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Messages from July 97 Messages from August 97 Messages from September 97 Messages from October 97 Messages from November 97 Messages from December 97 Date: Thu, 1 Jan 1998 16:07:50 -0500 To: daugava@nothnbut.net From: a.ghosh@utoronto.ca Subject: Re: Puch daugava@nothnbut.net wrote: > > ************************************************* > Date: Sun, 28 Dec 1997 20:55:12 EST > To: daugava@nothnbut.net > From: Huvz@aol.com > Subject: Re: Puch > > Jim, > Let me know where you are located, I can help you with parts. > I have a few PUCH parts bikes. I am in Ohio. Parts can be shipped. > As far as the rings go, you should be able to install them. All you have to > do is follow some easy instructions, and be careful, and gentle with the rings > as they go on. The worst thing that can happen is you may break one. > However, if a job shop would bead blast the piston to remove carbon, and > clean the ring grooves, and install the rings for a reasonable price, that > would be ok too. (expect to pay 25-50 dollars ?) > You would do well to find another clunmer like that one for spares. > Good luck. Let me know what used parts you may need. > Scott H well i think i've told evrybody now this, but the parts that i need for my 75 puch is that fuel switch, mine leaks, i need the left crank and the left crank nut bolt. the ones that i have are stripped of threads, and there's not enough material to re-thread them. Hey, one quick question, i'm a newbie to engines and mopeds and all, what are rings??? i've cleaned out the carbon and all. What should i do next. i'm looking around for a fuel switch, so i can test and to see if it starts. Date: Wed, 31 Dec 1997 10:57:09 -0800 (PST) To: Moped Mailing List Subject: Re: Whizzer > What I'm looking for is adapting a newer powerplant to Whizzer repro'd > peripherals (clutch, flywheel)--- I have designed an aluminum 3- litre tank > that fits inside a Schwinn cruiser frame and want to mate the bike up with > an appropriate 4-stroke powerplant. Do you know of any? Kumatsu's goped > won't fly being a 2-stroker and the 9k rpm power range isn't really suitable > for a bike like this. I need 2-3hp @ no more than 4500 rpm and under $220 > wholesale. > Any help you can provide is greatly appreciated. > > Thanx... Jack Briggs and Stratton and Tecumseh both make 3 HP engines that go for as little as $160 retail, from Northern. You do have to pay shipping and you have to watch the catalogs for the sales to come around. I don't know how sutable they are to your purpose but they are typical flat head, single cylinder, horizontal shaft lawn mower type engines, usually rated to make top power at 3600 rpm. Do you have a large, warehouse style hardware store near you (Home Base, Home Depot, Builder's Square etc)? I've seen small edgers and tillers with 3 HP horizontal shaft engines sell for $190-$250. You might be able to make use of the pulleys and stuff off of the tiller. -Dave Date: Wed, 31 Dec 1997 11:02:08 -0800 (PST) To: Moped Mailing List Subject: Re: Cream of the crop - revisited > I am learning that in Europe especially, that pedals are not required for a > bike to be considered a MOPED. In the USA, however, their not a moped without > them. > #1 is my assumption correct about pedals vs. no pedals > Thanks > Scott H. It depends on the state. Washington has a "Moped/Noped law" that treats any motorized cycle of 50cc or less and 3 HP or less as you'd expect a moped to be treated- cheap registration, no insurance required and no special license endorsement. I've read other postings from list members in other states that indicate that the pedals are required in their state. -Dave Date: Wed, 31 Dec 1997 11:07:18 -0800 (PST) To: Moped Mailing List Subject: Re: Whizzer parts > > My interest now is designing/building a retro-looking modern motorized bike. > I plan on working the bugs out of an initial prototype and then knocking out > 10 at a time using Schwinn cruiser bikes. My only hang up is the engines... > and I'm not even trying to get an authentic Whizzer look (which apparently > the new repro Whizzers didn't even accomplish really all that well). Hope to > hear from you! > > Jack > Aurora, Colorado A recent motorcycle magazine I read had a small article about an outfit in california that was putting 10HP briggs and stratton engines on a beacjh cruiser type frame!!! I wonder if the bicycle and running gear are up to the 60 mph speeds that it ought to be able to go! Yee Haw!!! -Dave Date: Wed, 31 Dec 1997 11:09:08 -0800 (PST) To: Moped Mailing List Subject: Re: 70cc bore kit experiences Greg, thanks for posting the TBOs for the airplane engines. It's off topic but I was curious to know. -Dave Date: Wed, 31 Dec 1997 15:15:52 EST To: daugava@nothnbut.net From: Huvz@aol.com Subject: Re: rear brake light myth. I have a vespa Grande, where this is the case. True in some cases. Scott H Date: Wed, 31 Dec 1997 15:29:05 EST To: daugava@nothnbut.net From: Huvz@aol.com Subject: Re: Motobecane contact Steve's Moped in NJ. mopedmoped@aol.com Good Luck! Scott H Date: Wed, 31 Dec 1997 15:28:14 EST To: daugava@nothnbut.net From: Huvz@aol.com Subject: Re: 70cc bore kit experiences My experience in trading small bikes, scooteres, and mopeds, tell me that at 1,500 miles or less the bikes tend to be in relatively good condition, and still have some power. At 2,000-3,000 miles it could go eitherway. Depending on how the bikes were treated, they could be good runner with some sign of wear (power loss), or a bike in need of rebuild. AT 4,000 miles plus - I figure it as a "hi-miler", and usually always are in need of rebuild, and cosmetic work as well. These bikes are usually missing parts, like side covers, etc. I rarely see these small bikes here in "cold weather" territory with more than 5,000 miles. ( Takes alot of summers to go 5,000 on one, we have 3-4 months of good riding weather here in summer) Hope this info proves helpful to you, Scott H Date: Wed, 31 Dec 1997 18:46:51 -0500 To: daugava@nothnbut.net From: 6828t@bright.net Subject: Re: Ohio licencing That is NOHIO for you!!!!!!! They take all they can get daugava@nothnbut.net wrote: > ************************************************* > Date: Sat, 27 Dec 1997 12:49:02 EST > To: daugava@nothnbut.net > From: ACassin105@aol.com > Subject: Re: Ohio licencing > > ive had my moped license in ohio for about two years they sure do make it a > hassle to get a license though .I pay about 200 dollers a year insurance for > full coverage on my targa lx Date: Thu, 1 Jan 1998 04:06:19 +0100 To: Subject: Re: Tomos Targa LX 70cc bore kit experiences -----Oorspronkelijk bericht----- Van: daugava@nothnbut.net Onderwerp: Re: Tomos Targa LX 70cc bore kit experiences >************************************************* >Date: Sat, 27 Dec 1997 13:43:12 EST >To: daugava@nothnbut.net >From: ACassin105@aol.com >Subject: Re: Tomos Targa LX 70cc bore kit experiences > > >lots of us pay the out ragious prices cause we love our moped so much > > > it is just like going to the circus, you have to pay for the ride... but did you wanna miss it ? Peter. Date: Thu, 1 Jan 1998 04:08:50 +0100 To: Subject: Re: moped leak -----Oorspronkelijk bericht----- Van: daugava@nothnbut.net Onderwerp: moped leak Help! I have a 1970 mobylette moped that has a gas leak. Gas enters the = carburetor and than leaks out. Does anyone know how to fix it. Thanks. = Nick Mirus =20 This sounds like a floater problem, check and clean your carb, floater room and floater. put it back together and see if it is over. Peter. Date: Thu, 1 Jan 1998 04:11:05 +0100 To: Subject: Re: Cream of the crop - revisited -----Oorspronkelijk bericht----- Van: daugava@nothnbut.net Onderwerp: Cream of the crop - revisited >************************************************* >Date: Sun, 28 Dec 1997 10:09:16 EST >To: daugava@nothnbut.net >From: Huvz@aol.com >Subject: Cream of the crop - revisited > > > A few weeks ago I posted a message asking what were the most desiradle, >durable, best selling mopeds. > I had a reply citing that the Honda 4-stroke mopeds were (to some) best. > I would like to narrow the scope of this question a bit. When I refer to >moped, I mean the kind that have PEDALS. When I looked at the web site on 4 >stroke honda mopeds, I found non-padal bearing bikes. > I am learning that in Europe especially, that pedals are not required for a >bike to be considered a MOPED. In the USA, however, their not a moped without >them. > #1 is my assumption correct about pedals vs. no pedals yep > #2 What would be considered "cream of the crop" in the MOPED WITH PEDALS Tomos >category. > Thanks > Scott H. > > > Bye, Peter Staal ---------------------------------------------------------------------- Email: staal@concepts.nl Home: http://home.concepts.nl/~staal ---------------------------------------------------------------------- Date: Thu, 01 Jan 1998 01:58:33 -0400 (EDT) To: <199712310355.VAA26310@mail.valuenet.net> From: mtliu@ccmail.sunysb.edu Subject: Re: 70cc bore kit experiences this subject is getting off the subject... I installed a 70cc kit in a PUCH 2-speed... max speed is now 45 mph accelleration rocks mileage is down to about 90 mpg from 150 mpg all thanks to andover cycles at andover@aol.com talk to Lance: its less than $400 for head/piston/biturbo and carb Thanks Lance! Michael Liu Date: Thu, 01 Jan 1998 02:00:32 -0400 (EDT) To: <199712310404.WAA26603@mail.valuenet.net> From: mtliu@ccmail.sunysb.edu Subject: Re: What would be considered "cream of the crop" >TOMOS WHat about the clutches i TOMOS? O welcom,e comments from dealers! Michael Liu On Tue, 30 Dec 1997 daugava@nothnbut.net wrote: > ************************************************* > Date: Sat, 27 Dec 1997 12:59:18 EST > To: daugava@nothnbut.net > From: ACassin105@aol.com > Subject: Re: What would be considered "cream of the crop" >TOMOS > > > Id have to say TOMOS because of there such high ranking in sales and everybody > knows the Tomos differance .THey were the ones who brought mopeds into the new > era from mopeds that couldnt make it up a hill and barly tapped 30 on the > spedo.Now they can blast out of sight and are robbed of horse power by the > american emission laws.But if you modify thell never know. > > > Date: Thu, 01 Jan 1998 02:01:36 -0400 (EDT) To: <199712310410.WAA26802@mail.valuenet.net> From: mtliu@ccmail.sunysb.edu Subject: Re: Puch If you need PUCH parts and are in the metro NYC, I got them cheap. Michael Liu Date: Thu, 1 Jan 1998 11:52:43 -0700 (MST) To: Subject: Re: 70cc bore kit experiences >************************************************* >Date: Wed, 24 Dec 1997 13:23:25 -0800 >To: daugava@nothnbut.net >From: proof@idt.net >Subject: Re: 70cc bore kit experiences > > >daugava@nothnbut.net wrote: >> >> ************************************************* >> Date: Wed, 24 Dec 1997 15:26:59 EST >> To: daugava@nothnbut.net >> From: AaronM428@aol.com >> Subject: Re: 70cc bore kit experiences >> >> In a message dated 97-12-24 14:59:06 EST, you write: >> >> << OK i'm sorry for being a pain in the ass about this cost thing. I am >> merely pursuing this out of my own obsession with cost compared with >> other modes of transport the way other people on here talk about the >> minutia of tuning. I am a new moped owner and was trying to get a general >> picture of what other people's long term cost have been. In your other >> message to me about costs you concluded that you spent between 11 cents >> and 30 something cents per mile on your 2 mopeds. Sorry, that is NOT >> cheaper than mass transit. It is cheaper than a car up to about 30 cents. >> Thank you for your patience. >> >> >> The only money that I have put into my Targa LX was for gas (maybe $5, >> probably less) oil ($10) and tranny fluid ($5) in 500+ miles. And I haven't >> used all the oil, my oil costs will go down because I stopped using synthetic. >> If I assume 6,000 miles total, then it costs about 23.5 cents per mile. (3.5 >> cents if you don't count initial cost) > > >Ok yes my experience on my targa has been the same. The only other thing >i had was one burned out turn signal bulb. Ok i hope you get alot more >than 6000 miles cuz 23.5 cents per mile is not exactly cheap transport. > >Curious: Why did you stop using synthetic oil? > > >Once you start using synthetic, it's not a good idea to change back!!! Also never use additives in synthetic oil (slick 50, etc.). I think you've committed yourself to synthetics until your next rebuild (which, if you change back, will be sooner rather than later). Jack. Date: Thu, 1 Jan 1998 11:56:29 -0700 (MST) To: Subject: Re: Vintage Motor Bike Club >************************************************* >Date: Fri, 26 Dec 1997 12:17:05 -0800 >To: >Subject: Vintage Motor Bike Club > > >Hello, just wanted to join your moped mailing list and to tell you what a >nice job you've done with your page and how much I enjoy reading it. Also >if you are the person that writes the Moped Magazine I would appreciate it >if you could complete your list of spark plug applications. Keep up the >good work and if you attend the Vintage Motor Bike Club annual meet I would >enjoy meeting you and talking mopeds and scooters. I live about 40 minutes >from Portland, IN. > >Thanks, >Pat Jones >jonesp@netusa1.net > > Ain't here anyone about whose got a Cushman, Marmon, Whizzer, Powell, Mustang, or Salsbury???? All this yammering about mopeds... yeesh. Anyone whose ever ridden a nice Cushman Eagle wouldn't ever be satisfied with a moped, and they don't depreciate! Date: Thu, 01 Jan 1998 14:10:16 -0500 To: laurinj@videotron.ca From: laurinj@videotron.ca Subject: Re: Motobecane daugava@nothnbut.net wrote: > > ************************************************* > Date: Thu, 25 Dec 1997 09:56:27 -0800 > To: scone@sk.sympatico.ca > From: scone@sk.sympatico.ca > Subject: Motobecane > > I am looking for a set of standard rings for what I think is a > 1970 49cc Type 4 .Can anyone help? > Scott Cone > scone@sk.sympatico.ca Hello, I have a few parts here in Montréal(QC) if you could just give me the serial number of your bike I could help you with those parts Bye Jean-Sébastien Laurin webmaster, le site web de la mob http://pages.infinit.net/moby Date: 31 Dec 96 19:56:27 +0000 To: daugava@nothnbut.net From: Zac_Beeston@254-62-17.trak-one.co.uk Subject: Cream of the crop - revisited Hi! I'm not sure about the rest of Europe but here in the UK the DVLA consider mopeds to be "motorcycles which: * cannot go faster than 50km/h * must not have an engine over 50cc * can be moved by pedals, if the moped was used before 1 August 1977." I've also never seen a moped with pedels! hth! Zac www.merseyworld.com/imagine/ d> I am learning that in Europe especially, that pedals are not d> required for a d> bike to be considered a MOPED. In the USA, however, their not d> a moped without them. d> #1 is my assumption correct about pedals vs. no pedals d> #2 What would be considered "cream of the crop" in the MOPED WITH PEDALS d> category. d> Thanks d> Scott H. -- |Fidonet : Zac.Beeston 2:254/62.17 |Internet: Zac_Beeston@254-62-17.trak-one.co.uk | | Via the TRAK-ONE! BBS Fidonet <-> Internet Gateway at 2:254/60 | See http://www.trak-one.co.uk for further information. | Standard disclaimer: The views of this user are strictly his/her own. # # Date: Fri, 02 Jan 1998 13:27:43 -0500 To: daugava@nothnbut.net From: 6828t@bright.net Subject: Re: 70cc bore kit experiences chain saws and lawn mowers have a force air system on them, Have fins build on the flywheel that force the air over the cooling fins on the cylinder to help cool the engine. Now I don't know way mopeds don't us the same design. Iguess that they figure that you won't be setting still or have to ride at a slow speed for very long. daugava@nothnbut.net wrote: > ************************************************* > Date: Wed, 24 Dec 1997 13:15:48 -0800 > To: daugava@nothnbut.net > From: proof@idt.net > Subject: Re: 70cc bore kit experiences > > daugava@nothnbut.net wrote: > > > > ************************************************* > > Date: Tue, 23 Dec 1997 20:48:09 -0800 (PST) > > To: Moped Mailing List > > Subject: Re: 70cc bore kit experiences > > > > On Tue, 23 Dec 1997 daugava@nothnbut.net wrote: > > > > > > > > What I am trying to determine here is whether the moped is in fact a > > > false economy. Can someone please tell me how many miles or kms i can > > > expect out of my moped? I have asked many people and no one will give me > > > a straight answer. To say that i might hit a car tomorrow and total the > > > moped is an irrelevant comment. I am interested in generalities here. > > > > No manufacturer of any transportation that I know of will quote a number > > of miles that engine should last. The closest thing that I've seen are > > figures that quote mean time to overhaul. For stationary engines, I've > > seen 1500 hours mean time between overhaul quoted. For a car engine that > > equals about 90000 miles at 60 miles an hour. The FAA requires periodic > > teardowns of aircraft piston engines at 1000 hours (?) I think. > > Two strokes that are used in scooters and motorcycles are fairly high > > maintenance. THey coke up because of the 2 stroke oil, they need freqeunt > > tune ups, they often suffer from neglect, they are sensitive to jetting > > and can be seizure prone if the jetting is off or if air seals leak(from > > age). If used at high rpm, the rings wear quickly. The benefits of the 2 > > stroke are that they are cheap, make good horsepower for the size of the > > engine, they are simple and easy to maintain, rebuilds are cheap. They > > actually tend to get poor fuel efficiency but because the engine > > and bike are so small, fuel costs are pretty low. > > It's impossible to predict the life of the engine. Even if you > > can find a manufacturers quoted mean time between overhaul, your engine > > might fall significantly above or below the mean. Production tolerances > > prevent the engines from being exactly the same and the manufacturer has > > little control over the end use. The only thing you can do is to take care > > of your engine so that it lasts as long as possible. > > > > -Dave > > Ok, i see. you say that rebuild of a 50 cc engine is cheap - around how > cheap. I know you cant give me an exact figure or anything. What i was > hoping to find were people who had actually run their peds for many tens > of thousands of miles. > > The other reason that i was surprised that a moped engine needed to be > rebuilt after 13000 miles is that I have observed lawn mower and chain > saw engines lasting forever. I believe that these are the same type of > engines as on mopeds, no? And a lawn mower engine hardly gets any cooling > i would think. My brother has a lawn mower from the early 70s (sears). > It's still chugging. Date: Sat, 3 Jan 1998 16:50:40 -0500 To: Moped Subject: oil+gas. hi, ya i know i have to add in a mixture of gasoline and oil. I went to the local Canadian Tire to get some, on the moped it says to get "Two Stroke or Engine Oil sae 30-50". At Canadian Tire they got 2 bottles of engine oil. One is Engine Oil 30, the other is 50. What is the moped trying to tell me? that i can use 30 OR 50, or like a special kind called 30-50 sorta like 10w-30??? Or does it mean i can use between 30 and 50? so like a 40 will do? as you can see i'm pretty dumb, so can one of you point me in the direction of what to buy. Thanks. -- Alok from Toronto. Date: Fri, 2 Jan 1998 14:17:16 EST To: daugava@nothnbut.net From: AaronM428@aol.com Subject: Re: 70cc bore kit experiences In a message dated 97-12-30 23:00:02 EST, you write: << My brother has a lawn mower from the early 70s (sears). It's still chugging. >> 2-cycle or 4-cycle? We have a Simplicity "garden tractor" from '78 that still runs fine, (except that the carb screws are a little loose (original carb)), but it is 4-cycle. I don't have much experience with engines, but I would think that the reed valve would be rather fragile and not last alltogether too long. Date: Fri, 2 Jan 1998 14:30:43 EST To: daugava@nothnbut.net From: AaronM428@aol.com Subject: Re: rear brake light myth. In a message dated 97-12-30 23:06:02 EST, you write: << eh, i herd that if the rear brake light is out, it won't start because its part of the circuit. Is this true?? >> This is only true on mopeds where the rear brake light is part of the circuit. Really it depends on the moped, some have the bulb in the ignition circuit, some don't. Date: Fri, 2 Jan 1998 14:23:23 EST To: daugava@nothnbut.net From: AaronM428@aol.com Subject: Re: 70cc bore kit experiences In a message dated 97-12-30 23:01:04 EST, you write: << Curious: Why did you stop using synthetic oil?>> Why start? First of all, good quality non-synthetic is $4 for 16oz, synthetic blend $4 for 8oz, full synthetic $5 for 8oz. Also, the engine does not smoke regardless of what type of oil is used, at least mine doesn't. Lastly I have never heard of verifyable (SP?) tests provong that synthetic is better for the engine than, here's the key, GOOD QUALITY "natural" oil. Date: Fri, 2 Jan 1998 19:00:06 EST To: daugava@nothnbut.net From: Jerky181@aol.com Subject: Kinetic TFR The other day I saw a Kinetic TFR at a local BJ's for about $500.00. I was wondering if anyone has had any experience with this type of moped, such as how fast it goes, how many mpg it gets, it's reliability, etc. Thanks for any information. Date: Fri, 2 Jan 1998 20:38:45 EST To: daugava@nothnbut.net From: SUPRDAVE@aol.com Subject: Re: 70cc bore kit experiences In a message dated 98-01-02 20:26:31 EST, you write: << Wow you are in NC? I am in nj and i have to go down there soon for a wedding. If it weren't the middle of January, I would ride my ped down and make a nice tour out of it. How is the riding down there? I guess i will just take the train (my other favorite mode of transport). Hey do you know anyplace that rents peds in Raleigh? >> the riding is ok. there are plenty of places to ride althoughi have gone on the busier streets though. i plan to ride downtown when its warm since there are plenty of neat stores downtown. there are greenways, but mopeds and dirt bikes cant go on them. not many mopeds around here. i did see two up on a tiny scooter a while back, but they were gone before i could get mine fired up so i could chase them down. Date: Fri, 2 Jan 1998 21:37:47 EST To: daugava@nothnbut.net From: SUPRDAVE@aol.com Subject: when is it time to rebuild? with all this discussion about rebuilding etc, i'd like to know when is the right time to do it. right now i've got a QT50 with 1370 miles and runs great. i also have an aero 50 scooter with 8500 miles that runs just as good. i havent done a thing to the aero for two years besides replacing the battery. i know it might need a drive belt before it breaks and the motor doesnt make any strange noises and starts with a little help from ether when its cold in the winter since the auto choke doesnt work. is it really time to rebuild? i hate to tear it apart since it's working, so what does one look for when a motor says "its time for an overhaul"? david Date: Fri, 02 Jan 1998 20:51:37 -0600 (CST) To: cyclepro@evansville.net From: cyclepro@evansville.net Subject: Re: Tomos Targa LX 70cc bore kit experiences On Fri, 2 Jan, daugava@nothnbut.net wrote... >************************************************* >Date: Tue, 30 Dec 1997 23:28:11 -0800 (PST) >To: Moped Mailing List >Subject: Re: Tomos Targa LX 70cc bore kit experiences > > > >> >> I AM CURIOUS AS TO WHAT YOU FEEL IS A LONG TIME. I HAVE A CUSTOMER THAT >> BOUGHT A HONDA ELITE FROM THE LOCAL HONDA DEALER. HE RIDES THE DEVIL OUT OF >> IT. 8000 MILES IN 2 YEARS. HE HAS HAD THREE TOP END OVERHAULS AND IS NOW >> READY FOR A MAJOR OVERHAUL BECAUSE THE ROD IS KNOCKING AT THE CRANK. THIS >> IS PRETTY TYPICAL FOR THESE SMALL LOWER PRICED MACHINES IN THE USA. >> ..........................REGARDS, GREG > >Beats me. Top end overhauls are pretty normal for two stroke cycle type >engines. You do say that he "rides the devil" out of it. I've seen that a >lot of these bikes suffer a lot of neglect or abuse from their owners. >How long do you think they ought to last? I'll admit that I haven't worn >my Kasea out- it's treated like a typical US ped, a few hundred miles a >year. > >-Dave > > > FROM AN ENGINEERING STAND POINT SMALL 2 cycle ENGINES ARE THEORETICALLY DESIGNED FOR A 500HR TIME BETWEEN MAJOR OVERHAUL WITH TOP ENDS GIVING 75 TO 125 HRS. OF SERVICE PROVIDED THEY ARE TREATED WELL. I KNOW THAT HIGHER QUALITY EUROPEAN UNITS DO CONSIDERABLY BETTER THAN THIS AND THAT SOME OTHERS DO MUCH WORSE. I AM THINKING OF THE PROMOTIONAL WEED WHACKERS THAT WALMART & K-MART SELL. I'VE SEEN SOME THAT DON'T GO 10 HRS. SEE YA.....GREG BUT ATLEAST 10 YEARS AGO I OVERHAULED A LAWNBOY FOR A NEIGHBOR HOOD BOY THAT CUT 50+ YARDS A WEEK. HE STILL CUT JUST AS MANY YARDS HE HAS BEEN THROUGH MANY OTHER BACKUP MOWERS BUT HE SAYS THAT THE LAWNBOY IS HIS PRIMARY AND IT IS STILL DELIVERING. HE CLAIMS THAT IT HASN"T HAD ANY MAJOR WORK SINCE I OVERHAULD IT......UNBELIEVEABLE HUH? IF PEOPLE WILL USE A LITTLE COMMON SENCE, RESECT THEIR INVESTMENT AND REALLY TAKE CARE OF THE EQUIPMENT, TRY TO TREAT IT LIKE A FINE WATCH, THEY USUALLY GET GOOD SERVICE FROM THEIR MACHINERY. I HAVEN'T HAD ANY MACHINERY THAT DIDN'T LIVE UP TO MY EXPECTATIONS AN I USUALLY ASK THEM FOR 110% OF THE PERFORMANCE THEY WERE DESIGNED TO GIVE. Date: Fri, 02 Jan 1998 22:25:40 -0500 To: daugava@nothnbut.net From: paltron@interlog.com Subject: Re: Vintage Motor Bike Club daugava@nothnbut.net wrote: > > ************************************************* > Date: Thu, 1 Jan 1998 11:56:29 -0700 (MST) > To: > Subject: Re: Vintage Motor Bike Club > > >************************************************* > >Date: Fri, 26 Dec 1997 12:17:05 -0800 > >To: > >Subject: Vintage Motor Bike Club > > > > > >Hello, just wanted to join your moped mailing list and to tell you what a > >nice job you've done with your page and how much I enjoy reading it. Also > >if you are the person that writes the Moped Magazine I would appreciate it > >if you could complete your list of spark plug applications. Keep up the > >good work and if you attend the Vintage Motor Bike Club annual meet I would > >enjoy meeting you and talking mopeds and scooters. I live about 40 minutes > >from Portland, IN. > > > >Thanks, > >Pat Jones > >jonesp@netusa1.net > > > > > Ain't here anyone about whose got a Cushman, Marmon, Whizzer, Powell, > Mustang, or Salsbury???? All this yammering about mopeds... yeesh. Anyone > whose ever ridden a nice Cushman Eagle wouldn't ever be satisfied with a > moped, and they don't depreciate! If you don't like mopeds, you're welcome to take your opinions elsewhere. There are several scooter lists you can join, this is not one of them. Date: Sun, 4 Jan 1998 02:04:20 -0500 To: daugava@nothnbut.net From: a.ghosh@utoronto.ca Subject: Re: rear brake light myth. daugava@nothnbut.net wrote: > > ************************************************* > Date: Fri, 2 Jan 1998 14:30:43 EST > To: daugava@nothnbut.net > From: AaronM428@aol.com > Subject: Re: rear brake light myth. > > In a message dated 97-12-30 23:06:02 EST, you write: > > << eh, i herd that if the rear brake light is out, it won't start because its > part > of the circuit. Is this true?? >> > > This is only true on mopeds where the rear brake light is part of the circuit. > Really it depends on the moped, some have the bulb in the ignition circuit, > some don't. ya, i know that. But which do, and which do not? is there any way of finding out??? a reason i came accross on my my moped won't start is because it is being grounded, even though the shut off switch is like taken apart. Date: Fri, 02 Jan 1998 22:36:42 -0600 (CST) To: cyclepro@evansville.net From: cyclepro@evansville.net Subject: Re: 70cc bore kit experiences I think I detect I may have hit a nerve with my "BEAN COUNTER" comment. I apologise, sometimes but sometimes I just can't help myself.....The DEVIL made me do it! Now about getting the most bang for the buck out of various modes of transportation...As you are finding out it is a very complex question. To really make any sound judgments we have to look at allot of factors. When you take a scientific approach to it the results can be surprising. I use to do this with airplanes on a professional basis, when I operated an executive air charter company. Safety, Time saving, The value of your time, Reliability, Where you go, flexibility, Prestige, Schedule......I've used to justify just about anything you can think of to justify some really pricey rides. You don't get to join the "HIGH DIDDLE DIDDLE CLUB" on too many airlines but you could join on any flight I ran if you’d let me know that is what you wanted. So what I am saying is it comes down to how you like to spend your money. As to scooters....a pretty generic term but to me a real scooter is a step-through design with an enclosed engine. They can be very stylish and they generally have greater range, speed, capacity, reliability and comfort. I have customer, a young lady that recently lucked into finding a 1985 Honda 125cc ELITE with only 400 miles on it. This is a 4cycle water cooled machine. She was able to buy it for just $500. It looked like a brand new machine. However she noticed right after that the oil warning light and stayed on and it would get hot if she was going very far. There were problems with both the oil and water pump and her bill ran almost $400 for repairs. Luckily she brought it in before any damage resulted to the cylinder or crank. She is getting some unique, practical and hopefully over the long run economical transportation. This thing has several unusual and neat features that I didn't expect to find on this type vehicle. I had a Honda Helix 4cycle 250cc that I rode for a summer. Great machine, again lots of nice features. It would run 65 to 70 mph but got a little loose out there. It had 28,000 trouble free miles on when I sold it....but I do believe I gotten most of what it was going to give without some trouble. I got all my money back out of it plus a little boot. I had a ZUNDAP BELLA 250cc about 35 years ago I’d give my right Koohonii to have again. Another really extraordinary machine. I felt like I was riding a MAGIC CARPET when I was on it. HOPE THIS MAY HELP YOU MAKE A LITTLE MORE SENSE OF THINGS....GREG On Fri, 2 Jan, daugava@nothnbut.net wrote... >************************************************* >Date: Tue, 30 Dec 1997 21:57:45 -0800 >To: daugava@nothnbut.net >From: proof@idt.net >Subject: Re: 70cc bore kit experiences > > >daugava@nothnbut.net wrote: >> >> ************************************************* >> Date: Thu, 25 Dec 1997 14:24:56 -0600 (CST) >> To: cyclepro@evansville.net >> From: cyclepro@evansville.net >> Subject: Re: 70cc bore kit experiences >> >> On Wed, 24 Dec, daugava@nothnbut.net wrote... >> >*************************************************=0D >> >Date: Tue, 23 Dec 1997 22:12:20 -0800 >> >To: daugava@nothnbut.net >> >From: proof@idt.net >> >Subject: Re: 70cc bore kit experiences >> > >> > >> >daugava@nothnbut.net wrote: >> >> >> >> ************************************************* >> >> Date: Wed, 24 Dec 1997 01:26:46 +0100 >> >> To: >> >> Subject: Re: 70cc bore kit experiences >> >> >> >> -----Oorspronkelijk bericht----- >> >> Van: daugava@nothnbut.net >> >> Onderwerp: Re: 70cc bore kit experiences >> >> >> >> ************************************************* >> >> Date: Mon, 22 Dec 1997 04:29:13 -0800 >> >> To: daugava@nothnbut.net >> >> From: proof@idt.net >> >> Subject: Re: 70cc bore kit experiences >> >> >> >> > Also - do scooters use a different engine design? Do they last longer= >> >? >> >> Just >> >> > what is the difference between a scooter and a moped anyway - i dont = >> >get >> >> why >> >> > people make >> >> > such a big distinction - even people who know nothing at all about >> >> scooters >> >> > or mopeds. >> >> > >> >> > *you really didn't get it =E9 >> >> > >> >> > Bye, Peter Staal >> >> >> >> ok i don't get what you mean by your comment - "you really dont get it >> >> e?" >> >> >> >> What I am trying to determine here is whether the moped is in fact a >> >> false economy. Can someone please tell me how many miles or kms i can >> >> expect out of my moped? I have asked many people and no one will give = >> >me >> >> a straight answer. To say that i might hit a car tomorrow and total the >> >> moped is an irrelevant comment. I am interested in generalities here. >> >> >> >> What answer do you want ? >> >> it seen you want THE answer that says yes or no to some thing you have = >> >in >> >> mind, >> >> and a real answer ain't out there :) . >> >> in the tomos manual (the service bible) also on one of my pages it says >> >> about a partial checkup at 500, 1500, 3000, 6000, 9000 (a large one), 1= >> >2000, >> >> 15000,18000 total renovation almost, after renovation cycle starts agai= >> >n, >> >> how is that for an answer, no personal influence in it at all. >> >> I think you want some views to relativate you hunger for facts : >> >> >> >> do they cost money YES >> >> do they polute YES >> >> can they be stolen YES >> >> can you crash badly YES >> >> can you drive safe home every day YES >> >> can you beat the local speed limit YES >> >> does it take time for care YES >> >> does it safe time every second you sit on it YES >> >> does it safe money compared to a car YES >> >> does it save money compared to public transport YES >> >> does it prevent you from long walking YES (when running ;( ) >> >> any more suggestions out there ? >> >> >> >> Bye, Peter Staal >> >> ---------------------------------------------------------------------- >> >> Email: staal@concepts.nl >> >> Home: http://home.concepts.nl/~staal >> >> ---------------------------------------------------------------------- >> > >> > >> > >> >OK i'm sorry for being a pain in the ass about this cost thing. I am >> >merely pursuing this out of my own obsession with cost compared with >> >other modes of transport the way other people on here talk about the >> >minutia of tuning. I am a new moped owner and was trying to get a general= >> > >> >picture of what other people's long term cost have been. In your other >> >message to me about costs you concluded that you spent between 11 cents >> >and 30 something cents per mile on your 2 mopeds. Sorry, that is NOT >> >cheaper than mass transit. It is cheaper than a car up to about 30 cents.= >> > >> >Thank you for your patience. >> > >> > >> > >> YOU ARE NOT A PAIN IN THE ASS. THIS IS A VAID RELAVENT QUESTION >> Mass transit is intended to be the most economical means available and it >> low cost when all the seats are filled. Mass transit is usually subsidised >> by other revenue sources so that the total cost of operation isn't charged >> to the fare payer. BUT you are dependent on the bus & must sacrafice a >> certian amount of personal freedom of mobility. >> >> Mopeds are not an economical or practical solution for anyone having a >> substancial transportation requirement. But for providing short haul >> personal transportation they are great. A bicycle may also be an option >> here. >> >> If you are a "BEAN COUNTER" take the mass transit. Someone else is probably >> paying part of the cost. You won't have the risk of a premature failure, >> theft, or a crash. MOPEDS are FUN and give you FREEDOM, but if you are >> going to dance you got to pay the band. >> >> ......GREG DOUGAN > > > >Ok this is the typical double standard applied to mass transit. Yes, it is subsidized. >But so is the moped and of course the most subsidized of all is the car. Aviation is >heavily subsidized. Probably the most neglected modes are rail - both freight and >passenger. > >Ok no I am not a bean counter - i'm just commited to living a very cheap life style so >that I can spend the least possible time engaged in wage slavery. I live in an old silk >factory for probably 1/5 the rent of what anyone else i know pays. The beauty of the >moped and its appeal to me is in its smallness and apparent efficiency. I am just >dismayed to find that my image of them is not exactly true. > >Ok, is the problem here the fact that it's only a 50 cc engine? Would say an 80 cc >engine have a much better long term cost profile? How about a 4 stroke engine? > > > Date: Fri, 02 Jan 1998 22:42:19 -0600 (CST) To: cyclepro@evansville.net From: cyclepro@evansville.net Subject: Re: hello On Fri, 2 Jan, daugava@nothnbut.net wrote... >************************************************* >Date: Tue, 30 Dec 1997 22:03:05 -0800 >To: daugava@nothnbut.net >From: proof@idt.net >Subject: Re: hello > > >daugava@nothnbut.net wrote: >> >> ************************************************* >> Date: Sat, 27 Dec 1997 13:02:26 EST >> To: daugava@nothnbut.net >> From: ACassin105@aol.com >> Subject: Re: hello >> >> im 15 and ride a Targa Lx im almost 16 and when i bought my moped two years >> ago i was going to sell it when i was 16 to put in my car fund but now i dont >> think ill ever sell it > > >NO, dont get a car - and keep your ped. Cars are the route to financial slavery. Drive >to work/Work to drive. The day is soon coming when the ped and the scooter will once >again be THE coolest things to have - like Italy in the 50's or something. > > Right On....But at that age you really a back seat can come in really handy! Date: Fri, 2 Jan 1998 23:51:35 -0500 (EST) To: Moped Mailing List Subject: Re: Cream of the crop - revisited On Fri, 2 Jan 1998 twein@bright.net wrote: > Seems to vary by state. Ohio requires pedals, but Ky doesn't. I don't think most US states require pedals on mopeds anymore, though I'd love if anyone here has the stats on that currently. NY does not require pedals either. > Many people seems to classify a scooter and a moped as one and the same, > but they aren't alike at all. No offense, but they easily can be. People use the term "moped" for two entirely different things -- one is what has traditionally been a moped "style" and the other is whatever is legally a moped where you live. In most of the US and Europe now, most "mopeds" are 50cc scooters. This would include the Yamaha Razz and Jog, the Honda Elite SA50SR and the Kasea 50, among others. The Yamaha Zuma II, Honda Elite SA50 and Italjet Velocifero are NOT legally mopeds anywhere to my knowledge, since they are designed to exceed 30-35mph, which is the common cut-off point. ~ Danny ~ ~-~-~-~-~-~-~-~-~-~-~-~-~-~-~-~-~-~-~-~-~-~-~-~-~-~-~-~-~-~-~-~-~-~ syracuse ska!! Date: Fri, 02 Jan 1998 22:54:44 -0600 (CST) To: cyclepro@evansville.net From: cyclepro@evansville.net Subject: Re: rear brake light myth. On Fri, 2 Jan, daugava@nothnbut.net wrote... >************************************************* >Date: Wed, 31 Dec 1997 15:15:52 EST >To: daugava@nothnbut.net >From: Huvz@aol.com >Subject: Re: rear brake light myth. > > >I have a vespa Grande, where this is the case. >True in some cases. > Scott H SOMETIMES THE NUT ON THE HANDLEBAR WILL DO THAT TOO. Date: Fri, 2 Jan 1998 23:59:41 -0500 (EST) To: Moped Mailing List Subject: Re: Kinetic Peds On Fri, 2 Jan 1998 proof@idt.net wrote: > The kinetic also looked like it was solidly > built. The price was an incredible 700 dollars or something - i dont > remember exactly now. The basic Kasea 50 scooter/moped is now $900, so prices are *finally* falling again for this type of vehicle. And the Kasea uses a Suzuki engine that seems to be reliable. If I was hard-pressed for cash and wanted a new ped, I'd go that route ... ~ Danny ~ ~-~-~-~-~-~-~-~-~-~-~-~-~-~-~-~-~-~-~-~-~-~-~-~-~-~-~-~-~-~-~-~-~-~ syracuse ska!! Date: Fri, 02 Jan 1998 23:03:54 -0600 (CST) To: cyclepro@evansville.net From: cyclepro@evansville.net Subject: Re: Ohio licencing On Fri, 2 Jan, daugava@nothnbut.net wrote... >*************************************************=0D >Date: Wed, 31 Dec 1997 18:46:51 -0500 >To: daugava@nothnbut.net >From: 6828t@bright.net >Subject: Re: Ohio licencing > > >That is NOHIO for you!!!!!!! They take all they can get > >daugava@nothnbut.net wrote: > >> ************************************************* >> Date:=A0 Sat, 27 Dec 1997 12:49:02 EST >> To:=A0 daugava@nothnbut.net >> From: ACassin105@aol.com >> Subject:=A0 Re: Ohio licencing >> >> ive had my moped license in ohio for about two years they sure do make = >it a >> hassle to get a license though .I pay about 200 dollers a year insuranc= >e for >> full coverage on my targa lx > >=A0 > > Sounds like you should consider dropping the full coverage & go with Liability only. I renewed the liability insurance(PROGRESSIVE INSURANCE) on my harley $87.20 after a 12% AMA discount. I thought that was a little high. As far as full coverage I use SMITH & WESSON for that....GREG Date: Fri, 02 Jan 1998 23:12:33 -0600 (CST) To: cyclepro@evansville.net From: cyclepro@evansville.net Subject: Re: moped leak On Fri, 2 Jan, daugava@nothnbut.net wrote... >************************************************* >Date: Thu, 1 Jan 1998 04:08:50 +0100 >To: >Subject: Re: moped leak > > > >-----Oorspronkelijk bericht----- >Van: daugava@nothnbut.net >Onderwerp: moped leak > > > >Help! >I have a 1970 mobylette moped that has a gas leak. Gas enters the = >carburetor and than leaks out. Does anyone know how to fix it. Thanks. = >Nick Mirus >=20 > > >This sounds like a floater problem, check and clean your carb, floater room >and floater. put it back together and see if it is over. >Peter. > > > > PETER IS RIGHT, ALSO CHECK TO MAKE SURE IT WILL REALLY FLOAT AND CAREFULLY INSPECT THE FLOAT NEEDLE WITH YOUR FINGER NAIL. IF IT HAS EVEN THE SLIGHTEST GROVE IN IT, IN A PERFECT WORLD IT SHOULD BE REPLACED..........ALSO ANOTHER POSSIBILITY IS THE FLOAT MAY NEED TO BE ADJUSTED TO FLOAT AT THE CORRECT LEVEL.........GREG Date: Fri, 02 Jan 1998 23:38:25 -0600 (CST) To: cyclepro@evansville.net From: cyclepro@evansville.net Subject: Re: Cream of the crop - revisited WHEATER IT IS A MOPED OR NOT DEPENDS ON THE LAWS OF THE STATE YOU ARE IN. SOME STATES DO NOT REQUIRE YOU TO HAVE PEDALS TO BE CLASSIFIED A MOPED. KENTUCKY FOR ONE. IN KY THE REQUIREMENTS ARE: 30 MPH MAX NOT MORE THAN 2HP, OR 50cc FULLY AUTOMATIC TRANSMISSION. AN EASY WAY TO GET THE STRAIGHT SKINNY IS TO GO PICK UP A COPY OF THE DRIVERS LICENCE TRAINING HANDBOOK, USUALLY AVAILABLE WHERE THE DRIVERS TEST ARE GIVEN OR AT THE STATE TROOPER'S POST. I RECOMMEND THAT YOU READ THE LAW FOR YOURSELF, AS IT IS EASY TO BE MISINFORNED. BY READING THE MANUAL YOU WILL ALSO BE ABLE TO FIND OUT ABOUT EQUIPMENT REQUIREMENTS, HELMET LAW, HEADLIGHT OPERATION, RIDING DOUBLE, ETC. ALSO I FIND THAT SOME OF THE NEW RECURITS THAT "WILD BILL" HAS CHARGED WITH INFORCING THE LAW MAY NOT KNOW THE LAW EITHER AND YOU MAY HAVE TO POLLITELY EDUCATE THEM.........GREG DOUGAN On Fri, 2 Jan, daugava@nothnbut.net wrote... >************************************************* >Date: Thu, 1 Jan 1998 04:11:05 +0100 >To: >Subject: Re: Cream of the crop - revisited > > > >-----Oorspronkelijk bericht----- >Van: daugava@nothnbut.net >Onderwerp: Cream of the crop - revisited > > >>************************************************* >>Date: Sun, 28 Dec 1997 10:09:16 EST >>To: daugava@nothnbut.net >>From: Huvz@aol.com >>Subject: Cream of the crop - revisited >> >> >> A few weeks ago I posted a message asking what were the most desiradle, >>durable, best selling mopeds. >> I had a reply citing that the Honda 4-stroke mopeds were (to some) best. >> I would like to narrow the scope of this question a bit. When I refer to >>moped, I mean the kind that have PEDALS. When I looked at the web site on 4 >>stroke honda mopeds, I found non-padal bearing bikes. >> I am learning that in Europe especially, that pedals are not required for >a >>bike to be considered a MOPED. In the USA, however, their not a moped >without >>them. >> #1 is my assumption correct about pedals vs. no pedals > >yep > >> #2 What would be considered "cream of the crop" in the MOPED WITH PEDALS > >Tomos > >>category. >> Thanks >> Scott H. >> >> >> > Bye, Peter Staal >---------------------------------------------------------------------- > Email: staal@concepts.nl > Home: http://home.concepts.nl/~staal >---------------------------------------------------------------------- > > > Date: Sat, 03 Jan 1998 00:38:26 -0600 (CST) To: cyclepro@evansville.net From: cyclepro@evansville.net Subject: Re: Vintage Motor Bike Club On Fri, 2 Jan, daugava@nothnbut.net wrote... >************************************************* >Date: Thu, 1 Jan 1998 11:56:29 -0700 (MST) >To: >Subject: Re: Vintage Motor Bike Club > > >>************************************************* >>Date: Fri, 26 Dec 1997 12:17:05 -0800 >>To: >>Subject: Vintage Motor Bike Club >> >> >> >>...... Vintage Motor Bike Club annual meet I would enjoy meeting you and talking mopeds and scooters. I live about 40 minutes >>from Portland, IN. PAT........ WHERE AND WHEN IS THIS MEET??? >> >> >Ain't here anyone about whose got a Cushman, Marmon, Whizzer, Powell, >Mustang, or Salsbury???? All this yammering about mopeds... yeesh. Anyone >whose ever ridden a nice Cushman Eagle wouldn't ever be satisfied with a >moped, and they don't depreciate! ...................................BET YOU SELL YOSE CARS TOO! PAT.... MY 1st ride was a WWII CUSHMAN - It had a hitch on it for towing airplanes and a machine gun mount that had been turned into a BUDDY seat....THAT THING WAS BULLET PROOF! Weighed as much as a Harley Bagger too! Cushman, Whizzer, Mustang......KNOW WHERE THERE ARE ANY OF THESE PRICED RIGHT AND NOT TOO FAR AWAY??? I'd love to have one. I'am in Henderson, KY. "LAND OF THE FREE - HOME OF THE BRAVE" YOU know! I'am sure you've heard of it butwhere the heck is PORTLAND, IN. DO THEY MAKE CEMENT THERE? Marmon, Salsbury, Powell,.....THESE AREN'T REAL SCOOTERS ARE THEY? YOUR MAKEN THESE UP AREN'T YOU? .........................GREG DOUGAN Date: Fri, 02 Jan 1998 13:46:01 -0800 To: daugava@nothnbut.net From: proof@idt.net Subject: Re: 70cc bore kit experiences daugava@nothnbut.net wrote: > > ************************************************* > Date: Tue, 30 Dec 1997 23:19:00 -0800 (PST) > To: Moped Mailing List > Subject: Re: 70cc bore kit experiences > > > > > Ok, i see. you say that rebuild of a 50 cc engine is cheap - around how > > cheap. I know you cant give me an exact figure or anything. What i was > > hoping to find were people who had actually run their peds for many tens > > of thousands of miles. > 50 and 80 cc dirt bikes have pistons that cost between $35-80, typically. > Rings are another $20? A gasket set and a bore job is usually all that is > necessary. Often, the ring seal goes away and all you need is a set of > rings and a gasket set. If it's real high miles or you have a bad seizure > then a new piston and a cylinder bore will be necessary. If it's real bad, > you could need a new rod and/or bottom end bearings. Cost? Dirt bikers and > 2 stroke road racers get used to tearing down and re-ringing their engines > every couple of racing weekends- it takes them a couple of hours and a few > bucks. > > > > > The other reason that i was surprised that a moped engine needed to be > > rebuilt after 13000 miles is that I have observed lawn mower and chain > > saw engines lasting forever. I believe that these are the same type of > > engines as on mopeds, no? And a lawn mower engine hardly gets any cooling > > i would think. My brother has a lawn mower from the early 70s (sears). > > It's still chugging. > Those types of engines last for years but see very few hours of use. > If your brother mowed his lawn weekly, and it took him an hour to do it, > he would see 52 hours of use a year. If he bought it in 1970, he would > have 1400 hours on and it. That's not even at the 1500 hours mean time > before overhaul mark. If he's taken care of it, it could easily last a > lot longer. Mean time between overhaul is the AVERAGE time. Half of the > engines need overhaul sooner, half last longer. > Lawn mower and chain saw engines have built in cooling fans and > are usually cooled better than a typical moped set up. Long idle periods > or long periods of slow speed operation are bad for mopeds from a cooling > standpoint. > 13000 miles is a lot of miles on your typical moped in the US. > Most peds get used for a while after their owner gets it, then get garaged > after the owner moves up to a car or bike. > > -Dave you mean move down to a car. Ok yes you are right about the lawn mower times. I did not really think that through. Ok saw a moped engine rebuild is not that big a deal cost wise apparently. So after such a rebuild, it will last another 10k miles or so? Or is there a point at which it's not worth doing anymore? About the problem of heat buildup during idling: have you ever seen a retrofit of a fan hooked up to a moped like the tomos? Would such a fan significantly increase engine life? I believe most mopeds are being driven in "city" type riding - i.e., alot of idle time at lights. Date: Fri, 02 Jan 1998 13:48:51 -0800 To: daugava@nothnbut.net From: proof@idt.net Subject: Re: (no subject) daugava@nothnbut.net wrote: > > ************************************************* > Date: Wed, 31 Dec 1997 07:28:15 -0500 > To: halmc@talstar.com > From: halmc@talstar.com > Subject: (no subject) > > > Sorry, that is NOT > > cheaper than mass transit. > > Whether it's cheaper than mass transit depends on whether you assign any > value to your time. Mass transit gourges on your time, whereas the > moped merely nibbles. > > Harold No, that is not true at all. If you think about it, mass transit consumes no time whatsoever because you can always read/sleep/work. Most of us have all three of those to catch up on. So mass transit is infinately fast in that sense. Date: Fri, 02 Jan 1998 14:00:46 -0800 To: daugava@nothnbut.net From: proof@idt.net Subject: Re: What would be considered "cream of the crop" >TOMOS daugava@nothnbut.net wrote: > > ************************************************* > Date: Wed, 31 Dec 1997 10:45:13 -0500 > To: daugava@nothnbut.net > From: paltron@interlog.com > Subject: Re: What would be considered "cream of the crop" >TOMOS > > daugava@nothnbut.net wrote: > > > > ************************************************* > > Date: Sat, 27 Dec 1997 12:59:18 EST > > To: daugava@nothnbut.net > > From: ACassin105@aol.com > > Subject: Re: What would be considered "cream of the crop" >TOMOS > > > > Id have to say TOMOS because of there such high ranking in sales and everybody > > knows the Tomos differance .THey were the ones who brought mopeds into the new > > era from mopeds that couldnt make it up a hill and barly tapped 30 on the > > spedo.Now they can blast out of sight and are robbed of horse power by the > > american emission laws.But if you modify thell never know. > Sorry, but I have to disagree. My main beef against Tomos is the 2-speed > tranny they use which has failed pretty miserably on all other makes, > Jawa, Puch, etc. Not that it doesn't work (although in Jawa's case it > often didn't) but it doesn't shift down when you need more torque and > fast (such as climbing a hill or accelerating to pass). The > variator-type belt-driven autoamtics are more sensitive, more reliable > and the adjustment is instantaneous. This system is used now on most > modern scooters as well, all the way up to 200cc. So my vote goes to > (we're taling classics) Piaggio Si, Peugeot 103 and Mobylette 50V. The > Si is by far the most comfortable moped I've ever ridden; Peugeot is the > fastest (I have a 1971 original now and it does close to 60 kmh without > any modifications that's 45mph) and the Moby is the easiest to start and > ride as a bicycle. > Happy New Year everyone. Yeah fine Piaggio is great but you can't buy a new one here in the US so it's kind of irrelevant. Just what is Piaggio's problem if a rinky dink outfit like tomos can sell here? Tomos is here and they seem to be here to stay - you can get parts/service fairly easily. That's arguably as important as the design/quality. Date: Fri, 02 Jan 1998 14:08:51 -0800 To: daugava@nothnbut.net From: proof@idt.net Subject: Re: 70cc bore kit experiences daugava@nothnbut.net wrote: > > ************************************************* > Date: Wed, 31 Dec 1997 15:28:14 EST > To: daugava@nothnbut.net > From: Huvz@aol.com > Subject: Re: 70cc bore kit experiences > > My experience in trading small bikes, scooteres, and mopeds, tell me > that at 1,500 miles or less the bikes tend to be in relatively good > condition, and still have some power. > At 2,000-3,000 miles it could go eitherway. Depending on how the bikes were > treated, they could be good runner with some sign of wear (power loss), or a > bike in need of rebuild. > AT 4,000 miles plus - I figure it as a "hi-miler", and usually always are in > need of rebuild, and cosmetic work as well. These bikes are usually missing > parts, like side covers, etc. > I rarely see these small bikes here in "cold weather" territory with more > than 5,000 miles. ( Takes alot of summers to go 5,000 on one, we have 3-4 > months of good riding weather here in summer) > Hope this info proves helpful to you, > Scott H yes, thanks, very disturbing. But i was just reading about a guy who is soon to go around the world on his vespa scooter. I think it's a 125 cc So I guess what i need is a bigger engine?? Do they last longer? Date: Fri, 02 Jan 1998 14:12:25 -0800 To: daugava@nothnbut.net From: proof@idt.net Subject: Re: 70cc bore kit experiences daugava@nothnbut.net wrote: > > ************************************************* > Date: Thu, 01 Jan 1998 01:58:33 -0400 (EDT) > To: <199712310355.VAA26310@mail.valuenet.net> > From: mtliu@ccmail.sunysb.edu > Subject: Re: 70cc bore kit experiences > > this > subject is getting off the subject... > I installed a 70cc kit in a PUCH 2-speed... > max speed is now 45 mph > accelleration rocks > mileage is down to about 90 mpg from 150 mpg > > all thanks to andover cycles at andover@aol.com > > talk to Lance: its less than $400 for head/piston/biturbo and carb > > Thanks Lance! > > Michael Liu ok yes the 70 cc thing was getting out of hand. i apologize. i started it. ok yes the acceleration is what i am most interested in. i think i will do it. i am pretty convinced from reading the posts on here. thanks Date: Fri, 02 Jan 1998 14:15:50 -0800 To: daugava@nothnbut.net From: proof@idt.net Subject: Re: 70cc bore kit experiences daugava@nothnbut.net wrote: > > ************************************************* > Date: Fri, 02 Jan 1998 13:27:43 -0500 > To: daugava@nothnbut.net > From: 6828t@bright.net > Subject: Re: 70cc bore kit experiences > > chain saws and lawn mowers have a force air system on them, Have fins build on > the flywheel that force the air over the cooling fins on the cylinder to help > cool the engine. Now I don't know way mopeds don't us the same design. Iguess > that they figure that you won't be setting still or have to ride at a slow speed > for very long. > > daugava@nothnbut.net wrote: > > > ************************************************* > > Date: Wed, 24 Dec 1997 13:15:48 -0800 > > To: daugava@nothnbut.net > > From: proof@idt.net > > Subject: Re: 70cc bore kit experiences > > > > daugava@nothnbut.net wrote: > > > > > > ************************************************* > > > Date: Tue, 23 Dec 1997 20:48:09 -0800 (PST) > > > To: Moped Mailing List > > > Subject: Re: 70cc bore kit experiences > > > > > > On Tue, 23 Dec 1997 daugava@nothnbut.net wrote: > > > > > > > > > > > What I am trying to determine here is whether the moped is in fact a > > > > false economy. Can someone please tell me how many miles or kms i can > > > > expect out of my moped? I have asked many people and no one will give me > > > > a straight answer. To say that i might hit a car tomorrow and total the > > > > moped is an irrelevant comment. I am interested in generalities here. > > > > > > No manufacturer of any transportation that I know of will quote a number > > > of miles that engine should last. The closest thing that I've seen are > > > figures that quote mean time to overhaul. For stationary engines, I've > > > seen 1500 hours mean time between overhaul quoted. For a car engine that > > > equals about 90000 miles at 60 miles an hour. The FAA requires periodic > > > teardowns of aircraft piston engines at 1000 hours (?) I think. > > > Two strokes that are used in scooters and motorcycles are fairly high > > > maintenance. THey coke up because of the 2 stroke oil, they need freqeunt > > > tune ups, they often suffer from neglect, they are sensitive to jetting > > > and can be seizure prone if the jetting is off or if air seals leak(from > > > age). If used at high rpm, the rings wear quickly. The benefits of the 2 > > > stroke are that they are cheap, make good horsepower for the size of the > > > engine, they are simple and easy to maintain, rebuilds are cheap. They > > > actually tend to get poor fuel efficiency but because the engine > > > and bike are so small, fuel costs are pretty low. > > > It's impossible to predict the life of the engine. Even if you > > > can find a manufacturers quoted mean time between overhaul, your engine > > > might fall significantly above or below the mean. Production tolerances > > > prevent the engines from being exactly the same and the manufacturer has > > > little control over the end use. The only thing you can do is to take care > > > of your engine so that it lasts as long as possible. > > > > > > -Dave > > > > Ok, i see. you say that rebuild of a 50 cc engine is cheap - around how > > cheap. I know you cant give me an exact figure or anything. What i was > > hoping to find were people who had actually run their peds for many tens > > of thousands of miles. > > > > The other reason that i was surprised that a moped engine needed to be > > rebuilt after 13000 miles is that I have observed lawn mower and chain > > saw engines lasting forever. I believe that these are the same type of > > engines as on mopeds, no? And a lawn mower engine hardly gets any cooling > > i would think. My brother has a lawn mower from the early 70s (sears). > > It's still chugging. > > ahh yes of course - ingenious. Date: Fri, 02 Jan 1998 14:18:34 -0800 To: daugava@nothnbut.net From: proof@idt.net Subject: Re: 70cc bore kit experiences daugava@nothnbut.net wrote: > > ************************************************* > Date: Fri, 2 Jan 1998 14:23:23 EST > To: daugava@nothnbut.net > From: AaronM428@aol.com > Subject: Re: 70cc bore kit experiences > > In a message dated 97-12-30 23:01:04 EST, you write: > > << Curious: Why did you stop using synthetic oil?>> > > Why start? First of all, good quality non-synthetic is $4 for 16oz, synthetic > blend $4 for 8oz, full synthetic $5 for 8oz. Also, the engine does not smoke > regardless of what type of oil is used, at least mine doesn't. Lastly I have > never heard of verifyable (SP?) tests provong that synthetic is better for the > engine than, here's the key, GOOD QUALITY "natural" oil. yes i agree and also if you are ever thinking of doing any long distance touring on your ped you have to be concerned about availability on the road. I think "natural" is alot more available Date: Fri, 2 Jan 1998 23:29:48 -0800 (PST) To: Andrei Zaitsev Subject: Re: Whizzer parts I will try and find it in my pile of magazines. It was a small sidebar article. Only 3 or 4 paragraphs with a small picture. If you are interested in that kind of thing, there is a guy in Louisiana building small, cruiser styled motorcycles using an 18HP Briggs and Stratton engine. HIs name is Bertaut and there are pictures on the internet, just search for "Bertaut and Son". -Dave ANDREW: I found it at http://www.atlasmv.com/com/Bert1eng.html Impressive! I am right to assume that this is the only automatic transmission motorcycle out there ? On Fri, 2 Jan 1998, Moped Mailing List wrote: > > A recent motorcycle magazine I read had a small article about an outfit in > > california that was putting 10HP briggs and stratton engines on a beacjh > > cruiser type frame!!! I wonder if the bicycle and running gear are up to > > the 60 mph speeds that it ought to be able to go! Yee Haw!!! > Do you remember whicg magazine/issue that was ? > I'd like to look this article up. > > Andrew > > > Date: Sat, 03 Jan 1998 10:15:14 +0100 To: Subject: Overhaul experiences; was: 70cc bore kit experiences At 18:56 2-01-98 EST, Scott H wrote: >************************************************* >Date: Wed, 31 Dec 1997 15:28:14 EST >To: daugava@nothnbut.net >From: Huvz@aol.com > My experience in trading small bikes, scooteres, and mopeds, tell me > that at 1,500 miles or less the bikes tend to be in relatively good >condition, and still have some power. > At 2,000-3,000 miles it could go eitherway. Depending on how the bikes were >treated, they could be good runner with some sign of wear (power loss), or a >bike in need of rebuild. > AT 4,000 miles plus - I figure it as a "hi-miler", and usually always are in >need of rebuild, and cosmetic work as well. These bikes are usually missing >parts, like side covers, etc. > I rarely see these small bikes here in "cold weather" territory with more >than 5,000 miles. ( Takes alot of summers to go 5,000 on one, we have 3-4 >months of good riding weather here in summer) > Hope this info proves helpful to you, Which brands of bikes, scooters and mopeds do you trade? I bet it's Kasea, Jawa and other Chinese and ex-communist crap. The Honda's we sell and service over here in the Netherlands easily last 10000 Miles, heavy users or not.. Tomos cylinders last very long too, my estimate is at least the same as for Honda. Cheers, Hans Hartman Date: Sat, 03 Jan 1998 10:04:33 +0100 To: Subject: Synth oil Y/N, was: 70cc bore kit experiences At 18:56 2-01-98 EST, Jack wrote: >************************************************* >Date: Thu, 1 Jan 1998 11:52:43 -0700 (MST) >To: >Subject: Re: 70cc bore kit experiences Good afternoon Jack, rest of you mopedeers >>Curious: Why did you stop using synthetic oil? >> >> >>Once you start using synthetic, it's not a good idea to change back!!! Also >never use additives in synthetic oil (slick 50, etc.). > I think you've committed yourself to synthetics until your next rebuild >(which, if you change back, will be sooner rather than later). You make me wonder. What exactly happens when you change from synth to mineral oil? Do the dopes react that agressive towards each other? I take it, you refer to 4-stroke engines or mopeds with an oil-tank, otherwise I see no problem in switching back and forth using different oils. I myself mix my PA50 with low-budget synth oil for a whole year now, and haven't had any problems up until now; was decoking every 2 months. That oil costs aprox. 4 dollars here, a good mineral oil 5- 6 Dollars.. Additives always suck in any oil. Products like that belong in the catagory 'amazing discovery's'... Cheers, Hans Hartman Date: Sat, 3 Jan 1998 07:38:50 -0800 To: "Solex Mopeds" Subject: Solex Moped I have a Solex Moped in absolutely 100% original condition. I believe it is a 1964 S3800, it has a plaque that says "made in france". Has all tools, air pump, original tires, plug, etc. The engine runs and the lights work. Has a few small scratches, but nothing serious. I would appreciate your opinion concerning it's value. Please let me know what you think. Thanks, Tony Date: Sat, 3 Jan 1998 07:41:02 -0800 To: Subject: Re: oil+gas. Just be sure it says for two-stroke engines! -----Original Message----- From: daugava@nothnbut.net Subject: oil+gas. >************************************************* >Date: Sat, 3 Jan 1998 16:50:40 -0500 >To: Moped >Subject: oil+gas. > > >hi, ya i know i have to add in a mixture of gasoline and oil. >I went to the local Canadian Tire to get some, on the moped >it says to get "Two Stroke or Engine Oil sae 30-50". >At Canadian Tire they got 2 bottles of engine oil. >One is Engine Oil 30, the other is 50. >What is the moped trying to tell me? that i can use >30 OR 50, or like a special kind called 30-50 sorta like >10w-30??? Or does it mean i can use between 30 and 50? >so like a 40 will do? >as you can see i'm pretty dumb, so can one of you point >me in the direction of what to buy. >Thanks. > -- Alok from Toronto. > > > Date: Sat, 3 Jan 1998 10:33:11 -0600 To: "Mailing List" Subject: fw: motored bicycle ------- reply to David G Wood > Andrei, > Attached is motored.jpg. It's a scanned image of the article on > the 10 HP engined bicycle type scooter. I found it in the June 1997 issue > of Motorcyclist Magazine, p. 22. If the image is unclear, or if you can't > view jpegs for some reason, let me know and I'll forward the address and > phone number of the manufacturer. > > -Dave The picture is at /d/moped/motored.jpg Andrew Date: Sat, 03 Jan 1998 00:43:23 -0800 To: daugava@nothnbut.net From: proof@idt.net Subject: Re: hello daugava@nothnbut.net wrote: > > ************************************************* > Date: Fri, 02 Jan 1998 22:42:19 -0600 (CST) > To: cyclepro@evansville.net > From: cyclepro@evansville.net > Subject: Re: hello > > On Fri, 2 Jan, daugava@nothnbut.net wrote... > >************************************************* > >Date: Tue, 30 Dec 1997 22:03:05 -0800 > >To: daugava@nothnbut.net > >From: proof@idt.net > >Subject: Re: hello > > > > > >daugava@nothnbut.net wrote: > >> > >> ************************************************* > >> Date: Sat, 27 Dec 1997 13:02:26 EST > >> To: daugava@nothnbut.net > >> From: ACassin105@aol.com > >> Subject: Re: hello > >> > >> im 15 and ride a Targa Lx im almost 16 and when i bought my moped two years > >> ago i was going to sell it when i was 16 to put in my car fund but now i dont > >> think ill ever sell it > > > > > >NO, dont get a car - and keep your ped. Cars are the route to financial > slavery. Drive > >to work/Work to drive. The day is soon coming when the ped and the scooter > will once > >again be THE coolest things to have - like Italy in the 50's or something. > > > > > Right On....But at that age you really a back seat can come in really > handy! That penchant for engaging in certain activities in the cramped confines of the back seat of a car i find bizarre and highly unromantic. I prefer the tops of mountains and forests. And why are females at that age acting as enforcers for the auto industry? are they paid for this? Dont worry dude, if she dont want to date you cuz you are smart enough to live without a car tell her to go ride a moped. Date: Sat, 3 Jan 1998 13:08:29 EST To: daugava@nothnbut.net From: MaytagTwin@aol.com Subject: Re: Solex Moped In a message dated 98-01-03 11:59:12 EST, you write: << Subj: Solex Moped Date: 98-01-03 11:59:12 EST From: daugava@nothnbut.net Reply-to: daugava@nothnbut.net To: daugava@nothnbut.net (Moped Mailing List) ************************************************* Date: Sat, 3 Jan 1998 07:38:50 -0800 To: "Solex Mopeds" Subject: Solex Moped I have a Solex Moped in absolutely 100% original condition. I believe it is a 1964 S3800, it has a plaque that says "made in france". Has all tools, air pump, original tires, plug, etc. The engine runs and the lights work. Has a few small scratches, but nothing serious. I would appreciate your opinion concerning it's value. Please let me know what you think. Thanks, Tony >> Tony, How about $150 + shipping? Ron Nokesville, Virginia Date: Sat, 03 Jan 1998 13:19:25 -0500 To: daugava@nothnbut.net From: 6828t@bright.net Subject: Re: moped leak There is one more thing to check! Take the float and shake it to see if it has any fuel in it. If it does it has a hole in it and you may need to replace it if you can fine one. Now I have repaired floats before by drilling a hole in them a real small hole to drain the fuel out wash out with water dry it real good so there is no moister in it then solider the float back up, it goes without saying try to drill were the hole is in the float, remove any extra solider on the float (should be less then paper thin) It takes time to do but if you can't find a new or used one that is the only way to go. Thank You Bob Taylor daugava@nothnbut.net wrote: > ************************************************* > Date: Fri, 02 Jan 1998 23:12:33 -0600 (CST) > To: cyclepro@evansville.net > From: cyclepro@evansville.net > Subject: Re: moped leak > > On Fri, 2 Jan, daugava@nothnbut.net wrote... > >************************************************* > >Date: Thu, 1 Jan 1998 04:08:50 +0100 > >To: > >Subject: Re: moped leak > > > > > > > >-----Oorspronkelijk bericht----- > >Van: daugava@nothnbut.net > >Onderwerp: moped leak > > > > > > > >Help! > >I have a 1970 mobylette moped that has a gas leak. Gas enters the = > >carburetor and than leaks out. Does anyone know how to fix it. Thanks. = > >Nick Mirus > >=20 > > > > > >This sounds like a floater problem, check and clean your carb, floater room > >and floater. put it back together and see if it is over. > >Peter. > > > > > > > > > PETER IS RIGHT, ALSO CHECK TO MAKE SURE IT WILL REALLY FLOAT AND CAREFULLY > INSPECT THE FLOAT NEEDLE WITH YOUR FINGER NAIL. IF IT HAS EVEN THE > SLIGHTEST GROVE IN IT, IN A PERFECT WORLD IT SHOULD BE > REPLACED..........ALSO ANOTHER POSSIBILITY IS THE FLOAT MAY NEED TO BE > ADJUSTED TO FLOAT AT THE CORRECT LEVEL.........GREG Date: Sat, 3 Jan 1998 12:04:54 -0600 To: "Mailing List" Subject: Fw: velosolex This is a multi-part message in MIME format. ------=_NextPart_000_01BD183F.CD267DA0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset=ISO-8859-1 Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit ---------- reply to Peter Wibmer Hi! I'm owning some mopeds and would like to come in contact with folk, owning the same types: KTM Ponny II Puch VS 50 Velosolex 1400 Velosolex 2200 Velosolex 3800 Especially do I need a repair-booklet for the 1400 Velosolex Peter from Austria Date: Sat, 3 Jan 1998 13:13:17 -0600 To: "Mailing List" Subject: Fw: motorized bike for 8 year old ----- reply Bruce C. Zangwill What is the cost range of motorized bikes or go-karts for my son , who is almost eight years old? Date: Sat, 3 Jan 1998 13:23:08 -0600 To: "Mailing List" Subject: Fw: Mobylette ------- reply to Edward R. Varner My father recently picked up a moped with the name "Mobylette." The name on the engine is "Motobecane AV42." If it's not too much trouble, could you tell us anything at all about this thing. We know virtually nothing about this 'ped. We would appreciate any and all information we could get about this. We do need a carburator for it. As I said, any info at all would be helpful. Thank you very much, Bob and Ed Varner Date: Sat, 3 Jan 1998 14:42:08 EST To: daugava@nothnbut.net From: AaronM428@aol.com Subject: Re: Synth oil Y/N, was: 70cc bore kit experiences In a message dated 98-01-03 11:55:40 EST, you write: << >>Once you start using synthetic, it's not a good idea to change back!!! Also >never use additives in synthetic oil (slick 50, etc.). > I think you've committed yourself to synthetics until your next rebuild >(which, if you change back, will be sooner rather than later). >> To my knowledge there is no reason why you cannot switch back. The synth. blend oil I used said that it could be mixed with mineral oil without problems. Besides, it's too late to not go back to mineral oil now. Date: Sat, 3 Jan 1998 14:49:30 EST To: daugava@nothnbut.net From: AaronM428@aol.com Subject: Re: 70cc bore kit experiences In a message dated 98-01-02 20:32:22 EST, you write: << Ok, is the problem here the fact that it's only a 50 cc engine? Would say an 80 cc engine have a much better long term cost profile? How about a 4 stroke engine? >> Probably. Generally, Bigger Engine=More Power=Less Work. Because of the 50cc engine's small size, it has to work harder to produce the same power as a larger engine, the harder something works (humans included) the less time it lasts. Date: Sat, 3 Jan 1998 14:57:14 EST To: daugava@nothnbut.net From: AaronM428@aol.com Subject: Re: oil+gas. In a message dated 98-01-02 21:05:53 EST, you write: << What is the moped trying to tell me? that i can use 30 OR 50, or like a special kind called 30-50 sorta like 10w-30??? Or does it mean i can use between 30 and 50? so like a 40 will do? as you can see i'm pretty dumb, so can one of you point me in the direction of what to buy. Thanks. -- Alok from Toronto. >> What the moped is telling you is that if you cannot find 2-cycle oil you may use 30-50 weight motor oil. DO NOT use regular motor oil as your primary oil!!! It is better than not having any oil at all, but regular use of regular motor oil is not reccommended (SP?). Date: Sat, 3 Jan 1998 14:04:50 -0600 To: "Mailing List" Subject: URL: Yung Shin folding minibike http://www.yungshin.com.tw Date: Sat, 03 Jan 1998 14:57:22 -0600 (CST) To: cyclepro@evansville.net From: cyclepro@evansville.net Subject: Re: when is it time to rebuild? On Sat, 3 Jan, daugava@nothnbut.net wrote... >************************************************* >Date: Fri, 2 Jan 1998 21:37:47 EST >To: daugava@nothnbut.net >From: SUPRDAVE@aol.com >Subject: when is it time to rebuild? > > >with all this discussion about rebuilding etc, i'd like to know when is the >right time to do it. right now i've got a QT50 with 1370 miles and runs great. >i also have an aero 50 scooter with 8500 miles that runs just as good. i >havent done a thing to the aero for two years besides replacing the battery. i >know it might need a drive belt before it breaks and the motor doesnt make any >strange noises and starts with a little help from ether when its cold in the >winter since the auto choke doesnt work. is it really time to rebuild? i hate >to tear it apart since it's working, so what does one look for when a motor >says "its time for an overhaul"? > >david > > DAVE.....That is an excellent question. Most customers just run em till they die but there is a smarter way to do it. I make my overhaul deceisions based on the following items. When doing the routine scheduled maintenance checks I also include a compression test as part of the maintenance check. I do this from the beginning. I keep records of the compression. As the engine wares with use the compression will fall. When it gets down to about 60% of new its time to consider a top overhaul. The manufacture service manual should specify normal and minimum compression values. Also a 2 cycle should have the top end decarboned every so often and that is a good time to measure the piston and cylinder and check ring end gap, check for scoring etc. The manufactures service manual will specify minimum and maximum values for these measurements. On the bottom end it is more difficult to make an accurate determination of when the ware limits have been reached without a complete teardown and one way or the other a judgment call is required unless you have run the motor until you have a catastrophic failure necessitating a complete teardown. To accomplish these checks with any degree of accuracy you need some fairy sophisticated measuring equipment. Micrometer, T-gauge minimum and preferably a bore gauge. To help you make a judgment call you can check crankshaft end play. The service manual has a spec on this. You can also get a rough idea of play between the crankshaft main bearings and crankshaft buy pushing on the crankshaft perpendicular to its axis and reading any movement with dial indicator. All this leads to another question. WHAT IS A OVERHAUL. THIS IS WHERE THE JACK LEGS AND THE SHADE TREES LET THE CONSUMER DOWN. WHAT THE AVERAGE SHOP CALLS AN OVERHAUL AND WHAT THE CUSTOMER BELIEVES HE IS GETTING ARE A WORLD APART. WHEN AN ENGINE IS PROPERLY OVERHAULED I THINK IT SHOULD BE AS GOOD AS NEW AND DELIVER SAME SERVICE. GREG Date: Sat, 3 Jan 1998 13:17:57 -0800 (PST) To: Moped Mailing List Subject: Re: Tomos Targa LX 70cc bore kit experiences > > FROM AN ENGINEERING STAND POINT SMALL 2 cycle ENGINES ARE THEORETICALLY > DESIGNED FOR A 500HR TIME BETWEEN MAJOR OVERHAUL WITH TOP ENDS GIVING 75 TO > 125 HRS. OF SERVICE PROVIDED THEY ARE TREATED WELL. I KNOW THAT HIGHER > QUALITY EUROPEAN UNITS DO CONSIDERABLY BETTER THAN THIS AND THAT SOME > OTHERS DO MUCH WORSE. I AM THINKING OF THE PROMOTIONAL WEED WHACKERS THAT > WALMART & K-MART SELL. I'VE SEEN SOME THAT DON'T GO 10 HRS. Are you an Engineer or do you repair small engines for a living? If those small 2 strokers are really designed for 500 hours TBO then your customers 8000 mile Honda 50 is right in that neighorhood for an overhaul. It should also give the guy who's trying to work up a cost of ownership estimate for his moped some idea of what to expect. > SEE YA.....GREG > BUT ATLEAST 10 YEARS AGO I OVERHAULED A LAWNBOY FOR A NEIGHBOR HOOD BOY > THAT CUT 50+ YARDS A WEEK. HE STILL CUT JUST AS MANY YARDS HE HAS BEEN > THROUGH MANY OTHER BACKUP MOWERS BUT HE SAYS THAT THE LAWNBOY IS HIS > PRIMARY AND IT IS STILL DELIVERING. HE CLAIMS THAT IT HASN"T HAD ANY MAJOR > WORK SINCE I OVERHAULD IT......UNBELIEVEABLE HUH? You must have done a good job, eh? :) -Dave Date: Sat, 3 Jan 1998 13:34:22 -0800 (PST) To: Moped Mailing List Subject: Re: (no subject) > > No, that is not true at all. If you think about it, mass transit consumes > no time whatsoever because you can always read/sleep/work. Most of us > have all three of those to catch up on. So mass transit is infinately > fast in that sense. Sorry, I don't agree. First, you try sleeping or working in a big city mass transit with all the crips and bloods on it. 2nd, if I have to get up early and take a 2 hour trip with a transfer stop in between to avoid a trip that takes me 20 minutes by car- that's a waste of my time. Even if I could be working or sleeping, I'D RATHER NOT BE. I have a bus stop about 50 feet from my front door and there's another stop right at the plant gate where I work. I've yet to use the bus because of the time issue. I would even use it with a 5 or 10 minute time penalty but an hour and 40 minutes, twice a day is worth a lot to me...and to most people too, judging by the mass transit usage in this country. -Dave Date: Sat, 03 Jan 1998 15:41:31 -0600 (CST) To: cyclepro@evansville.net From: cyclepro@evansville.net Subject: Re: Engine Life Exptations On Sat, 3 Jan, daugava@nothnbut.net wrote... >************************************************* >Date: Sat, 03 Jan 1998 10:15:14 +0100 >To: >Subject: Overhaul experiences; was: 70cc bore kit experiences > > >At 18:56 2-01-98 EST, Scott H wrote: >>************************************************* >>Date: Wed, 31 Dec 1997 15:28:14 EST >>To: daugava@nothnbut.net >>From: Huvz@aol.com > >> My experience in trading small bikes, scooteres, and mopeds, tell me >> that at 1,500 miles or less the bikes tend to be in relatively good >>condition, and still have some power. >> At 2,000-3,000 miles it could go eitherway. Depending on how the bikes were >>treated, they could be good runner with some sign of wear (power loss), or a >>bike in need of rebuild. >> AT 4,000 miles plus - I figure it as a "hi-miler", and usually always are in >>need of rebuild, and cosmetic work as well. These bikes are usually missing >>parts, like side covers, etc. >> I rarely see these small bikes here in "cold weather" territory with more >>than 5,000 miles. ( Takes alot of summers to go 5,000 on one, we have 3-4 >>months of good riding weather here in summer) >> Hope this info proves helpful to you, > >Which brands of bikes, scooters and mopeds do you trade? >I bet it's Kasea, Jawa and other Chinese and ex-communist crap. The Honda's > we sell and service over here in the Netherlands easily last 10000 Miles, >heavy users or not.. Tomos cylinders last very long too, my estimate is at >least the same as for Honda. > > >Cheers, > > > >Hans Hartman > > > HANS, It souund like we are getting a wide range of operationa conditions that are having varing effects on engine life. In the USA it seems that alot of riders run around at full throttle most of the time. Some think these little machines ought to be able to pull long steep grades riding double. We have a lot of 50cc Honda Elites here and they almost never see 10000 mi. What is your opinion of the PUCH MAXI? I haven't seen ant of the late ones yet but I have several high mile old ones here in town that really seem to deliver excellent service. Last summer I toped one for a lady that rides every day it had over 17000 miles showing! I am worndering if the late ones will be as good. GREG Date: Sat, 03 Jan 1998 15:52:34 -0600 (CST) To: cyclepro@evansville.net From: cyclepro@evansville.net Subject: Re: fw: motored bicycle Thanks Andrew, I checked out the picture and I love the way this thing looks. I am going to call the number next week for more details and pricing. The picture looks somewhat like an old Harley Hummer. GREG On Sat, 3 Jan, daugava@nothnbut.net wrote... >************************************************* >Date: Sat, 3 Jan 1998 10:33:11 -0600 >To: "Mailing List" >Subject: fw: motored bicycle > > >------- reply to David G Wood >> Andrei, >> Attached is motored.jpg. It's a scanned image of the article on >> the 10 HP engined bicycle type scooter. I found it in the June 1997 issue >> of Motorcyclist Magazine, p. 22. If the image is unclear, or if you can't >> view jpegs for some reason, let me know and I'll forward the address and >> phone number of the manufacturer. >> >> -Dave >The picture is at /d/moped/motored.jpg > >Andrew > > > Date: Sat, 3 Jan 1998 13:54:46 -0800 (PST) To: Moped Mailing List Subject: Re: Whizzer parts > engine. HIs name is Bertaut and there are pictures on the internet, just > search for "Bertaut and Son". > > -Dave > > ANDREW: I found it at http://www.atlasmv.com/com/Bert1eng.html > Impressive! > I am right to assume that this is the only automatic transmission > motorcycle out there ? It's the only thing that I know of that you can buy new that would qualify as an automatic motorcycle. The transmission on the Bertaut is the same type that you see on many scooters and most snowmobiles. It's a CVT- two variable diameter pulleys connectect by a belt. Centrifugaly actuated weights cause the front pulley diameter to change with torque loading/rpm changes. The rear pully is controlled by spring(s) and automatically adjusts the rear pulley diameter to the front. There are older, full size motorcycles that have regular, automotive type auto transissions- Honda 400 Hawk was available with one as was a CB750 and a MotoGuzzi. But they haven't been available new for many years. This type of trnsmission was first used on Salsbury scooters in the 1930s or 40s. They can be purchased new from Hoffco/Comet in sizes that will handle over 100 HP. THey are cheap, light weight and simple. The problems with them are that you have to periodically replace the belt and they are not suitable for high rpm operation (above 6000 rpm, according to a snowmobiler that was into drag racing them) because the belt slippage costs HP and wears out the belts quickly. -Dave Date: Sat, 3 Jan 1998 14:11:22 -0800 (PST) To: Moped Mailing List Subject: Re: 70cc bore kit experiences > > > you mean move down to a car. Ok yes you are right about the lawn mower > times. I did not really think that through. Ok saw a moped engine rebuild > is not that big a deal cost wise apparently. So after such a rebuild, it > will last another 10k miles or so? Or is there a point at which it's not > worth doing anymore? About the problem of heat buildup during idling: > have you ever seen a retrofit of a fan hooked up to a moped like the > tomos? Would such a fan significantly increase engine life? I believe > most mopeds are being driven in "city" type riding - i.e., alot of idle > time at lights. If you re-do the top ends, they can usually be re-ringed many times. If you need to over bore the cylinder because of damage or lots of wear, you can usually do that 2 or 3 times before you reach the bore limit (assuming you don't put really big gouges from a catastrophic engine failure). After that, you can get a new cylinder and piston, maybe have the old one re-sleeved with a new piston. The bottom ends can also be rebuilt many times- you need to replace the bearings,seals and possibly the connecting rod and flywheels depending on the age and condition of the engine. After the rebuild the engine should last about as long as before. Greg says that these engines are designed to got about 100+ or - hours between top ends and 500 hours between overhaul. That would mean 10000 miles at 20 MPH for an overhaul and about 1000 miles between ring jobs. You can continue to do overhauls until you break something that isn't cost effective to repair or until you get tired of dealing with it. Back when two stroke motorcycles were readily available, there were LOTS of people who chose 4 strokes because of not having to work on them as much. I've not seen a moped with a fan conversion but most small, enclosed body scooters have fans on their engines. -Dave Date: Sat, 3 Jan 1998 17:16:18 EST To: daugava@nothnbut.net From: GeeeTeee@aol.com Subject: Re: (no subject) I think there is a lot more pride in riding a moped than riding a bus or a subway. on a moped you have control of where you are going. Date: Sat, 03 Jan 1998 16:21:38 -0600 (CST) To: cyclepro@evansville.net From: cyclepro@evansville.net Subject: Re: hello On Sat, 03 Jan, daugava@nothnbut.net wrote... >************************************************* >Date: Sat, 03 Jan 1998 00:43:23 -0800 >To: daugava@nothnbut.net >From: proof@idt.net >Subject: Re: hello > > >daugava@nothnbut.net wrote: >> >> ************************************************* >> Date: Fri, 02 Jan 1998 22:42:19 -0600 (CST) >> To: cyclepro@evansville.net >> From: cyclepro@evansville.net >> Subject: Re: hello >> >> On Fri, 2 Jan, daugava@nothnbut.net wrote... >> >************************************************* >> >Date: Tue, 30 Dec 1997 22:03:05 -0800 >> >To: daugava@nothnbut.net >> >From: proof@idt.net >> >Subject: Re: hello >> > >> > >> >daugava@nothnbut.net wrote: >> >> >> >> ************************************************* >> >> Date: Sat, 27 Dec 1997 13:02:26 EST >> >> To: daugava@nothnbut.net >> >> From: ACassin105@aol.com >> >> Subject: Re: hello >> >> >> >> im 15 and ride a Targa Lx im almost 16 and when i bought my moped two years >> >> ago i was going to sell it when i was 16 to put in my car fund but now i dont >> >> think ill ever sell it >> > >> > >> >NO, dont get a car - and keep your ped. Cars are the route to financial >> slavery. Drive >> >to work/Work to drive. The day is soon coming when the ped and the scooter >> will once >> >again be THE coolest things to have - like Italy in the 50's or something. >> > >> > >> Right On....But at that age you really a back seat can come in really >> handy! > > >That penchant for engaging in certain activities in the cramped confines >of the back seat of a car i find bizarre and highly unromantic. I prefer >the tops of mountains and forests. > > >And why are females at that age acting as enforcers for the auto >industry? are they paid for this? > >Dont worry dude, if she dont want to date you cuz you are smart enough to >live without a car tell her to go ride a moped. > > OUCH! .......Guess I walked right into that one. But I agree mountains or woods are good too. The back seat is just matter convenience, like Mickey D’s , but I wouldn’t want to eat there all the time...................................Greg Date: Sat, 3 Jan 1998 18:04:22 -0500 (EST) To: Moped Mailing List Subject: Re: What would be considered "cream of the crop" ? On Sat, 3 Jan 1998 proof@idt.net wrote: > Yeah fine Piaggio is great but you can't buy a new one here in the US so > it's kind of irrelevant. Just what is Piaggio's problem if a rinky dink > outfit like tomos can sell here? Tomos is here and they seem to be here > to stay - you can get parts/service fairly easily. That's arguably as > important as the design/quality. Piaggio wants to sell scooters and not just mopeds, that's the issue. There is a very good chance they'll re-enter the US sometime in 1998, though I have no idea if the moped line would be included or not. Getting Vespa/Piaggio mopeds parts is pretty easy in the US also. Best place is Vespa Supershop in San Diego, though there are several other dealers also. ~ Danny ~ ~-~-~-~-~-~-~-~-~-~-~-~-~-~-~-~-~-~-~-~-~-~-~-~-~-~-~-~-~-~-~-~-~-~ syracuse ska!! Date: Sat, 03 Jan 1998 18:12:22 -0500 To: chrislo@cfw.com From: chrislo@cfw.com Subject: rear brake light. > > This is only true on mopeds where the rear brake light is part of the circuit. > > Really it depends on the moped, some have the bulb in the ignition circuit, > > some don't. > ya, i know that. But which do, and which do not? is there any way > of finding out??? a reason i came accross on my my moped won't > start is because it is being grounded, even though the shut off switch > is like taken apart. taking the bulb out is equivalent to it being broken... Date: Sat, 3 Jan 1998 18:09:02 -0500 (EST) To: Moped Mailing List Subject: Re: 70cc bore kit experiences On Sat, 3 Jan 1998 proof@idt.net wrote: > yes, thanks, very disturbing. But i was just reading about a guy who is > soon to go around the world on his vespa scooter. I think it's a 125 cc > So I guess what i need is a bigger engine?? Do they last longer? Nope, '98 model 200cc two-stroke air-cooled scooter called the Vespa PX200 that's been in production with minor changes since 1978. I have an '81 model with over 30,000 miles and I'm just getting around to my first engine overhaul, which I'm doing myself (because it's easy, not because I'm some mechanical whiz). They still produce smaller scooters too. ~ Danny ~ ~-~-~-~-~-~-~-~-~-~-~-~-~-~-~-~-~-~-~-~-~-~-~-~-~-~-~-~-~-~-~-~-~-~ syracuse ska!! Date: Sat, 3 Jan 1998 18:12:50 -0500 (EST) To: Moped Mailing List Subject: Re: hello On Sat, 3 Jan 1998 proof@idt.net wrote: > Dont worry dude, if she dont want to date you cuz you are smart enough > to live without a car tell her to go ride a moped. As a teenager I sold my car to buy a Vespa 200cc scooter. My friends all said I was nuts, that I'd lose dates with girls. I can say I did lose a few, but I also got just as many with cool girls that appreciated my scooter, which was better in my opinion. ; ) ~ Danny ~ ~-~-~-~-~-~-~-~-~-~-~-~-~-~-~-~-~-~-~-~-~-~-~-~-~-~-~-~-~-~-~-~-~-~ syracuse ska!! Date: Sat, 03 Jan 1998 18:21:48 -0500 To: chrislo@cfw.com From: chrislo@cfw.com Subject: Re: Overhaul experiences > > At 2,000-3,000 miles it could go eitherway. Depending on how the bikes were > >treated, they could be good runner with some sign of wear (power loss), or a > >bike in need of rebuild. > > AT 4,000 miles plus - I figure it as a "hi-miler", and usually always are in > >need of rebuild, and cosmetic work as well. These bikes are usually missing > >parts, like side covers, etc. what kind of moped "owners" are these??!! > Which brands of bikes, scooters and mopeds do you trade? > I bet it's Kasea, Jawa and other Chinese and ex-communist crap. The Honda's > we sell and service over here in the Netherlands easily last 10000 Miles, > heavy users or not.. a two-stroke should really last 20,000 kms/2 years without falling apart. Date: Sat, 03 Jan 1998 18:33:29 -0500 To: chrislo@cfw.com From: chrislo@cfw.com Subject: romantic smells > That penchant for engaging in certain activities in the cramped confines > of the back seat of a car i find bizarre and highly unromantic. I prefer > the tops of mountains and forests. accessible by moped > And why are females at that age acting as enforcers for the auto > industry? are they paid for this? > Dont worry dude, if she dont want to date you cuz you are smart enough to > live without a car tell her to go ride a moped. yoiks. more girl-bashing. i had many a fair-weather-girlfriend-pseudo-moped-chick who "liked" me (and the decent long seat on my zuendapp) but would hang with the older guys with cars whenever it rained. i always thought: just wait till i'm old enough to get a car myslef! course, by that time the moped scene had vanished and with it the girls from the streets. one broad once spilled some "my melody" (smells like teen spirit) inn my helmet. haha! that was fun. ts Date: Sat, 03 Jan 1998 19:42:32 -0500 To: daugava@nothnbut.net From: 6828t@bright.net Subject: Re: Motobecane Hi Scott Give this guy a call I am sure he can help you. I got some rings for a 79 Motobecane he said he has what ever I need. Don't have his e-mail address but here is his phone # 201-384-7777. He is at 40 Park Ave. Dumont NJ, 07628. Sorry wrong coast but I am pretty sure he will have what you need. Thank You USA MOTOBECANE CLUB Bob Taylor daugava@nothnbut.net wrote: > ************************************************* > Date: Thu, 25 Dec 1997 09:56:27 -0800 > To: scone@sk.sympatico.ca > From: scone@sk.sympatico.ca > Subject: Motobecane > > I am looking for a set of standard rings for what I think is a > 1970 49cc Type 4 .Can anyone help? > Scott Cone > scone@sk.sympatico.ca Date: Sun, 4 Jan 1998 01:38:12 +0100 To: Subject: Re: 70cc bore kit experiences >> YOU ARE NOT A PAIN IN THE ASS. THIS IS A VAID RELAVENT QUESTION >> Mass transit is intended to be the most economical means available and it >> low cost when all the seats are filled. Mass transit is usually subsidised >> by other revenue sources so that the total cost of operation isn't charged >> to the fare payer. BUT you are dependent on the bus & must sacrafice a >> certian amount of personal freedom of mobility. >> >> Mopeds are not an economical or practical solution for anyone having a >> substancial transportation requirement. But for providing short haul >> personal transportation they are great. A bicycle may also be an option >> here. >> >> If you are a "BEAN COUNTER" take the mass transit. Someone else is probably >> paying part of the cost. You won't have the risk of a premature failure, >> theft, or a crash. MOPEDS are FUN and give you FREEDOM, but if you are >> going to dance you got to pay the band. >> >> ......GREG DOUGAN > > > >Ok this is the typical double standard applied to mass transit. Yes, it is subsidized. Yes, how else could they do it, wait for philantripists? >But so is the moped and of course the most subsidized of all is the car. I don't know how they subsidise these at yours , but here in holland especialy cars are the states milk cow. 70% tax on petrol , owner tax etc, so assuming that it is also the big component of you milage costs for your moped it also affects you as a ped driver. Aviation is >heavily subsidized. Probably the most neglected modes are rail - both freight and >passenger. > here rail, bus and planes are subsidised or at least handled with care. (why do you think is schiphol/klm so popular (nwa even allied with ém) ? almost no tax on kerosine !! while we as private car/ ped owners are squised out in the name of environment %$#%$#% protection >Ok no I am not a bean counter - i'm just commited to living a very cheap life style so >that I can spend the least possible time engaged in wage slavery. I live in an old silk >factory for probably 1/5 the rent of what anyone else i know pays. The beauty of the >moped and its appeal to me is in its smallness and apparent efficiency. I am just >dismayed to find that my image of them is not exactly true. > >Ok, is the problem here the fact that it's only a 50 cc engine? Would say an 80 cc >engine have a much better long term cost profile? How about a 4 stroke engine? > > > buy a bike, no motor attached, no service or gas needed. otherwise bleed, and with more cc and weight bleed more. btw , if i included the acual sales value in the calculation it would have been crippled, the value of an good tomos has doubled in the past 5 yrs. period, (this only happens to old timers !) normaly every year is halves ! Bye, Peter Staal ---------------------------------------------------------------------- Email: staal@concepts.nl Home: http://home.concepts.nl/~staal ---------------------------------------------------------------------- Date: Sun, 4 Jan 1998 01:46:41 +0100 To: Subject: Re: Puch -----Oorspronkelijk bericht----- Van: daugava@nothnbut.net Onderwerp: Re: Puch >************************************************* >Date: Thu, 1 Jan 1998 16:07:50 -0500 >To: daugava@nothnbut.net >From: a.ghosh@utoronto.ca >Subject: Re: Puch > > >daugava@nothnbut.net wrote: >> >> ************************************************* >> Date: Sun, 28 Dec 1997 20:55:12 EST >> To: daugava@nothnbut.net >> From: Huvz@aol.com >> Subject: Re: Puch >> >> Jim, >> Let me know where you are located, I can help you with parts. >> I have a few PUCH parts bikes. I am in Ohio. Parts can be shipped. >> As far as the rings go, you should be able to install them. All you have to >> do is follow some easy instructions, and be careful, and gentle with the rings >> as they go on. The worst thing that can happen is you may break one. >> However, if a job shop would bead blast the piston to remove carbon, and >> clean the ring grooves, and install the rings for a reasonable price, that >> would be ok too. (expect to pay 25-50 dollars ?) >> You would do well to find another clunmer like that one for spares. >> Good luck. Let me know what used parts you may need. >> Scott H >well i think i've told evrybody now this, >but the parts that i need for my 75 puch is that fuel switch, mine >leaks, i need the left crank and the left crank nut bolt. the ones that >i have are stripped of threads, and there's not enough material to >re-thread >them. >Hey, one quick question, i'm a newbie to engines and mopeds and all, >what >are rings??? i've cleaned out the carbon and all. What should i do >next. >i'm looking around for a fuel switch, so i can test and to see if it >starts. > > > to test if it starts , buy a longer fuel line / tube. and connect tank and carb directly, if all's well the floater should prevent you from flooding, so it is drivable ;) tip: is the crank not equal to a bikes ones, also available at the junkyard or garbagedeposit? Bye, Peter Staal ---------------------------------------------------------------------- Email: staal@concepts.nl Home: http://home.concepts.nl/~staal ---------------------------------------------------------------------- Date: Sun, 4 Jan 1998 02:06:42 +0100 To: Subject: Re: oil+gas. -----Oorspronkelijk bericht----- Van: daugava@nothnbut.net Onderwerp: oil+gas. >************************************************* >Date: Sat, 3 Jan 1998 16:50:40 -0500 >To: Moped >Subject: oil+gas. > > >hi, ya i know i have to add in a mixture of gasoline and oil. >I went to the local Canadian Tire to get some, on the moped >it says to get "Two Stroke or Engine Oil sae 30-50". >At Canadian Tire they got 2 bottles of engine oil. >One is Engine Oil 30, the other is 50. >What is the moped trying to tell me? that i can use >30 OR 50, or like a special kind called 30-50 sorta like >10w-30??? Or does it mean i can use between 30 and 50? >so like a 40 will do? >as you can see i'm pretty dumb, so can one of you point >me in the direction of what to buy. >Thanks. > -- Alok from Toronto. > > > What kinda historic monster do you drive ? now adays they use special mix oils, NO ENGINE OIL the 30 / 40 / 50 are the same sae values as in 40-w50 and are a value for thickness of the liquid. the sae value of mix oil is not relevant because it will be soluded in the gas .( and become sae 1-w2 or some thing ) look for 2-stroke oil, lawn mawer mix oil will do too, no outboard mix, preferably, but i have a friend who swears on it , so it is usable for a good time. Date: Sun, 4 Jan 1998 02:37:52 +0100 To: Subject: Re: when is it time to rebuild? -----Oorspronkelijk bericht----- Van: daugava@nothnbut.net Onderwerp: when is it time to rebuild? >************************************************* >Date: Fri, 2 Jan 1998 21:37:47 EST >To: daugava@nothnbut.net >From: SUPRDAVE@aol.com >Subject: when is it time to rebuild? > > >with all this discussion about rebuilding etc, i'd like to know when is the >right time to do it. right now i've got a QT50 with 1370 miles and runs great. >i also have an aero 50 scooter with 8500 miles that runs just as good. i >havent done a thing to the aero for two years besides replacing the battery. i >know it might need a drive belt before it breaks and the motor doesnt make any >strange noises and starts with a little help from ether when its cold in the >winter since the auto choke doesnt work. is it really time to rebuild? i hate >to tear it apart since it's working, That is the 'subtile' trigger for most of us , to start looking at it it has to stop or make freaking noises, does that answer it ? so what does one look for when a motor >says "its time for an overhaul"? > >david > > > Bye, Peter Staal ---------------------------------------------------------------------- Email: staal@concepts.nl Home: http://home.concepts.nl/~staal ---------------------------------------------------------------------- Date: Sat, 3 Jan 1998 20:51:34 EST To: daugava@nothnbut.net From: SUPRDAVE@aol.com Subject: Re: 70cc bore kit experiences on the subject of engine rebuilds, and so forth, can anyone comment on the effects of high engine wear/failure while running at a high rpm? my brother and I have argued this before. I say even if a motor has a redline of 10,000rpm, the less you stay away from it, the longer the motor will last. my brother says it doesnt make any difference, since it's designed to run that fast. who is right? I assume (realistically) that the lower rpm a motor runs, the longer it will last. david Date: Sat, 03 Jan 1998 23:25:02 -0400 (EDT) To: <199801030125.TAA03380@mail.valuenet.net> From: mtliu@ccmail.sunysb.edu Subject: Re: 70cc all over again I have installed both a 60 cc kit and a 70 cc kit in a PUCH Maxi-Luxe: My original top speed was 25-27 mph My original fuel consumption was about 150 mpg... > Did you get a dramatic increase in acceleration from a dead stop? Yes-you can accellerate faster than cars > Did you get better hill climbing power? Yes-this is the primary reason I bought both kits > What is your top speed now? with the 60 cc - 37 mph with the 70 cc - 43 mph > Did your fuel economy seem to go down alot? Yes-down to about 90-110 mpg-I have to take the time to figure it out exactly > > and for anyone who installed the kit themselves: > > How difficult was it? (i am not too experienced mechanically) Pretty easy-however PUCH has manuals floating around and this made the whole thing alot easier-the hardest thing was putting the snap rings on the piston. After that, it's just screws and bolts. My first install took about 3 hours-I've got it down to under an hour (Biturbo-AMAL-Eurocylinder-the works)-don't sue me if you mess up your moped though. If you haven't any any experience tuning up stuff-you're probably going to have a hard time. Be prepared to get your cloths and your hands all black. > any special tools required? for the PUCH -no. A torque wrench helps though. > would you do it yourself again or just let a shop do it? I AM GOING TO DO IT AGAIN- in about 3 more weeks > were the instructions clear? What instructions-no instructions came with either kit. Good LUCk if you have any specific questions, feel free to e-mail me. I know that Lance from Andover Cycles (andover@aol.com) has 60 and 70 cc kits plus all sorts of other neat things like carb jets and sprockets. Steve from Steve's Moped and Bicycle World (mopedmoped@aol.com) has a 60cc kit that he installs. Steve also has lots of neat stuff. Lance is in Colorado and Steve is in New Jersey. --Mike Date: Sun, 4 Jan 1998 14:15:08 +0100 To: Subject: Re: 70cc bore kit experiences -----Oorspronkelijk bericht----- Van: daugava@nothnbut.net Onderwerp: Re: 70cc bore kit experiences >************************************************* >Date: Fri, 02 Jan 1998 13:46:01 -0800 >To: daugava@nothnbut.net >From: proof@idt.net >Subject: Re: 70cc bore kit experiences > > >daugava@nothnbut.net wrote: >> >> ************************************************* >> Date: Tue, 30 Dec 1997 23:19:00 -0800 (PST) >> To: Moped Mailing List >> Subject: Re: 70cc bore kit experiences >> >> > >> > Ok, i see. you say that rebuild of a 50 cc engine is cheap - around how >> > cheap. I know you cant give me an exact figure or anything. What i was >> > hoping to find were people who had actually run their peds for many tens >> > of thousands of miles. >> 50 and 80 cc dirt bikes have pistons that cost between $35-80, typically. >> Rings are another $20? A gasket set and a bore job is usually all that is >> necessary. Often, the ring seal goes away and all you need is a set of >> rings and a gasket set. If it's real high miles or you have a bad seizure >> then a new piston and a cylinder bore will be necessary. If it's real bad, >> you could need a new rod and/or bottom end bearings. Cost? Dirt bikers and >> 2 stroke road racers get used to tearing down and re-ringing their engines >> every couple of racing weekends- it takes them a couple of hours and a few >> bucks. >> >> > >> > The other reason that i was surprised that a moped engine needed to be >> > rebuilt after 13000 miles is that I have observed lawn mower and chain >> > saw engines lasting forever. I believe that these are the same type of >> > engines as on mopeds, no? And a lawn mower engine hardly gets any cooling >> > i would think. My brother has a lawn mower from the early 70s (sears). >> > It's still chugging. >> Those types of engines last for years but see very few hours of use. >> If your brother mowed his lawn weekly, and it took him an hour to do it, >> he would see 52 hours of use a year. If he bought it in 1970, he would >> have 1400 hours on and it. That's not even at the 1500 hours mean time >> before overhaul mark. If he's taken care of it, it could easily last a >> lot longer. Mean time between overhaul is the AVERAGE time. Half of the >> engines need overhaul sooner, half last longer. >> Lawn mower and chain saw engines have built in cooling fans and >> are usually cooled better than a typical moped set up. Long idle periods >> or long periods of slow speed operation are bad for mopeds from a cooling >> standpoint. >> 13000 miles is a lot of miles on your typical moped in the US. >> Most peds get used for a while after their owner gets it, then get garaged >> after the owner moves up to a car or bike. >> >> -Dave > > > >you mean move down to a car. Ok yes you are right about the lawn mower >times. I did not really think that through. Ok saw a moped engine rebuild >is not that big a deal cost wise apparently. So after such a rebuild, it >will last another 10k miles or so? Or is there a point at which it's not >worth doing anymore? About the problem of heat buildup during idling: >have you ever seen a retrofit of a fan hooked up to a moped like the >tomos? Would such a fan significantly increase engine life? I believe >most mopeds are being driven in "city" type riding - i.e., alot of idle >time at lights. > > > i have never seen an automatic with fan-cooler, only old gear-shift ped like zuendapp, kreidler, puch and tomos. Peter. Date: Sun, 4 Jan 1998 13:52:48 +0100 To: Subject: Re: (no subject) -----Oorspronkelijk bericht----- Van: daugava@nothnbut.net Onderwerp: Re: (no subject) >************************************************* >Date: Fri, 02 Jan 1998 13:48:51 -0800 >To: daugava@nothnbut.net >From: proof@idt.net >Subject: Re: (no subject) > > >daugava@nothnbut.net wrote: >> >> ************************************************* >> Date: Wed, 31 Dec 1997 07:28:15 -0500 >> To: halmc@talstar.com >> From: halmc@talstar.com >> Subject: (no subject) >> >> > Sorry, that is NOT >> > cheaper than mass transit. >> >> Whether it's cheaper than mass transit depends on whether you assign any >> value to your time. Mass transit gourges on your time, whereas the >> moped merely nibbles. >> >> Harold > > >No, that is not true at all. If you think about it, mass transit consumes >no time whatsoever because you can always read/sleep/work. Most of us >have all three of those to catch up on. So mass transit is infinately >fast in that sense. > > > you are right about the better time efficiency, but it is a hell for us indivdualists, waiting for a train to come with no influence at when at all. with everybody in one compartement, with no choice of your travel company.sudden unexpected and undefinable stops, and again no influence om the situation.. sorry nothing for me. Peter. Date: Sun, 4 Jan 1998 14:18:05 +0100 To: Subject: Re: 70cc bore kit experiences -----Oorspronkelijk bericht----- Van: daugava@nothnbut.net Onderwerp: Re: 70cc bore kit experiences >************************************************* >Date: Fri, 02 Jan 1998 14:18:34 -0800 >To: daugava@nothnbut.net >From: proof@idt.net >Subject: Re: 70cc bore kit experiences > > >daugava@nothnbut.net wrote: >> >> ************************************************* >> Date: Fri, 2 Jan 1998 14:23:23 EST >> To: daugava@nothnbut.net >> From: AaronM428@aol.com >> Subject: Re: 70cc bore kit experiences >> >> In a message dated 97-12-30 23:01:04 EST, you write: >> >> << Curious: Why did you stop using synthetic oil?>> >> >> Why start? First of all, good quality non-synthetic is $4 for 16oz, synthetic >> blend $4 for 8oz, full synthetic $5 for 8oz. Also, the engine does not smoke >> regardless of what type of oil is used, at least mine doesn't. Lastly I have >> never heard of verifyable (SP?) tests provong that synthetic is better for the >> engine than, here's the key, GOOD QUALITY "natural" oil. > > >yes i agree and also if you are ever thinking of doing any long distance touring on your >ped you have to be concerned about availability on the road. I think "natural" is alot >more available > > > When you think about long trails, take your own oil with you ! more available, doesn't mean available there and then ! and gas is in every passing car, and They are every where :-) Peter. Date: Sun, 4 Jan 1998 14:29:09 +0100 To: Subject: Re: 70cc bore kit experiences >> ************************************************* >> Date: Wed, 31 Dec 1997 15:28:14 EST >> To: daugava@nothnbut.net >> From: Huvz@aol.com >> Subject: Re: 70cc bore kit experiences >> >> My experience in trading small bikes, scooteres, and mopeds, tell me >> that at 1,500 miles or less the bikes tend to be in relatively good >> condition, and still have some power. >> At 2,000-3,000 miles it could go eitherway. Depending on how the bikes were >> treated, they could be good runner with some sign of wear (power loss), or a >> bike in need of rebuild. >> AT 4,000 miles plus - I figure it as a "hi-miler", and usually always are in >> need of rebuild, and cosmetic work as well. These bikes are usually missing >> parts, like side covers, etc. >> I rarely see these small bikes here in "cold weather" territory with more >> than 5,000 miles. ( Takes alot of summers to go 5,000 on one, we have 3-4 >> months of good riding weather here in summer) >> Hope this info proves helpful to you, >> Scott H > > >yes, thanks, very disturbing. But i was just reading about a guy who is >soon to go around the world on his vespa scooter. I think it's a 125 cc >So I guess what i need is a bigger engine?? Do they last longer? > > > longer time between total overhaul , yes. but larger parts, therfore more expensive so it won't do no good to the costs/mile sorry. compare moped vs motor bike (harley etc) and you will see that more cc is more money, less cc more work. what a wonderfull world. that is when cared for, but when you drive a car or ped and do no maintenance, buy and sell them a the proper points, it can be cheap too...even profitable if you have some selling talent ;) Bye, Peter Staal ---------------------------------------------------------------------- Email: staal@concepts.nl Home: http://home.concepts.nl/~staal ---------------------------------------------------------------------- Date: Sun, 4 Jan 1998 10:24:33 EST To: daugava@nothnbut.net From: Huvz@aol.com Subject: Re: Vintage Motor Bike Club those salsbury scooters are too cool. Designed by Northrup? aircraft co. Kind of look like a fuselage, too. Date: Mon, 5 Jan 1998 15:50:20 -0500 To: Moped Subject: ontario mopeding. so what's the deal with driving a moped in ontario?? what do you need? i went to the library and the recent information i could find was of 1989. In it it says you have to pay for registration, get a licence once a month, and have the cheapest kind of insurance. You also need a helmet with a chin strap that's motorcycle approved and a driving licence. This is the part i'm worried about. It says any licence will work. But this other guy said you need a M Class licence. I really don't think so, because the old 1989 book said ANY Class would work. I have a G licence, that will do right????? Date: Sun, 4 Jan 1998 12:35:19 EST To: daugava@nothnbut.net From: Huvz@aol.com Subject: Re: Overhaul experiences; was: 70cc bore kit experiences It is not necessarily a function of who made it so much, as it is who rode & maintained it. Here in the US most sccoters and mopeds fall into long periods of non-use. Then lots of "riggin" takes place to get em running by the next generation of kids in the family. If the bike survives it's ressurection, life is usually tough for them. They get flogged unmercifully by the kids (off road) until it stops running, and the "cycle" starts again. Generally, it is seldom that moped in the US gets regular use a transportation. The majority are purchased as an entertainment/recreation item. In effect a toy. Like lots of broken toys, they either get thrown away or forgotten. So 5,000 miles of this, and little or no maintenence (typically), next thing you know you have a parts bike. This applys to pedal type mopeds, as well as any "kid size motorcycle. Scott H Date: Sun, 04 Jan 1998 18:33:42 -0500 To: daugava@nothnbut.net From: paltron@interlog.com Subject: Re: What would be considered "cream of the crop" >TOMOS daugava@nothnbut.net wrote: > > Yeah fine Piaggio is great but you can't buy a new one here in the US so it's kind of > irrelevant. Just what is Piaggio's problem if a rinky dink outfit like tomos can sell > here? To understand how the minds work over in Europe, you have to understand first how they view North America. For them, having a huge, open market of 300 million + people, all in close proximity, a well built-up infrastructure and a more or less common set of traffic laws, they can sell everything back home they produce and some. They simply don't need us, the aggrevation to re-calibrate everything in imperial, meeting another set of standards, emission issues, and the rest. Too much bother. Tomos is thriving because they're small and somewhat flexible but all the mopeds they sell over here are US-only models. In Europe they're way back towards the end of the marketshare lineup. I'd love to see Piaggio come back, but they will not do it for just mopeds. Not big enough a market. Scooters and mopeds, maybe. Italjet is trying to do something too. We should have a common moped law (or small, under 50cc motorcycle/scooter law) across the Northern Hemisphere, including US and Canada. Fat chance. Date: Sun, 04 Jan 1998 23:24:07 -0600 To: daugava@nothnbut.net From: duckdogs@bright.net Subject: Subject Unknown subscribe Date: Tue, 06 Jan 1998 04:57:28 -0800 To: daugava@nothnbut.net From: proof@idt.net Subject: Re: 70cc bore kit experiences daugava@nothnbut.net wrote: > > ************************************************* > Date: Sat, 3 Jan 1998 14:49:30 EST > To: daugava@nothnbut.net > From: AaronM428@aol.com > Subject: Re: 70cc bore kit experiences > > In a message dated 98-01-02 20:32:22 EST, you write: > > << Ok, is the problem here the fact that it's only a 50 cc engine? Would say > an 80 cc engine have a much better long term cost profile? How about a 4 > stroke engine? >> > > Probably. Generally, Bigger Engine=More Power=Less Work. Because of the 50cc > engine's small size, it has to work harder to produce the same power as a > larger engine, the harder something works (humans included) the less time it > lasts. ok yes that is exactly what i thought- it just seems like common sense but a couple dealers said that its not so and saw no connection. thanks Date: Tue, 06 Jan 1998 05:10:40 -0800 To: daugava@nothnbut.net From: proof@idt.net Subject: Re: (no subject) daugava@nothnbut.net wrote: > > ************************************************* > Date: Sat, 3 Jan 1998 13:34:22 -0800 (PST) > To: Moped Mailing List > Subject: Re: (no subject) > > > > > No, that is not true at all. If you think about it, mass transit consumes > > no time whatsoever because you can always read/sleep/work. Most of us > > have all three of those to catch up on. So mass transit is infinately > > fast in that sense. > > Sorry, I don't agree. First, you try sleeping or working in a big city > mass transit with all the crips and bloods on it. 2nd, if I have to get up > early and take a 2 hour trip with a transfer stop in between to avoid a > trip that takes me 20 minutes by car- that's a waste of my time. Even if > I could be working or sleeping, I'D RATHER NOT BE. I have a bus stop about > 50 feet from my front door and there's another stop right at the plant > gate where I work. I've yet to use the bus because of the time issue. > I would even use it with a 5 or 10 minute time penalty but an hour and 40 > minutes, twice a day is worth a lot to me...and to most people too, > judging by the mass transit usage in this country. > > -Dave ok i hear ya. Sounds like you live in California. The transit is great here (nyc area) Date: Wed, 7 Jan 1998 20:25:59 -0500 To: daugava@nothnbut.net From: a.ghosh@utoronto.ca Subject: Re: Puch > >but the parts that i need for my 75 puch is that fuel switch, mine > >leaks, i need the left crank and the left crank nut bolt. the ones that > >i have are stripped of threads, and there's not enough material to > >re-thread > >them. > >Hey, one quick question, i'm a newbie to engines and mopeds and all, > >what > >are rings??? i've cleaned out the carbon and all. What should i do > >next. > >i'm looking around for a fuel switch, so i can test and to see if it > >starts. > > > to test if it starts , buy a longer fuel line / tube. and connect tank and > carb directly, if all's well the floater should prevent you from flooding, > so it is drivable ;) > > tip: is the crank not equal to a bikes ones, also available at the junkyard > or garbagedeposit? ya, tha's what i figured. just looking for a hose. approx how long do you does it have to be?? like how fast does it guzzle fuel? i say 40cm is enough, right. oh, bicycle cranks are not the same, i wish they were, that would help so much!!! - Alok Date: Tue, 06 Jan 1998 05:29:30 -0800 To: daugava@nothnbut.net From: proof@idt.net Subject: Re: 70cc bore kit experiences daugava@nothnbut.net wrote: > > ************************************************* > Date: Sun, 4 Jan 1998 14:18:05 +0100 > To: > Subject: Re: 70cc bore kit experiences > > -----Oorspronkelijk bericht----- > Van: daugava@nothnbut.net > Onderwerp: Re: 70cc bore kit experiences > > >************************************************* > >Date: Fri, 02 Jan 1998 14:18:34 -0800 > >To: daugava@nothnbut.net > >From: proof@idt.net > >Subject: Re: 70cc bore kit experiences > > > > > >daugava@nothnbut.net wrote: > >> > >> ************************************************* > >> Date: Fri, 2 Jan 1998 14:23:23 EST > >> To: daugava@nothnbut.net > >> From: AaronM428@aol.com > >> Subject: Re: 70cc bore kit experiences > >> > >> In a message dated 97-12-30 23:01:04 EST, you write: > >> > >> << Curious: Why did you stop using synthetic oil?>> > >> > >> Why start? First of all, good quality non-synthetic is $4 for 16oz, > synthetic > >> blend $4 for 8oz, full synthetic $5 for 8oz. Also, the engine does not > smoke > >> regardless of what type of oil is used, at least mine doesn't. Lastly I > have > >> never heard of verifyable (SP?) tests provong that synthetic is better > for the > >> engine than, here's the key, GOOD QUALITY "natural" oil. > > > > > >yes i agree and also if you are ever thinking of doing any long distance > touring on your > >ped you have to be concerned about availability on the road. I think > "natural" is alot > >more available > > > > > > > When you think about long trails, take your own oil with you ! more > available, doesn't mean available there and then ! and gas is in every > passing car, and They are every where :-) > Peter. yes and gas is in every parked car too :) Date: Tue, 06 Jan 1998 05:34:03 -0800 To: daugava@nothnbut.net From: proof@idt.net Subject: Re: What would be considered "cream of the crop" >TOMOS daugava@nothnbut.net wrote: > > ************************************************* > Date: Sun, 04 Jan 1998 18:33:42 -0500 > To: daugava@nothnbut.net > From: paltron@interlog.com > Subject: Re: What would be considered "cream of the crop" >TOMOS > > daugava@nothnbut.net wrote: > > > > > Yeah fine Piaggio is great but you can't buy a new one here in the US so it's kind of > > irrelevant. Just what is Piaggio's problem if a rinky dink outfit like tomos can sell > > here? > To understand how the minds work over in Europe, you have to understand > first how they view North America. For them, having a huge, open market > of 300 million + people, all in close proximity, a well built-up > infrastructure and a more or less common set of traffic laws, they can > sell everything back home they produce and some. They simply don't need > us, the aggrevation to re-calibrate everything in imperial, meeting > another set of standards, emission issues, and the rest. Too much > bother. Tomos is thriving because they're small and somewhat flexible > but all the mopeds they sell over here are US-only models. In Europe > they're way back towards the end of the marketshare lineup. > I'd love to see Piaggio come back, but they will not do it for just > mopeds. Not big enough a market. Scooters and mopeds, maybe. Italjet is > trying to do something too. > We should have a common moped law (or small, under 50cc > motorcycle/scooter law) across the Northern Hemisphere, including US and > Canada. Fat chance. yes there really is a euro mentality on that. It reminds me of Fiat withdrawing from the U.S. market about ten years ago. Fiat produces subcompact, inexpensive cars mostly. Shortly after they withdrew all the Japanese car makers converted to selling only ultra luxury. There has been almost no one selling affordable subcompacts for a long time. If Fiat had stuck it out a couple more years they would have been making plenty here. Date: Wed, 7 Jan 1998 20:20:44 -0500 To: daugava@nothnbut.net From: a.ghosh@utoronto.ca Subject: Re: oil+gas. daugava@nothnbut.net wrote: > > ************************************************* > Date: Sun, 4 Jan 1998 02:06:42 +0100 > To: > Subject: Re: oil+gas. > > -----Oorspronkelijk bericht----- > Van: daugava@nothnbut.net > Onderwerp: oil+gas. > > >************************************************* > >Date: Sat, 3 Jan 1998 16:50:40 -0500 > >To: Moped > >Subject: oil+gas. > > > > > >hi, ya i know i have to add in a mixture of gasoline and oil. > >I went to the local Canadian Tire to get some, on the moped > >it says to get "Two Stroke or Engine Oil sae 30-50". > >At Canadian Tire they got 2 bottles of engine oil. > >One is Engine Oil 30, the other is 50. > >What is the moped trying to tell me? that i can use > >30 OR 50, or like a special kind called 30-50 sorta like > >10w-30??? Or does it mean i can use between 30 and 50? > >so like a 40 will do? > >as you can see i'm pretty dumb, so can one of you point > >me in the direction of what to buy. > >Thanks. > > -- Alok from Toronto. > > > > > > > What kinda historic monster do you drive ? > now adays they use special mix oils, NO ENGINE OIL the 30 / 40 / 50 are the > same sae values as in 40-w50 and are a value for thickness of the liquid. > the sae value of mix oil is not relevant because it will be soluded in the > gas .( and become sae 1-w2 or some thing ) > look for 2-stroke oil, lawn mawer mix oil will do too, no outboard mix, > preferably, but i have a friend who swears on it , so it is usable for a > good time. its a 1975 Bombardiar Puch. I'm trying to get it working. I've fixed many things on it. So your saying instead of using sae 30-50 motor oil i can use 40w-50. you 100% on this? if so i'll go get that then. - Alok Date: Tue, 06 Jan 1998 18:34:52 -0500 To: chrislo@cfw.com From: chrislo@cfw.com Subject: Re: (no subject) if I have to get up early and take a 2 hour trip with a transfer stop in between to avoid a trip that takes me 20 minutes by car- that's a waste of my time. Even if I have a bus stop about 50 feet from my front door and there's another stop right at the plant gate where I work. an hour and 40 minutes, twice a day is worth a lot i had an 8 km (one-way) commute to work once. 17 german traffic lights got me there in about 20 minutes by car (pathetic 24 km/h) - too bad i had none. bus/train took over an hour. mopeds werent allowed on the expressway; the scenic route was another 4 kms extra. Date: Tue, 06 Jan 1998 18:52:21 -0500 To: chrislo@cfw.com From: chrislo@cfw.com Subject: euro pain > Here in the US most sccoters and mopeds fall into long periods of non-use. They get flogged unmercifully by the kids (off road) until it stops running. it is seldom that moped in the US gets regular use a > transportation. Like lots of broken toys, they either get thrown away or forgotten. So 5,000 miles of this, and little or no maintenence (typically), next thing you know you have a parts bike. they have no idea how much this hurts to have to watch as a kid without a bike. but even cars are routinely destroyed by their owners, people whose idea of maintenance is emptying the ashtray in the kmart parking lot (ever notice how filthy dollar store lots are (from atop your trusty moped that is)?) Date: Tue, 06 Jan 1998 19:54:19 -0500 To: daugava@nothnbut.net From: paltron@interlog.com Subject: Re: ontario mopeding. daugava@nothnbut.net wrote: > > ************************************************* > Date: Mon, 5 Jan 1998 15:50:20 -0500 > To: Moped > Subject: ontario mopeding. > > so what's the deal with driving a moped in ontario?? > what do you need? i went to the library and the recent > information i could find was of 1989. > In it it says you have to pay for registration, get > a licence once a month, and have the cheapest kind > of insurance. You also need a helmet with a chin strap > that's motorcycle approved and a driving licence. > This is the part i'm worried about. It says any > licence will work. But this other guy said you need > a M Class licence. I really don't think so, because > the old 1989 book said ANY Class would work. > I have a G licence, that will do right????? The current Ontario Highway Traffic Act regulates moped licensing requirements as follows: - G-licence is required, but no M1 or M2 needed - public liability insurance is mandatory - licence plate is mandatory - DOT (motorcycle) helmet is mandatory - safety is not required on transfer The moped itself must have a working headlight, taillight, 2 brakes (front and rear), kill-switch, horn and working pedals. It cannot have any form of manual transmission. Trust this helps. Date: Tue, 06 Jan 1998 19:59:34 -0500 To: daugava@nothnbut.net From: paltron@interlog.com Subject: Re: oil+gas. daugava@nothnbut.net wrote: > > ************************************************* > Date: Wed, 7 Jan 1998 20:20:44 -0500 > To: daugava@nothnbut.net > From: a.ghosh@utoronto.ca > Subject: Re: oil+gas. > > daugava@nothnbut.net wrote: > > > > ************************************************* > > Date: Sun, 4 Jan 1998 02:06:42 +0100 > > To: > > Subject: Re: oil+gas. > > > > -----Oorspronkelijk bericht----- > > Van: daugava@nothnbut.net > > Onderwerp: oil+gas. > > > > >************************************************* > > >Date: Sat, 3 Jan 1998 16:50:40 -0500 > > >To: Moped > > >Subject: oil+gas. > > > > > > > > >hi, ya i know i have to add in a mixture of gasoline and oil. > > >I went to the local Canadian Tire to get some, on the moped > > >it says to get "Two Stroke or Engine Oil sae 30-50". > > >At Canadian Tire they got 2 bottles of engine oil. > > >One is Engine Oil 30, the other is 50. > > >What is the moped trying to tell me? that i can use > > >30 OR 50, or like a special kind called 30-50 sorta like > > >10w-30??? Or does it mean i can use between 30 and 50? > > >so like a 40 will do? > > >as you can see i'm pretty dumb, so can one of you point > > >me in the direction of what to buy. > > >Thanks. > > > -- Alok from Toronto. > > > > > > > > > > > What kinda historic monster do you drive ? > > now adays they use special mix oils, NO ENGINE OIL the 30 / 40 / 50 are the > > same sae values as in 40-w50 and are a value for thickness of the liquid. > > the sae value of mix oil is not relevant because it will be soluded in the > > gas .( and become sae 1-w2 or some thing ) > > look for 2-stroke oil, lawn mawer mix oil will do too, no outboard mix, > > preferably, but i have a friend who swears on it , so it is usable for a > > good time. > its a 1975 Bombardiar Puch. I'm trying to get it working. I've fixed > many > things on it. So your saying instead of using sae 30-50 motor oil i can > use > 40w-50. you 100% on this? if so i'll go get that then. > - Alok no matter what anybody says, never ever use motoroil to pre-mix; it simply breaks down. Besides, the Puch is notoriously bent on overheating due to poor lubrication and if that happens you're done in. Date: Tue, 6 Jan 1998 20:21:30 EST To: daugava@nothnbut.net From: Huvz@aol.com Subject: Re: euro pain I have noticed that thing about the Dollar Store parking lot. Hmmmm..... Date: Wed, 7 Jan 1998 02:11:53 +0100 To: Subject: Re: 70cc bore kit experiences -----Oorspronkelijk bericht----- Van: daugava@nothnbut.net Onderwerp: Re: 70cc bore kit experiences >************************************************* >Date: Sat, 3 Jan 1998 14:49:30 EST >To: daugava@nothnbut.net >From: AaronM428@aol.com >Subject: Re: 70cc bore kit experiences > > >In a message dated 98-01-02 20:32:22 EST, you write: > ><< Ok, is the problem here the fact that it's only a 50 cc engine? Would say >an 80 cc engine have a much better long term cost profile? How about a 4 >stroke engine? >> > >Probably. Generally, Bigger Engine=More Power=Less Work. Because of the 50cc >engine's small size, it has to work harder to produce the same power as a >larger engine, the harder something works (humans included) the less time it >lasts. > > > WARNING: so when changing from 50 to 80 cc on the same motorblock, wear and tear will approx. double !! (on the crackshaft at least, and still in the constr. limits, but never the less....) Peter. Date: Wed, 7 Jan 1998 02:23:10 +0100 To: Subject: Re: 70cc bore kit experiences -----Oorspronkelijk bericht----- Van: daugava@nothnbut.net Onderwerp: Re: 70cc bore kit experiences >************************************************* >Date: Sat, 3 Jan 1998 20:51:34 EST >To: daugava@nothnbut.net >From: SUPRDAVE@aol.com >Subject: Re: 70cc bore kit experiences > > >on the subject of engine rebuilds, and so forth, can anyone comment on the >effects of high engine wear/failure while running at a high rpm? my brother >and I have argued this before. I say even if a motor has a redline of >10,000rpm, the less you stay away from it, the longer the motor will last. my >brother says it doesnt make any difference, since it's designed to run that >fast. who is right? I assume (realistically) that the lower rpm a motor runs, >the longer it will last. > > >david > > > You are right, it is the difference between walking and running, you are also designed for both ....one you can do much longer. Peter. Date: Tue, 6 Jan 1998 20:44:50 EST To: daugava@nothnbut.net From: Huvz@aol.com Subject: Re: Solex Moped Tony, You have a picture? I would like to see it. Scott H Trades? Date: Tue, 6 Jan 1998 21:10:02 -0800 To: Subject: Re: motorized bike for 8 year old I don't know where you are located, but the average new moped will cost from $695 to $1395, small dirt bikes are all over $1000 and go-karts will start around $500. If you are near the southern ohio area, give me a call at 614-533-2266 ask for Tony. I sell mopeds, bikes and small atvs. -----Original Message----- From: daugava@nothnbut.net Subject: Fw: motorized bike for 8 year old >************************************************* >Date: Sat, 3 Jan 1998 13:13:17 -0600 >To: "Mailing List" >Subject: Fw: motorized bike for 8 year old > > >----- reply Bruce C. Zangwill > What is the cost range of motorized bikes or go-karts for my son , who is > almost eight years old? > > > > Date: Tue, 6 Jan 1998 21:13:28 -0800 To: Subject: Re: Solex Moped Thanks for the response. However, it is in too good of condition to sell it so cheap. I'll hang on to it, it does get a lot of attention in my store. Tony -----Original Message----- From: daugava@nothnbut.net Subject: Re: Solex Moped >************************************************* >Date: Sat, 3 Jan 1998 13:08:29 EST >To: daugava@nothnbut.net >From: MaytagTwin@aol.com >Subject: Re: Solex Moped > > >In a message dated 98-01-03 11:59:12 EST, you write: > ><< Subj: Solex Moped > Date: 98-01-03 11:59:12 EST > From: daugava@nothnbut.net > Reply-to: daugava@nothnbut.net > To: daugava@nothnbut.net (Moped Mailing List) > > ************************************************* > Date: Sat, 3 Jan 1998 07:38:50 -0800 > To: "Solex Mopeds" > Subject: Solex Moped > > > I have a Solex Moped in absolutely 100% original condition. > I believe it is a 1964 S3800, it has a plaque that says "made in france". > Has all tools, air pump, original tires, plug, etc. > The engine runs and the lights work. > Has a few small scratches, but nothing serious. > > I would appreciate your opinion concerning it's value. > Please let me know what you think. > > Thanks, Tony > >> >Tony, >How about $150 + shipping? >Ron >Nokesville, Virginia > > > Date: Tue, 6 Jan 1998 21:15:03 -0800 To: Subject: Re: velosolex I have a S3800, I just bought it for a conversation piece to sit in my store. It does attract a lot of attention. Tony -----Original Message----- From: daugava@nothnbut.net Subject: Fw: velosolex >---------- reply to Peter Wibmer > Hi! > > I'm owning some mopeds and would like to come in contact with folk, > owning the same types: > KTM Ponny II > Puch VS 50 > Velosolex 1400 > Velosolex 2200 > Velosolex 3800 > Especially do I need a repair-booklet for the 1400 Velosolex > > Peter from Austria > > Date: Thu, 8 Jan 1998 00:58:38 -0500 To: daugava@nothnbut.net From: a.ghosh@utoronto.ca Subject: Re: ontario mopeding. daugava@nothnbut.net wrote: > > ************************************************* > Date: Tue, 06 Jan 1998 19:54:19 -0500 > To: daugava@nothnbut.net > From: paltron@interlog.com > Subject: Re: ontario mopeding. > > daugava@nothnbut.net wrote: > > > > ************************************************* > > Date: Mon, 5 Jan 1998 15:50:20 -0500 > > To: Moped > > Subject: ontario mopeding. > > > > so what's the deal with driving a moped in ontario?? > > what do you need? i went to the library and the recent > > information i could find was of 1989. > > In it it says you have to pay for registration, get > > a licence once a month, and have the cheapest kind > > of insurance. You also need a helmet with a chin strap > > that's motorcycle approved and a driving licence. > > This is the part i'm worried about. It says any > > licence will work. But this other guy said you need > > a M Class licence. I really don't think so, because > > the old 1989 book said ANY Class would work. > > I have a G licence, that will do right????? > The current Ontario Highway Traffic Act regulates moped licensing > requirements as follows: > - G-licence is required, but no M1 or M2 needed > - public liability insurance is mandatory > - licence plate is mandatory > - DOT (motorcycle) helmet is mandatory > - safety is not required on transfer > The moped itself must have a working headlight, taillight, 2 brakes > (front and rear), kill-switch, horn and working pedals. It cannot have > any form of manual transmission. > Trust this helps. whoa, you just told me everything i needed to know about mopeding. i got all of the above except for a G class, but i have my G1, im only 16. that will do right? Anyways i'll hopefully be getting my G2 in 2 weeks or so. Thank you very much. - Alok Date: Tue, 06 Jan 1998 11:14:28 -0800 To: daugava@nothnbut.net From: proof@idt.net Subject: Re: (no subject) daugava@nothnbut.net wrote: > > ************************************************* > Date: Tue, 06 Jan 1998 18:34:52 -0500 > To: chrislo@cfw.com > From: chrislo@cfw.com > Subject: Re: (no subject) > > if I have to get up early and take a 2 hour trip with a transfer stop in > between to avoid a trip that takes me 20 minutes by car- that's a waste > of my time. Even if I have a bus stop about 50 feet from my front door > and there's another stop right at the plant gate where I work. an hour > and 40 minutes, twice a day is worth a lot > > i had an 8 km (one-way) commute to work once. 17 german traffic lights > got me there in about 20 minutes by car (pathetic 24 km/h) - too bad i > had none. bus/train took over an hour. mopeds werent allowed on the > expressway; the scenic route was another 4 kms extra. ok the hour and 40 minute bus trip sounds pretty extreme. But this reminds me of an interesting way of thinking about all this. If you look at the total cost of operation of a car over a long period of time and then calculate the number of hours that you have to work to cover that cost, then add those hours to your total travel time and then you can figure out your real speed. For the average car this usually comes out to about 3 miles per hour! Certainly puts the convenience and speed of a car in a different light. This same calculation can be done for any mode of transport and i believe that the moped or scooter comes out as the fastest mode by far. All the flexibility and most of the "speed" of a car but with almost none of the cost. Probably the bicycle is pretty fast too but the slow "speeds" are not too practical. Date: Tue, 06 Jan 1998 23:31:23 -0600 (CST) To: cyclepro@evansville.net From: cyclepro@evansville.net Subject: Re: Tomos Targa LX 70cc bore kit experiences On Tue, 6 Jan, daugava@nothnbut.net wrote... >************************************************* >Date: Sat, 3 Jan 1998 13:17:57 -0800 (PST) >Are you an Engineer or do you repair small engines for a living? If those >small 2 strokers are really designed for 500 hours TBO then your customers >8000 mile Honda 50 is right in that neighorhood for an overhaul. It should > I have a diverse practical engineering background, I hold an airline transport rating pilot certificate( I stoped counting at) 10Khrs PIC Pilot in Command, I am an "X" air carrier company owner. My son Scott (a graduate mechanical engineer) and I currently own a small independant cycle shop. We do anything from repairing bicycles to designing from scratch and build the engine of you dreams. Our only known limits are social and financialy imposed. I am not saying we are geniuses but at least we know the ground rules and we make it a point break them if we get a chance. MOPEDS are great! but think about this. It is 16hrs. to the moon and that includes 1 orbit around the earth. The Wright Brother and Mr.Harley & Mr. Davidson began with bicycles and went foward. I for some reasons I don't yet understand have taken the revurse course. .........................................GREG > > Date: Tue, 06 Jan 1998 23:52:22 -0600 (CST) To: cyclepro@evansville.net From: cyclepro@evansville.net Subject: Re: fw: motored bicycle: Follow up We called the number on the write-up with the picture. I was interested in what make of power plant was being used and may be getting a dealership. We got an evasive answer as to the type of engine being used. THe bike is availadle in kit form for a little over $1700 and a fully assembled version is also available. As I remember it was around $2300. The manufacture does not plan on establishing a dealer net work. My impression is this project won't get off the ground. If the product is as indicated in the write up and they are making money at the posted number, it would seem to be viable for mass marketing, but it appears they have no desire to follow through. .................................GREG DOUGAN On Tue, 6 Jan, daugava@nothnbut.net wrote... >************************************************* >Date: Sat, 03 Jan 1998 15:52:34 -0600 (CST) >To: cyclepro@evansville.net >From: cyclepro@evansville.net >Subject: Re: fw: motored bicycle > > >Thanks Andrew, > >I checked out the picture and I love the way this thing looks. I am going >to call the number next week for more details and pricing. The picture >looks somewhat like an old Harley Hummer. > > GREG > > >On Sat, 3 Jan, daugava@nothnbut.net wrote... >>************************************************* >>Date: Sat, 3 Jan 1998 10:33:11 -0600 >>To: "Mailing List" >>Subject: fw: motored bicycle >> >> >>------- reply to David G Wood >>> Andrei, >>> Attached is motored.jpg. It's a scanned image of the article on >>> the 10 HP engined bicycle type scooter. I found it in the June 1997 issue >>> of Motorcyclist Magazine, p. 22. If the image is unclear, or if you can't >>> view jpegs for some reason, let me know and I'll forward the address and >>> phone number of the manufacturer. >>> >>> -Dave >>The picture is at /d/moped/motored.jpg >> >>Andrew >> >> >> > > > Date: Tue, 6 Jan 1998 23:53:05 -0800 (PST) To: Moped Mailing List Subject: Re: 70cc bore kit experiences > > << Ok, is the problem here the fact that it's only a 50 cc engine? Would say > an 80 cc engine have a much better long term cost profile? How about a 4 > stroke engine? >> > > Probably. Generally, Bigger Engine=More Power=Less Work. Because of the 50cc > engine's small size, it has to work harder to produce the same power as a > larger engine, the harder something works (humans included) the less time it > lasts. THe only problem with a larger engine is that you lose the tax and licensing advantages of a moped. That may add significantly to the ownership cost. Of course you could opt to enlarge your 50cc(and not tell anyone) engine but that may not get you any extra reliability. -Dave Date: Tue, 6 Jan 1998 23:58:26 -0800 (PST) To: Moped Mailing List Subject: Re: Fw: motorized bike for 8 year old > Subject: Fw: motorized bike for 8 year old > > > ----- reply Bruce C. Zangwill > What is the cost range of motorized bikes or go-karts for my son , who is > almost eight years old? Manco is the largest US maker and distributer of "fun karts" and mini bikes. THe cheapest mini bike is nearly $600. The fun kart is about the same. There are sites that sell Manco's on the web. Do a search for Manco fun kart, and you should be set. -Dave Date: Wed, 7 Jan 1998 00:00:47 -0800 (PST) To: Moped Mailing List Subject: Re: hello > Subject: Re: hello > > On Sat, 3 Jan 1998 proof@idt.net wrote: > > Dont worry dude, if she dont want to date you cuz you are smart enough > > to live without a car tell her to go ride a moped. > > As a teenager I sold my car to buy a Vespa 200cc scooter. My friends all > said I was nuts, that I'd lose dates with girls. I can say I did lose a > few, but I also got just as many with cool girls that appreciated my > scooter, which was better in my opinion. ; ) > > ~ Danny ~ My Vespa never got me any dates but that could be a personality thing! -Dave Date: Wed, 7 Jan 1998 00:08:30 -0800 (PST) To: Moped Mailing List Subject: Re: 70cc bore kit experiences > on the subject of engine rebuilds, and so forth, can anyone comment on the > effects of high engine wear/failure while running at a high rpm? my brother > and I have argued this before. I say even if a motor has a redline of > 10,000rpm, the less you stay away from it, the longer the motor will last. my > brother says it doesnt make any difference, since it's designed to run that > fast. who is right? I assume (realistically) that the lower rpm a motor runs, > the longer it will last. > > > david You are right, the faster an engine spins, the sooner it wears. Rubbing friction varies with the cube of the velocity that the surfaces rub together. Double your rpm, the friction increases 8 fold. -Dave Date: Wed, 7 Jan 1998 11:33:06 EST To: daugava@nothnbut.net From: SNELLORAMA@aol.com Subject: manual for kreidler moped I recently bought a kreidler moped year unknown. I found it at a garage sale at very reasonable price and in very good condition,but running. After taking the carb apart and cleaning everything out it runs very well, it just won't idle and at higher speeds hesitates when you give it gas. I'm trying to find out if there is possibly a way to find a manual for my bike. PLEASE HELP RUDY BUCKNER Date: Wed, 07 Jan 1998 12:30:53 -0500 To: daugava@nothnbut.net From: 6828t@bright.net Subject: Re: 70cc bore kit experiences --------------8FEAE0F9EA0C55C9F6D37E65 Content-Type: text/plain; charset=x-user-defined Content-Transfer-Encoding: 8bit would say it is all up to how rides them. If you flog the h--- out of the 80cc it will wear out just as fast as the 50cc . daugava@nothnbut.net wrote: > ************************************************* > Date: Tue, 06 Jan 1998 04:57:28 -0800 > To: daugava@nothnbut.net > From: proof@idt.net > Subject: Re: 70cc bore kit experiences > > daugava@nothnbut.net wrote: > > > > ************************************************* > > Date: Sat, 3 Jan 1998 14:49:30 EST > > To: daugava@nothnbut.net > > From: AaronM428@aol.com > > Subject: Re: 70cc bore kit experiences > > > > In a message dated 98-01-02 20:32:22 EST, you write: > > > > << Ok, is the problem here the fact that it's only a 50 cc engine? Would say > > an 80 cc engine have a much better long term cost profile? How about a 4 > > stroke engine? >> > > > > Probably. Generally, Bigger Engine=More Power=Less Work. Because of the 50cc > > engine's small size, it has to work harder to produce the same power as a > > larger engine, the harder something works (humans included) the less time it > > lasts. > > ok yes that is exactly what i thought- it just seems like common sense > but a couple dealers said that its not so and saw no connection. thanks --------------8FEAE0F9EA0C55C9F6D37E65 Content-Type: text/html; charset=x-user-defined Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit would say it is all up to how rides them. If you flog the h--- out of the 80cc it will wear out just as fast as the 50cc . daugava@nothnbut.net wrote: ************************************************* --------------8FEAE0F9EA0C55C9F6D37E65-- Date: Wed, 07 Jan 1998 12:45:45 -0500 To: daugava@nothnbut.net From: 6828t@bright.net Subject: Re: oil+gas. Just use a good brand of 2 cycle oil, and make sure that the gas you use does not have alcohol in it. Don't know if you have that problem up north of us. A good oil is a good oil I used a straight weight oil in may chain saw one time that is all it took, burned the engine to the ground. What ever brand of moped you have , don't they have a brand of oil they recommend. I buy one brand for all my two cycle oil for my moped ,chain saw, weedeater, I've had them all for years!!! Thank You Bob Taylor daugava@nothnbut.net wrote: > ************************************************* > Date: Wed, 7 Jan 1998 20:20:44 -0500 > To: daugava@nothnbut.net > From: a.ghosh@utoronto.ca > Subject: Re: oil+gas. > > daugava@nothnbut.net wrote: > > > > ************************************************* > > Date: Sun, 4 Jan 1998 02:06:42 +0100 > > To: > > Subject: Re: oil+gas. > > > > -----Oorspronkelijk bericht----- > > Van: daugava@nothnbut.net > > Onderwerp: oil+gas. > > > > >************************************************* > > >Date: Sat, 3 Jan 1998 16:50:40 -0500 > > >To: Moped > > >Subject: oil+gas. > > > > > > > > >hi, ya i know i have to add in a mixture of gasoline and oil. > > >I went to the local Canadian Tire to get some, on the moped > > >it says to get "Two Stroke or Engine Oil sae 30-50". > > >At Canadian Tire they got 2 bottles of engine oil. > > >One is Engine Oil 30, the other is 50. > > >What is the moped trying to tell me? that i can use > > >30 OR 50, or like a special kind called 30-50 sorta like > > >10w-30??? Or does it mean i can use between 30 and 50? > > >so like a 40 will do? > > >as you can see i'm pretty dumb, so can one of you point > > >me in the direction of what to buy. > > >Thanks. > > > -- Alok from Toronto. > > > > > > > > > > > What kinda historic monster do you drive ? > > now adays they use special mix oils, NO ENGINE OIL the 30 / 40 / 50 are the > > same sae values as in 40-w50 and are a value for thickness of the liquid. > > the sae value of mix oil is not relevant because it will be soluded in the > > gas .( and become sae 1-w2 or some thing ) > > look for 2-stroke oil, lawn mawer mix oil will do too, no outboard mix, > > preferably, but i have a friend who swears on it , so it is usable for a > > good time. > its a 1975 Bombardiar Puch. I'm trying to get it working. I've fixed > many > things on it. So your saying instead of using sae 30-50 motor oil i can > use > 40w-50. you 100% on this? if so i'll go get that then. > - Alok Date: Wed, 7 Jan 1998 13:28:19 -0600 (CST) To: Moped Mailing List Subject: Breaker point gap for 1975 Batavus VA50 Hello fellow 'peds! I am getting ready for next season's riding (only 4 months away when you live in Winnipeg), and I am wondering what the CORRECT breaker point gap is for a 1975 Batavus VA50. So those of you out there with real manuals, please look it up. Also, as a general inquiry if anyone has Batavus parts they don't need I wouldn't mind collecting a few for insurance into the next millennium. I realize shipping to Canada could be a problem, but I have freinds in Minneapolis. If mopeds had tire chains I'd be riding now! A. J. Hunter email: ahunter@cc.umanitoba.ca Department of Psychology University of Manitoba "Back off man, I'm a scientist." Winnipeg, MB, R3T 2N2 - Dr. Peter Venkman, Ghostbuster Date: Wed, 07 Jan 1998 16:15:36 -0500 To: chrislo@cfw.com From: chrislo@cfw.com Subject: to and fro > > > > i had an 8 km (one-way) commute to work once. > > ok the hour and 40 minute bus trip sounds pretty extreme. But this reminds me of an > interesting way of thinking about all this. If you look at the total cost of operation > of a car over a long period of time and then calculate the number of hours that you have> to work to cover that cost, then add those hours to your total travel time and then you> can figure out your real speed. Probably the bicycle is pretty fast > too but the slow "speeds" are not too practical. you can use one or the other means of transportation depending on weather, "short" working week (=cheaper fares), etc. but ive never lived anywhere where a bus passed my house and went right by my job, it was always a bother. Date: Wed, 07 Jan 1998 22:10:27 +0100 To: Subject: Re: Engine Life Exptations At 08:49 6-01-98 -0500, GREG wrote: >HANS, It souund like we are getting a wide range of operationa conditions >that are having varing effects on engine life. Probably... >In the USA it seems that alot of riders run around at full throttle most of >the time. Some think these little machines ought to be able to pull long >steep grades riding double. That's the same over here, we thought of fitting on/off switches instead of a gas-handle for our customers ;-) We actually have seen a guy riding up a steep hill with two friends on his scooter, on which we did a total rebuild the day before ;-) And yes, we do tell them to take it easy the first 500 Km... >We have a lot of 50cc Honda Elites here and they almost never see 10000 mi. Amazing, I thought these things were really idiot-proof. And believe me, I have seen my share of idiots on mopeds... I see now, that with brutal force, utter neglect and of course total ignorance the mopeds can't reach such mileages >What is your opinion of the PUCH MAXI? I haven't seen ant of the late ones Puch Maxi as such have no appeal to me whatsoever. As a simple, basic form of transport they do nicely though. Over here in the Netherlands the Honda's last longer then Puch maxi's, this can be related to the kind of people who rode these things.. >yet but I have several high mile old ones here in town that really seem to >deliver excellent service. Last summer I toped one for a lady that rides >every day it had over 17000 miles showing! >I am worndering if the late ones will be as good. NO, How good they are depends on which one. They are produced in Italy (Piaggio factory) and in Poland (Manet factory). As can be read in my earlier posting, I am not too enthousiast about machinery from ex- or communist countries. Not because of their political motivations, but because of the s**tty mopeds they make... The new Puch engine gives no trouble (so far) on both machines, but the finish sure is not what it used to be when these mopeds were manufactured in Austria. The Manet has the worst finish. Cheers, Hans Hartman Date: Wed, 07 Jan 1998 16:19:33 -0500 To: chrislo@cfw.com From: chrislo@cfw.com Subject: manual for kreidler moped daugava@nothnbut.net wrote: > > ************************************************* > Date: Wed, 7 Jan 1998 11:33:06 EST > To: daugava@nothnbut.net > From: SNELLORAMA@aol.com > Subject: manual for kreidler moped > > I recently bought a kreidler moped year unknown. I found it at a garage sale> at very reasonable price and in very good condition,but running. After taking the carb apart and cleaning everything out it runs very well, it just won't idle and at higher speeds hesitates when you give it gas. I'm trying to find out if there is possibly a way to find a manual for my bike. > PLEASE HELP > RUDY BUCKNER what kind of kreidler is it? a flory perhaps? where do you live (cuz: how did it get there i wonder)? theres a german kreidler website out there, but that probably wont help much. maybe folks can walk you through the carb. Date: Wed, 07 Jan 1998 16:22:47 -0500 To: chrislo@cfw.com From: chrislo@cfw.com Subject: Re: oil+gas. so here were talking about trashing mopeds and already theres talk about using anything and everything except the right oil :-D now these are true mopedeers. try model airplane fluid instead of gas, you dont ya! Date: Wed, 7 Jan 1998 13:37:56 -0800 (PST) To: Moped Mailing List Subject: Re: fw: motored bicycle: Follow up > Subject: Re: fw: motored bicycle: Follow up > > > We called the number on the write-up with the picture. I was interested in > what make of power plant was being used and may be getting a dealership. We > got an evasive answer as to the type of engine being used. THe bike is > availadle in kit form for a little over $1700 and a fully assembled version > is also available. As I remember it was around $2300. The manufacture does > not plan on establishing a dealer net work. My impression is this project > won't get off the ground. If the product is as indicated in the write up > and they are making money at the posted number, it would seem to be viable > for mass marketing, but it appears they have no desire to follow through. > > ................................GREG DOUGAN > 10 HP Tecumseh engines can be had for as little as $350 from Northern, with electric start. Briggs and Stratton are somewhat more expensive. Did they say what kind of bicycle frame and running gear that they are using? A 10HP, street legal motorbike for $2300 doesn't seem bad. More than once, I've been in a bicycle shop and seen a mountain bike with with front and rear suspension and thought,"boy, put an engine on that thing and you'd have something!". Now that they have hydraulic disc brakes and large front axles available it might be a reasonable thing to do. -Dave Date: Wed, 7 Jan 1998 13:40:13 -0800 (PST) To: Moped Mailing List Subject: Re: Tomos Targa LX 70cc bore kit experiences > It is 16hrs. to the moon and that includes 1 > orbit around the earth. The Wright Brother and Mr.Harley & Mr. Davidson > began with bicycles and went foward. I for some reasons I don't yet > understand have taken the revurse course. > > ........................................GREG "Are we not men? We are DEVO!" -Devo -Dave Date: Wed, 7 Jan 1998 14:39:31 -0800 (PST) To: Moped Mailing List Subject: Re: Breaker point gap for 1975 Batavus VA50 > If mopeds had tire > chains I'd be riding now! > > A. J. Hunter email: ahunter@cc.umanitoba.ca > Department of Psychology > University of Manitoba "Back off man, I'm a scientist." > Winnipeg, MB, R3T 2N2 - Dr. Peter Venkman, Ghostbuster There's always studded ice racing tires ;) -Dave Date: Wed, 07 Jan 1998 21:45:13 -0600 To: Charles A Rogers Subject: 1982(or83) Batavus Starflite Hi everybody! This is my first post to here. I have a 1982(or83) Batavus Starflite 30MPH. I'm looking to hot rod it, sort of. And also add 3 speeds to it. If anyone has info or suggestions for these projects or detailed info on this kind of moped I'd appreciate it a lot. Thanks Dave Rogers roger035@gold.tc.umn.edu Date: Wed, 7 Jan 1998 23:17:27 -0800 To: Subject: Re: Solex Moped I don't have a picture of the solex. It would be a good idea to take a few. Not really interested in selling it as I am a moped dealer and it attracts some attention in my store. It is black with gold stripes on the rear fender, chrome bar and rims. The neat thing was that it actually ran after we put fresh gas in it, the lights even work. I will probably keep it around as it should go up in value over the years. Thanks for your interest. Tony -----Original Message----- From: daugava@nothnbut.net Subject: Re: Solex Moped >************************************************* >Date: Tue, 6 Jan 1998 20:44:50 EST >To: daugava@nothnbut.net >From: Huvz@aol.com >Subject: Re: Solex Moped > > > Tony, You have a picture? I would like to see it. >Scott H Trades? > > > Date: Thu, 8 Jan 1998 09:59:22 -0600 To: "Mailing List" Subject: UNKNOWN MOPED ------- reply to Dagfinn Johnsen Hello! Have you seen this moped before? ( /d/moped/Mop.jpg ) I think it is about 40 year old,but I dont know the name.Could someone help? Dagfinn Johnsen. Date: Thu, 8 Jan 1998 10:13:15 -0600 To: "Mailing List" Subject: Motobecane advice -------- reply to B. Cole Bennett Hello again, I just found a moped for sale, and I would like your opinion on it as I am not familiar with it: a 1978 Motobecane moblyette moped with a long seat. Is this a reputable brand and a good machine? The seller says it's in great condition. I am interested in your input. Thank you, Cole Bennett Date: Thu, 8 Jan 1998 12:11:57 -0600 To: "Mailing List" Subject: URL: June 98 - From Seattle to Tampa on a moped http://www.cdlc.com/record/part.htm Date: Thu, 08 Jan 1998 16:31:00 -0500 To: daugava@nothnbut.net From: paltron@interlog.com Subject: Re: manual for kreidler moped daugava@nothnbut.net wrote: > > ************************************************* > Date: Wed, 07 Jan 1998 16:19:33 -0500 > To: chrislo@cfw.com > From: chrislo@cfw.com > Subject: manual for kreidler moped > > daugava@nothnbut.net wrote: > > > > ************************************************* > > Date: Wed, 7 Jan 1998 11:33:06 EST > > To: daugava@nothnbut.net > > From: SNELLORAMA@aol.com > > Subject: manual for kreidler moped > > > > I recently bought a kreidler moped year unknown. I found it at a garage sale> at very reasonable price and in very good condition,but running. After taking the carb apart and cleaning everything out it runs very well, it just won't idle and at higher speeds hesitates when you give it gas. I'm trying to find out if there is possibly a way to find a manual for my bike. > > PLEASE HELP > > RUDY BUCKNER > > what kind of kreidler is it? a flory perhaps? where do you live (cuz: > how did it get there i wonder)? > theres a german kreidler website out there, but that probably wont help > much. maybe folks can walk you through the carb. Here's the address: http://home.pi.net/~mho1/ Date: Thu, 08 Jan 1998 16:34:23 -0500 To: daugava@nothnbut.net From: paltron@interlog.com Subject: Re: Solex Moped This is a multi-part message in MIME format. --------------59BA72B07870 Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit daugava@nothnbut.net wrote: > > ************************************************* > Date: Wed, 7 Jan 1998 23:17:27 -0800 > To: > Subject: Re: Solex Moped > > I don't have a picture of the solex. It would be a good idea to take a few. > Not really interested in selling it as I am a moped dealer and it attracts > some attention in my store. It is black with gold stripes on the rear > fender, chrome bar and rims. The neat thing was that it actually ran after > we put fresh gas in it, the lights even work. I will probably keep it around > as it should go up in value over the years. Thanks for your interest. Tony > -----Original Message----- > From: daugava@nothnbut.net > Subject: Re: Solex Moped > > >************************************************* > >Date: Tue, 6 Jan 1998 20:44:50 EST > >To: daugava@nothnbut.net > >From: Huvz@aol.com > >Subject: Re: Solex Moped > > > > > > Tony, You have a picture? I would like to see it. > >Scott H Trades? > > > > > > Here's a pic of a Solex 3800 mpunted on a Schwinn bike. Should look fairly close to the one in question. ANDREW: The picture is at /d/moped/mop-solex.jpg Date: Thu, 08 Jan 1998 16:47:41 -0500 To: daugava@nothnbut.net From: paltron@interlog.com Subject: Re: Motobecane advice daugava@nothnbut.net wrote: > > ************************************************* > Date: Thu, 8 Jan 1998 10:13:15 -0600 > To: "Mailing List" > Subject: Motobecane advice > > -------- reply to B. Cole Bennett > Hello again, > > I just found a moped for sale, and I would like your opinion on it as I > am not familiar with it: a 1978 Motobecane moblyette moped with a long > seat. Is this a reputable brand and a good machine? The seller says > it's in great condition. I am interested in your input. > > Thank you, > > Cole Bennett Yes, yes, and again, yes. Take it before someone else does. Date: Thu, 08 Jan 1998 16:30:41 -0600 (CST) To: cyclepro@evansville.net From: cyclepro@evansville.net Subject: Re: Engine Life Exptations On Thu, 8 Jan, daugava@nothnbut.net wrote... >************************************************* >Date: Wed, 07 Jan 1998 22:10:27 +0100 >To: >Subject: Re: Engine Life Exptations > > >At 08:49 6-01-98 -0500, GREG wrote: > >>HANS, It souund like we are getting a wide range of operationa conditions >>that are having varing effects on engine life. > >Probably... > >>In the USA it seems that alot of riders run around at full throttle most of >>the time. Some think these little machines ought to be able to pull long >>steep grades riding double. > >That's the same over here, we thought of fitting on/off switches instead of >a gas-handle for our customers ;-) >We actually have seen a guy riding up a steep hill with two friends on his >scooter, on which we did a total rebuild the day before ;-) And yes, we do >tell them to take it easy the first 500 Km... > >>We have a lot of 50cc Honda Elites here and they almost never see 10000 mi. > >Amazing, I thought these things were really idiot-proof. >And believe me, I have seen my share of idiots on mopeds... >I see now, that with brutal force, utter neglect and of course total >ignorance the mopeds can't reach such mileages > >>What is your opinion of the PUCH MAXI? I haven't seen ant of the late ones > >Puch Maxi as such have no appeal to me whatsoever. As a simple, basic form >of transport they do nicely though. Over here in the Netherlands the >Honda's last longer then Puch maxi's, this can be related to the kind of >people who rode these things.. > >>yet but I have several high mile old ones here in town that really seem to >>deliver excellent service. Last summer I toped one for a lady that rides >>every day it had over 17000 miles showing! > >>I am worndering if the late ones will be as good. > >NO, >How good they are depends on which one. They are produced in Italy (Piaggio >factory) and in Poland (Manet factory). As can be read in my earlier >posting, I am not too enthousiast about machinery from ex- or communist >countries. Not because of their political motivations, but because of the >s**tty mopeds they make... > >The new Puch engine gives no trouble (so far) on both machines, but the >finish sure is not what it used to be when these mopeds were manufactured >in Austria. The Manet has the worst finish. > > >Cheers, > > > >Hans Hartman > > > HANS......I APPRECIATE YOUR OPINION......THANKS, GREG Date: Thu, 8 Jan 1998 16:53:02 EST To: daugava@nothnbut.net From: Gokartridr@aol.com Subject: Re: Engine Life Exptations i got a 1991 tomos and i have almost 4000 miles on it and it runs better that some of the brand new ones. Nathan...<> Date: Thu, 8 Jan 1998 19:30:21 EST To: daugava@nothnbut.net From: PlasticDr@aol.com Subject: Re: UNKNOWN MOPED It looks like an unusual version of a Solex. Do you own it? Is it for sale? PlasticDr@aol.com Date: Fri, 9 Jan 1998 01:58:05 +0100 To: "Peter Staal" Subject: Re: 70cc bore kit experiences Dit is een meerdelig bericht in MIME-indeling. ------=_NextPart_000_0069_01BD1CA2.06F45F00 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="x-user-defined" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable -----Oorspronkelijk bericht----- Van: daugava@nothnbut.net Onderwerp: Re: 70cc bore kit experiences =20 =20 would say it is all up to how rides them. If you flog the h--- out = of the 80cc it will wear out just as fast as the 50cc .=20 daugava@nothnbut.net wrote:=20 =20 *************************************************=20 Date: Tue, 06 Jan 1998 04:57:28 -0800=20 To: daugava@nothnbut.net=20 From: proof@idt.net=20 Subject: Re: 70cc bore kit experiences=20 daugava@nothnbut.net wrote:=20 >=20 > *************************************************=20 > Date: Sat, 3 Jan 1998 14:49:30 EST=20 > To: daugava@nothnbut.net=20 > From: AaronM428@aol.com=20 > Subject: Re: 70cc bore kit experiences=20 >=20 > In a message dated 98-01-02 20:32:22 EST, you write:=20 >=20 > << Ok, is the problem here the fact that it's only a 50 cc = engine? Would say=20 > an 80 cc engine have a much better long term cost profile? How = about a 4=20 > stroke engine? >>=20 >=20 > Probably. Generally, Bigger Engine=3DMore Power=3DLess Work. = Because of the 50cc=20 > engine's small size, it has to work harder to produce the same = power as a=20 > larger engine, the harder something works (humans included) = the less time it=20 > lasts.=20 =20 ok yes that is exactly what i thought- it just seems like common = sense=20 but a couple dealers said that its not so and saw no connection. = thanks =20 Lets follow that theory, that for traveling on a motorised = vehicle , just enough cc to weight / streamline/ speed are needed to = maintain the lowest repair costs.=20 so , if you weight 60 Kg and won''t be able to drive over 40 mph, a = moped is more than capable of handling this over looong time.=20 for 90 Kg, and more than 60 mph top a 125 cc (or more) is = recommended, i guess ,to maintain the same rpm at top speed and = therefore the same relative wear and tear and expected life time.=20 over 120 Kg probably already have a Harley :-). How is that for an angel , to this discussion? =20 Bye, Peter Staal = ---------------------------------------------------------------------- Email: staal@concepts.nl Home: http://home.concepts.nl/~staal = ---------------------------------------------------------------------- Date: Fri, 9 Jan 1998 02:12:28 +0100 To: "Peter Staal" Subject: Re: oil+gas. -----Oorspronkelijk bericht----- Van: daugava@nothnbut.net Onderwerp: Re: oil+gas. >************************************************* >Date: Wed, 07 Jan 1998 16:22:47 -0500 >To: chrislo@cfw.com >From: chrislo@cfw.com >Subject: Re: oil+gas. > > >so here were talking about trashing mopeds and already theres talk about >using anything and everything except the right oil :-D now these are >true mopedeers. try model airplane fluid instead of gas, you dont ya! > > Beavis: WHua good thinking dude, use some Rocket Fuel, to blast me to my job. jee, i can even sleeeep looonger. Budhead: And drive back over China, COOL. Not even a helmet required, cops can get you going in orbit. or put a ticket on the heat shield :) Cool... and so on > Date: Fri, 9 Jan 1998 02:24:48 +0100 To: "Peter Staal" Subject: Re: UNKNOWN MOPED -----Oorspronkelijk bericht----- Van: daugava@nothnbut.net Onderwerp: UNKNOWN MOPED >************************************************* >Date: Thu, 8 Jan 1998 09:59:22 -0600 >To: "Mailing List" >Subject: UNKNOWN MOPED > > >------- reply to Dagfinn Johnsen > Hello! > > Have you seen this moped before? >( /d/moped/Mop.jpg ) >I think it is about 40 year old,but I dont know the name.Could someone >help? > >Dagfinn Johnsen. > >looks lika a Solex to me. Peter. > Date: Fri, 9 Jan 1998 11:31:06 -0000 To: daugava@nothnbut.net From: Brian.Bowman@bzw.com Subject: RE: Motobecane advice --MimeMultipartBoundary Content-Type: text/plain Cole, I have a 1963/4 Mobylette which I'm restoring (slowly), and I would also advise that you buy it. Of course, like any purchase, it depends on the price and the condition. When choosing a moped here are some of the things I would take into account are : 1. What do want the moped for ? If its just for fun then just about any moped will do. If its for a longish commute say greater than 5 miles then go for a small motorbike. If you have to wear good clothes to work then something with a fairing like a Honda might be better a bet. 2. What is the terrain like where you live ? I used to have to pedal my moped to help the engine up steep hills but my friend who had a Puch (I think) had some sort of selectable gear ratios and didn't have this problem. (This was 24years ago so excuse my vagueness). I was interested to read that the machine you have been offered has a long seat. Does this mean its a 2 seater or for someone with a long rear end ? Brian > -----Original Message----- > From: daugava@nothnbut.net [SMTP:daugava@nothnbut.net] > Sent: Thursday, January 08, 1998 9:53 PM > To: Moped Mailing List > Subject: Re: Motobecane advice > > ************************************************* > Date: Thu, 08 Jan 1998 16:47:41 -0500 > To: daugava@nothnbut.net > From: paltron@interlog.com > Subject: Re: Motobecane advice > > > daugava@nothnbut.net wrote: > > > > ************************************************* > > Date: Thu, 8 Jan 1998 10:13:15 -0600 > > To: "Mailing List" > > Subject: Motobecane advice > > > > -------- reply to B. Cole Bennett > > Hello again, > > > > I just found a moped for sale, and I would like your opinion on it > as I > > am not familiar with it: a 1978 Motobecane moblyette moped with a > long > > seat. Is this a reputable brand and a good machine? The seller > says > > it's in great condition. I am interested in your input. > > > > Thank you, > > > > Cole Bennett > Yes, yes, and again, yes. Take it before someone else does. > --MimeMultipartBoundary-- Date: Fri, 9 Jan 1998 08:58:05 EST To: daugava@nothnbut.net From: Underone@aol.com Subject: Re: "Moped Digest" A lot of people have been after info on their mopeds , to everyone I recommend joining the National Autocycle & Cyclemotor Club in the UK , they've got the biggest library dedicated to our machines in the world to the best of my knowledge and have proved invaluable in getting manuals and info on the most obscure makes , they've got something on the net , search under NACC! Kev Date: Fri, 9 Jan 1998 15:32:06 EST To: daugava@nothnbut.net From: MaytagTwin@aol.com Subject: Re: UNKNOWN MOPED In a message dated 98-01-09 15:28:12 EST, you write: << > Have you seen this moped before? >( /d/moped/Mop.jpg ) >I think it is about 40 year old,but I dont know the name.Could someone >help? > >Dagfinn Johnsen. > >looks lika a Solex to me. Peter. >> Yes, by all means Solex. Gas tank on one side, engine w/ flywheel on other side, blower to cool cylinder and headlight built into the unit. Where is it? Ron Carroll Nokesville, Virginia USA maytagtwin@aol.com Date: Thu, 08 Jan 1998 23:37:26 +0100 To: Subject: Re: UNKNOWN MOPED Hi, At 09:59 8-01-98 -0600, Dagfinn Johnsen > Have you seen this moped before? >( /d/moped/Mop.jpg ) Yes, I have, but I'm not sure of the brand. My guess is it's a VAP, this is a French clone of the Solex. I've seem to have misplaced some documents, because I'm sure I had something about these mopeds.. What do you want to do Dagfinn? Are you searching for a moped like that? Cheers, Hans Hartman Date: Fri, 9 Jan 1998 16:12:51 -0600 To: Subject: RE: Motobecane advice (fwd) >I was interested to read that the machine you have been offered has a >long seat. Does this mean its a 2 seater or for someone with a long rear >end ? > >Brian Ha! Hi Brian, Thanks for the great info. I guess it's a two seater, although I can't imagine a moped being able to carry two people with only a 50CC engine. I need a moped to zip around campus (I am a student) because I live a few blocks away, and the campus is quite spacious itself. walking just doesn't do it for me becuase it takes too long and I am sometimes dressed up a bit. Thanks again for the message, CB __________________________________ B. Cole Bennett English Ph.D. program University of Southern Mississippi Date: Fri, 09 Jan 1998 17:06:35 -0500 To: daugava@nothnbut.net From: paltron@interlog.com Subject: Re: UNKNOWN MOPED daugava@nothnbut.net wrote: > > ************************************************* > Date: Fri, 9 Jan 1998 02:24:48 +0100 > To: "Peter Staal" > Subject: Re: UNKNOWN MOPED > > -----Oorspronkelijk bericht----- > Van: daugava@nothnbut.net > Onderwerp: UNKNOWN MOPED > > >************************************************* > >Date: Thu, 8 Jan 1998 09:59:22 -0600 > >To: "Mailing List" > >Subject: UNKNOWN MOPED > > > > > >------- reply to Dagfinn Johnsen > > Hello! > > > > Have you seen this moped before? > >( /d/moped/Mop.jpg ) > >I think it is about 40 year old,but I dont know the name.Could someone > >help? > > > >Dagfinn Johnsen. > > > >looks lika a Solex to me. > Peter. > > > Looks like a home-made contraption of a friction-drive auxiliary lawnmower engine mounted on a bicycle. Date: Fri, 9 Jan 1998 05:29:30 +0100 To: "Peter Staal" Subject: Re: oil+gas. -----Oorspronkelijk bericht----- Van: daugava@nothnbut.net Onderwerp: Re: oil+gas. >************************************************* >Date: Wed, 7 Jan 1998 20:20:44 -0500 >To: daugava@nothnbut.net >From: a.ghosh@utoronto.ca >Subject: Re: oil+gas. > > >daugava@nothnbut.net wrote: >> >> ************************************************* >> Date: Sun, 4 Jan 1998 02:06:42 +0100 >> To: >> Subject: Re: oil+gas. >> >> -----Oorspronkelijk bericht----- >> Van: daugava@nothnbut.net >> Onderwerp: oil+gas. >> >> >************************************************* >> >Date: Sat, 3 Jan 1998 16:50:40 -0500 >> >To: Moped >> >Subject: oil+gas. >> > >> > >> >hi, ya i know i have to add in a mixture of gasoline and oil. >> >I went to the local Canadian Tire to get some, on the moped >> >it says to get "Two Stroke or Engine Oil sae 30-50". >> >At Canadian Tire they got 2 bottles of engine oil. >> >One is Engine Oil 30, the other is 50. >> >What is the moped trying to tell me? that i can use >> >30 OR 50, or like a special kind called 30-50 sorta like >> >10w-30??? Or does it mean i can use between 30 and 50? >> >so like a 40 will do? >> >as you can see i'm pretty dumb, so can one of you point >> >me in the direction of what to buy. >> >Thanks. >> > -- Alok from Toronto. >> > >> > >> > >> What kinda historic monster do you drive ? >> now adays they use special mix oils, NO ENGINE OIL the 30 / 40 / 50 are the >> same sae values as in 40-w50 and are a value for thickness of the liquid. >> the sae value of mix oil is not relevant because it will be soluded in the >> gas .( and become sae 1-w2 or some thing ) >> look for 2-stroke oil, lawn mawer mix oil will do too, no outboard mix, >> preferably, but i have a friend who swears on it , so it is usable for a >> good time. >its a 1975 Bombardiar Puch. I'm trying to get it working. I've fixed >many >things on it. So your saying instead of using sae 30-50 motor oil i can >use >40w-50. you 100% on this? if so i'll go get that then. >- Alok > > > Hi Alok, A Bombardier Puch , isn't that a moped with gears ? (manualy shifted ?) well about the oil, i find it hard that there is no good mix oil in your neighbourhood, are there any lawnmawers there or motorboats , and shops that go with ém. Because real motor oil would not be a problem , but most manufactorers put in a lot or additives to (be carefull) prevent burning, have a high flame point and more un wanted stuff. if you have to use it, use the cheapest brand (additives are expensive :)) And try to find some true mix oil, because running on motor oil can make a extra coal build up in the cylinderhead, no problem if not excesive (coal in plug etc), and some more smoke. good luck, Peter. Date: Fri, 9 Jan 1998 21:50:29 EST To: daugava@nothnbut.net From: AaronM428@aol.com Subject: Re: 70cc bore kit experiences In a message dated 98-01-06 17:05:32 EST, you write: << lower rpm a motor runs, the longer it will last. >> Definately. Lower RPM=Lower Piston Velocity=Lower Friction=Less Wear and Tear=Longer Life. Redline is the maximum speed an engine can attain AND maintain without blowing itself to bits very quickly. Overrev causes the most damage to the crank and mounts because of imbalances and the inertia of the piston. Date: Fri, 9 Jan 1998 22:01:15 EST To: daugava@nothnbut.net From: AaronM428@aol.com Subject: Re: 70cc bore kit experiences In a message dated 98-01-06 19:39:04 EST, you write: << > Probably. Generally, Bigger Engine=More Power=Less Work. Because of the 50cc > engine's small size, it has to work harder to produce the same power as a > larger engine, the harder something works (humans included) the less time it > lasts. ok yes that is exactly what i thought- it just seems like common sense but a couple dealers said that its not so and saw no connection. thanks >> Keep in mind that this is general and could vary significantly between makes and driving habits. Date: Fri, 9 Jan 1998 21:55:40 EST To: daugava@nothnbut.net From: AaronM428@aol.com Subject: Re: Engine Life Exptations In a message dated 98-01-06 18:56:57 EST, you write: << In the USA it seems that a lot of riders run around at full throttle most of the time. >> Only on flat country roads. I know better than to run mine full throttle uphill. Date: Fri, 9 Jan 1998 22:00:01 EST To: daugava@nothnbut.net From: AaronM428@aol.com Subject: Re: oil+gas. In a message dated 98-01-06 19:34:11 EST, you write: << So your saying instead of using sae 30-50 motor oil i can use 40w-50. you 100% on this? if so i'll go get that then. - Alok >> NO! Do not use regular motor oil primarily. As I said before, 4-cycle oil is supposed to be used in 2-cycle engine only in emergencies as it is better than no oil in the gas at all. Using 4-cycle oil regularly in a 2-cycle engine will only harm it in the long run. Always, always, always use 2-cycle oil in a 2-cycle unless you have no other option, and then maybe only 1 tank in 10 max. Date: Sat, 10 Jan 1998 12:37:36 -0500 To: daugava@nothnbut.net From: paltron@interlog.com Subject: Re: Motobecane advice (fwd) daugava@nothnbut.net wrote: > > ************************************************* > Date: Fri, 9 Jan 1998 16:12:51 -0600 > To: > Subject: RE: Motobecane advice (fwd) > > >I was interested to read that the machine you have been offered has a > >long seat. Does this mean its a 2 seater or for someone with a long rear > >end ? > > > >Brian > > Ha! Hi Brian, > > Thanks for the great info. I guess it's a two seater, although I can't > imagine a moped being able to carry two people with only a 50CC engine. I > need a moped to zip around campus (I am a student) because I live a few > blocks away, and the campus is quite spacious itself. walking just doesn't > do it for me becuase it takes too long and I am sometimes dressed up a bit. > > Thanks again for the message, > > CB > > __________________________________ > B. Cole Bennett > English Ph.D. program > University of Southern Mississippi > > No, it is not a two-seater, just a styling refinement. Early mopeds used to look exactly like bicycles (seat too) but then they evolved. Many so-called "top-tank" mopeds came on board that looked like genuine motorcycles and had the matching seat too. Date: Sat, 10 Jan 1998 20:12:18 -0500 To: "Moped Mailing list" Subject: Peugeots Please Help, I bought my step-son a 1980 Peugeot 102 SP used.After I checked it over and got it running he took off with it .It ran great two days later he tells me it won't run right so I looked it over and can't find a thing wrong.It acts like it's running out of gas it won't wind up.It spits and spurters but idles sweet.The carb has no adjustments but idle speed.How the hell do you do anything with the mixture?As you can see I need help or some kind of manuel......Something.I don't think there's that much wrong but I don't Please help.Thank you John Clem Date: Sat, 10 Jan 1998 21:00:35 EST To: daugava@nothnbut.net From: EMAN95@aol.com Subject: Mopeds Hi im Scott Chase and I would like to join the suscribe digest moped mailing list. I own a Puch Maxi (excellent shape beautiful blue color) Motobecane Mobylette (aqua blue two seater good acceleration and in good shape) Tomos A3sp Bullet (Also in good shape, but doesn't have spark at the moment) and a Amf Roadmaster ( restoring right now, but very hard to find parts for. Very fun to ride! Do you know any sources of parts for the roadmaster?) My address is SCOTT CHASE 1163 West smith rd. Bellingham , WA 98226 HAPPY MOPEDALING! Date: Sat, 10 Jan 1998 23:16:13 -0600 To: daugava@nothnbut.net From: duckdogs@bright.net Subject: Subject Unknown subscribe Date: Sun, 11 Jan 1998 21:15:01 GMT To: daugava@nothnbut.net From: Philip.Kuhl@ping.be Subject: How To Make Your Moped Live Longer With all this exchange about the effects of higher RPM and greater bore on engine life, would group members care to make recommendations as to what an owner can do to make his moped last as long as possible? It would be most helpful if postings could include the REASONS for a recommendation so we can distinguish between a mechanically-justified recommendation and a simple speculation (and also to let the mechanics among us offer alternate views!). I want to keep my 1996 Peugeot 103 running as long as possible! Here are my suggestions, and my reasoning behind them. And I admit that I am no mechanic! 1. Always use proper gas/oil mixture with the right kind of oil. (Ensures proper engine lubrication and minimizes carbon deposit build-up.) 2. Ensure drive chain is properly lubricated and tensioned. (Minimizes chain/pinion gear wear, and helps eliminates chain coming off the gears at speed.) 3. Ensure tires are properly inflated. (Minimizes tire wear and rolling resistance.) 4. Avoid continued stock full-speed operation or excessive idling in hot weather. (Avoid overheating the motor. But can anyone offer an authoritative recommendation about the advisability/inadvisability of continued STOCK full-speed operation in cooler weather -- i.e. 30 MPH/50 KPH at 59°F/15°C where plenty of cooler air is getting to the cooling fins? My dealer says it is OK.) 5. Gentle starts and speed changes (especially when engine is cold); use of engine/transmission braking. (Minimizes stress & wear on engine, clutch, variator [if so equipped], and brakes.) 6. Keep the moped out of the rain. (Avoids corrosion.) Who can add to this list? Who can point out any problems I have missed? Thanks! Phil Philip.Kuhl@ping.be Date: Sun, 11 Jan 1998 20:56:30 EST To: daugava@nothnbut.net From: Huvz@aol.com Subject: Parting out Pacer Top Tank I have a fairly comlete PACER Super Sport. Sell parts or complete. Located - GA Picture available. Scott H Date: Mon, 12 Jan 1998 09:03:08 +0100 To: Subject: Re: UNKNOWN MOPED At 21:50 09.01.98 EST, you wrote: >************************************************* >Date: Fri, 9 Jan 1998 15:32:06 EST >To: daugava@nothnbut.net May be, it is a home made contraption,lowmover engine. If I remember right, I could see Vap under the light blue house paint. I see it on a market in Norway some years ago.But you know the problem, My wife feel cold and the children should on WC etc.I must leave the moped before I met the owner. So the only thing I have is this photo. Yes,I want to buy it, if it is a home made contraption from Norway,indeed..... Thanks Dagfinn Johnsen. Dagfinn Johnsen. Date: Mon, 12 Jan 1998 20:13:17 +0100 To: <@vip.cybercity.dk> From: bb8722@vip.cybercity.dk Subject: About Cady. Hello I have just got a moped who is called a cady (motobecane). I cannot find anything about it. Do you now were i can find some things about it. Please send back on bbe8722@vip.cybercity.dk Jacob Scherrebeck from Denmark. Date: Sun, 11 Jan 1998 17:49:56 -0800 To: johniii@erols.com From: johniii@erols.com Subject: Feef First Mopeds What I just might be in the market is Feet First (FF) mopeds. Are there any out in the world? There are FF motorcycles and recumbent bicycles, so how about FF mopeds. If any body can help it would be greatly appreciated. Thank You, John Date: Tue, 13 Jan 1998 19:49:31 -0500 To: daugava@nothnbut.net From: a.ghosh@utoronto.ca Subject: Re: oil+gas. daugava@nothnbut.net wrote: > A Bombardier Puch , isn't that a moped with gears ? (manualy shifted ?) > well about the oil, i find it hard that there is no good mix oil in your > neighbourhood, are there any lawnmawers there or motorboats , and shops that > go with ém. Because real motor oil would not be a problem , but most > manufactorers put in a lot or additives to (be carefull) prevent burning, > have a high flame point and more un wanted stuff. if you have to use it, use > the cheapest brand (additives are expensive :)) > And try to find some true mix oil, because running on motor oil can make a > extra coal build up in the cylinderhead, no problem if not excesive (coal in > plug etc), and some more smoke. no gears, its 3 spd automatic, (i think). well the moped wants me to use "sae 30-50" but there is no such thing at 30-50 at canadian tire. BUT there is sae 30 and sae 50, two seperate motor oils. so i can use either one, right??? there's this sae book in the library that tells you equivilants, but it was out, so i'll look it up and tell you when i get it. Date: Tue, 13 Jan 1998 12:30:53 -0500 (EST) To: Moped Mailing List Subject: Motobecane Hey, I have a Motobecane Cady, that I am working on restoring. I was wondering where I could get some more information on them. I am hoping to get it running by the summer. Any advice is apreciated. Also I was wondering what kind of rules are there for riding mopeds in Ontario. I want to put it on the road again. The problem I have is that it will not start. I have drained the gas many times, there is a good spark, and some compression (PSI?), I wonder if the gas in not getting through, how can I check? TIA. Gregory Hessels Date: Tue, 13 Jan 1998 16:41:12 -0500 To: daugava@nothnbut.net From: stangle@infi.net Subject: 1954 moped I'm doing a search for a friend. he owns a 1954 Steyr-Daimler-Puch A.G.-GRAZ moped, model 810.94000. this unit was sold by Sears. Its a 2 stroke, and is serial number 6127086. he is looking for a source of parts, documentation, and value. Its in VERY good shape, but there a few items he is looking for. Tires for one thing. Can you point me/him in a good direction? -- _______________________________________________________________________ Tom Stangler |Track Car: 320HP '86 5.0 Mustang - '97 Track Events Va Beach, VA |Rockingham (done), Track Ponies @ Summit Point (done) stangle@infi.net | Watkins Glen (done) 420 miles of lapping!! http://www.tsquare.com/tscc Date: Tue, 13 Jan 1998 19:59:49 EST To: daugava@nothnbut.net From: Madd696@aol.com Subject: Rules/Regs Hi I live in NJ and my dad is getting me a moped for my birthday in July (turning 15) I was wondering what type of a test do they administer(written or driving or both) and what is the best moped to buy that will last for about 4 years (my bro will be driving it after me). Also, do cops hassle you and I heard you can park it and chain it anywhere even a no parking sign is this true? Thanx a lot Date: Tue, 13 Jan 1998 08:41:10 -0800 To: daugava@nothnbut.net From: proof@idt.net Subject: Re: Peugeots daugava@nothnbut.net wrote: > > ************************************************* > Date: Sat, 10 Jan 1998 20:12:18 -0500 > To: "Moped Mailing list" > Subject: Peugeots > > Please Help, I bought my step-son a 1980 Peugeot 102 SP used.After I > checked it over and got it running he took off with it .It ran great two > days later he tells me it won't run right so I looked it over and can't > find a thing wrong.It acts like it's running out of gas it won't wind up.It > spits and spurters but idles sweet.The carb has no adjustments but idle > speed.How the hell do you do anything with the mixture?As you can see I > need help or some kind of manuel......Something.I don't think there's that > much wrong but I don't Please help.Thank you John Clem change the spark plug Date: Tue, 13 Jan 1998 22:13:55 EST To: daugava@nothnbut.net From: SUPRDAVE@aol.com Subject: Re: How To Make Your Moped Live Longer In a message dated 98-01-13 19:27:47 EST, you write: << With all this exchange about the effects of higher RPM and greater bore on engine life, would group members care to make recommendations as to what an owner can do to make his moped last as long as possible? >> I would also add to always use your air filter, and to keep the element clean. doing so will prevent nasty things from getting into the motor. also, if a moped has a transmission, keep the proper level of oil in it. my QT50 has a tranmission that requires sae30 oil which is separate from the motor. i think the most important thing is to let the motor warm up before running full throttle and/or high speed runs. Date: Tue, 13 Jan 1998 20:09:15 -0800 (PST) To: Moped Mailing List Subject: Re: Motobecane > The problem I have is that it will not start. I have drained the > gas many times, there is a good spark, and some compression (PSI?), I > wonder if the gas in not getting through, how can I check? TIA. > > > Gregory Hessels Pour or squirt a little gas into the carb throat. If it starts, or fires up, then your fuel is being blocked to the carb. Possible causes- clogged fuel filter, clogged petcock, kinked fuel line, clogged carburettor needle valve, possible but less likely, clogged tank vent. -Dave Date: Wed, 14 Jan 1998 00:27:39 -0500 To: daugava@nothnbut.net From: 6828t@bright.net Subject: Re: How To Make Your Moped Live Longer I just have one to add to the list as of now, make sure that you us a good brand of gas ( no alcohol in gas) Myself I run high test gas at least 92 octane. Thank You Bob Taylor daugava@nothnbut.net wrote: > ************************************************* > Date: Sun, 11 Jan 1998 21:15:01 GMT > To: daugava@nothnbut.net > From: Philip.Kuhl@ping.be > Subject: How To Make Your Moped Live Longer > > With all this exchange about the effects of higher RPM and greater bore on > engine life, would group members care to make recommendations as to what an > owner can do to make his moped last as long as possible? It would be most > helpful if postings could include the REASONS for a recommendation so we can > distinguish between a mechanically-justified recommendation and a simple > speculation (and also to let the mechanics among us offer alternate views!). > I want to keep my 1996 Peugeot 103 running as long as possible! > > Here are my suggestions, and my reasoning behind them. And I admit that I > am no mechanic! > > 1. Always use proper gas/oil mixture with the right kind of oil. (Ensures > proper engine lubrication and minimizes carbon deposit build-up.) > > 2. Ensure drive chain is properly lubricated and tensioned. (Minimizes > chain/pinion gear wear, and helps eliminates chain coming off the gears at > speed.) > > 3. Ensure tires are properly inflated. (Minimizes tire wear and rolling > resistance.) > > 4. Avoid continued stock full-speed operation or excessive idling in hot > weather. (Avoid overheating the motor. But can anyone offer an > authoritative recommendation about the advisability/inadvisability of > continued STOCK full-speed operation in cooler weather -- i.e. 30 MPH/50 KPH > at 59°F/15°C where plenty of cooler air is getting to the cooling fins? My > dealer says it is OK.) > > 5. Gentle starts and speed changes (especially when engine is cold); use of > engine/transmission braking. (Minimizes stress & wear on engine, clutch, > variator [if so equipped], and brakes.) > > 6. Keep the moped out of the rain. (Avoids corrosion.) > > Who can add to this list? Who can point out any problems I have missed? > > Thanks! > > Phil > Philip.Kuhl@ping.be Date: Wed, 14 Jan 1998 03:12:42 -0600 (CST) To: cyclepro@evansville.net From: cyclepro@evansville.net Subject: Re: Peugeots Dear John...... Can't help you out with a manual but I got an idea or 2 about how to get started without one. I would start by checking to make sure the high speed jet in the carb isn't plugged. Next I'd check to se that the float is floating and maintaining approxmiately the correct level of fuel in the bowel. Check plug wire in a dark room to see if fire may be leaking from the wire near some piece of metal that it is passing by. Next Check for carboned up exhaust port. ..............................GREG On Tue, 13 Jan, daugava@nothnbut.net wrote... >************************************************* >Date: Sat, 10 Jan 1998 20:12:18 -0500 >To: "Moped Mailing list" >Subject: Peugeots > > >Please Help, I bought my step-son a 1980 Peugeot 102 SP used.After I >checked it over and got it running he took off with it .It ran great two >days later he tells me it won't run right so I looked it over and can't >find a thing wrong.It acts like it's running out of gas it won't wind up.It >spits and spurters but idles sweet.The carb has no adjustments but idle >speed.How the hell do you do anything with the mixture?As you can see I >need help or some kind of manuel......Something.I don't think there's that >much wrong but I don't Please help.Thank you John Clem > > > Date: Wed, 14 Jan 1998 01:08:48 +0100 To: "Peter Staal" Subject: US Tomos question from : Doug Jann Email: dljann@catalinas.net (please use this adres for an answer because i not ready on the list !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!) I recently bought my Tomos and need to use it to go up and down dirt hills - 2.2 miles a day. Can you get stud tires and make these things go a little faster. Any information and a catalog to order supplies would be great. I live on an Island 26 miles from Long Beach California. Thank you -- Hi Doug, Because you live in the US and i live in holland (europe) it would be hard for me to tell if any thing is available in your neighbourhood. Therefore we have in this cyberspace the : Moped Mailing List with at least 80% U.s. members, so they will be glad to help you out, you can reach it by the link on my home page (facts) (big green / pink) i'll forward your mail to the list and ask if they'll answer it to you personaly, in case you would not be interested in joining the list (what would be sorry for you , realy it is a good initiative for all moped drivers outthere/here) so hopefully this will answer your questions in the long run (tomorrow ?) ;) Bye, Peter Staal ---------------------------------------------------------------------- Email: staal@concepts.nl Home: http://home.concepts.nl/~staal ---------------------------------------------------------------------- Date: Wed, 14 Jan 1998 03:20:14 -0600 (CST) To: cyclepro@evansville.net From: cyclepro@evansville.net Subject: Re: Engine Life Exptations Actually doing the revurse would be some better for it. No ricip engine that I can think of is designed for continious operation above 75 or 80% power and 50% will make em last longer yet. Except when under a heavy load like going up a hill where "lugging" can become a factor. On Tue, 13 Jan, daugava@nothnbut.net wrote... >************************************************* >Date: Fri, 9 Jan 1998 21:55:40 EST >To: daugava@nothnbut.net >From: AaronM428@aol.com >Subject: Re: Engine Life Exptations > > >In a message dated 98-01-06 18:56:57 EST, you write: > ><< In the USA it seems that a lot of riders run around at full throttle most >of > the time. >> > >Only on flat country roads. I know better than to run mine full throttle >uphill. > > > Date: Wed, 14 Jan 1998 04:00:38 -0600 (CST) To: cyclepro@evansville.net From: cyclepro@evansville.net Subject: Re: How To Make Your Moped Live Longer Philip, You've pretty well got it nailed. Except Max Continous Power is not good for the engine even with cold air. Although you will get away with it longer before problems are encountered. Aside from the higher ware rates that occur at high rpm you are more apt to encounter a lean mixture condition due to the cooler more dense air. I may be getting hard to follow but where engine performance charts are made available to the operator they will show that the rated hp is at 59F or 15C at sea level. At 100F the rated hp falls off 5 to 10% but at 0F (excellent for polar bears) it the output increases to about 110% of rated power. Therefore the fuel mixture needs to increased to compensate for this. Running a little lean in cold air is worse on it than in hot air. You just have a lot hotter blow tourch due to being supercharged by mother nature. Of coures you can rejet or tune the carb. Also an engine can be easily in cold air by rapidly closing the throttle which results in "thermal shock" disproportional temprature ranges across the engine. ..........Greg On Tue, 13 Jan, daugava@nothnbut.net wrote... >*************************************************=0D >Date: Sun, 11 Jan 1998 21:15:01 GMT >To: daugava@nothnbut.net >From: Philip.Kuhl@ping.be >Subject: How To Make Your Moped Live Longer > > >With all this exchange about the effects of higher RPM and greater bore o= >n >engine life, would group members care to make recommendations as to what = >an >owner can do to make his moped last as long as possible? It would be mos= >t >helpful if postings could include the REASONS for a recommendation so we = >can >distinguish between a mechanically-justified recommendation and a simple >speculation (and also to let the mechanics among us offer alternate views= >!). >I want to keep my 1996 Peugeot 103 running as long as possible! > >Here are my suggestions, and my reasoning behind them. And I admit that = >I >am no mechanic! > >1. Always use proper gas/oil mixture with the right kind of oil. (Ensur= >es >proper engine lubrication and minimizes carbon deposit build-up.) > >2. Ensure drive chain is properly lubricated and tensioned. (Minimizes >chain/pinion gear wear, and helps eliminates chain coming off the gears a= >t >speed.) > >3. Ensure tires are properly inflated. (Minimizes tire wear and rolling >resistance.) > >4. Avoid continued stock full-speed operation or excessive idling in hot >weather. (Avoid overheating the motor. But can anyone offer an >authoritative recommendation about the advisability/inadvisability of >continued STOCK full-speed operation in cooler weather -- i.e. 30 MPH/50 = >KPH >at 59=B0F/15=B0C where plenty of cooler air is getting to the cooling fin= >s? My >dealer says it is OK.) > >5. Gentle starts and speed changes (especially when engine is cold); use= > of >engine/transmission braking. (Minimizes stress & wear on engine, clutch, >variator [if so equipped], and brakes.) > >6. Keep the moped out of the rain. (Avoids corrosion.) > >Who can add to this list? Who can point out any problems I have missed? > >Thanks! > >Phil >Philip.Kuhl@ping.be > > > Date: Wed, 14 Jan 1998 07:23:21 EST To: daugava@nothnbut.net From: Huvz@aol.com Subject: Re: Peugeots I suspect something may be restricting fuel from getting to the engine. If you haven't yet, remove and disassemble the carb. Clean it thouroughly, you may need to use a fine wire to make sure all venturi holes and passageways are open. If the bike has been sitting for any amount of time, this is usually necessary. You can request a manual from mopedmoped@aol.com. Good Luck Scott H Date: Wed, 14 Jan 1998 07:26:10 EST To: daugava@nothnbut.net From: Huvz@aol.com Subject: Re: Rules/Regs I would avoid chaining it to a no parking sign. You really dont want to invite a debate with the law. Maybe you can legally, but you better carry a copy of the regulaitons in your pocket that says so. Godd Luck Scott H Date: Wed, 14 Jan 1998 09:11:27 -0500 To: daugava@nothnbut.net From: 6828t@bright.net Subject: Re: oil+gas. Try to find a real two stroke oil to mix for your gas. Don't know if you got my other posting, I used a motor to mix just one tank of gas in my husky chain saw, ( owners manual said the same as yours) I then ran the saw oh less say 4 more tanks of gas ( with 2 stroke oil) and the saw seized up. I use all brands of saw weed eaters mopeds cut timber for a living, that was the only saw that ever gave me any trouble. I fill that it was the 1 tank of gas that caused the trouble. Bottom line us mix oil and a good brand of gas ( no alcohol in gas) plus I us high test 92 octane fuel. Thank You Bob Taylor daugava@nothnbut.net wrote: > ************************************************* > Date: Tue, 13 Jan 1998 19:49:31 -0500 > To: daugava@nothnbut.net > From: a.ghosh@utoronto.ca > Subject: Re: oil+gas. > > daugava@nothnbut.net wrote: > > A Bombardier Puch , isn't that a moped with gears ? (manualy shifted ?) > > well about the oil, i find it hard that there is no good mix oil in your > > neighbourhood, are there any lawnmawers there or motorboats , and shops that > > go with ém. Because real motor oil would not be a problem , but most > > manufactorers put in a lot or additives to (be carefull) prevent burning, > > have a high flame point and more un wanted stuff. if you have to use it, use > > the cheapest brand (additives are expensive :)) > > And try to find some true mix oil, because running on motor oil can make a > > extra coal build up in the cylinderhead, no problem if not excesive (coal in > > plug etc), and some more smoke. > no gears, its 3 spd automatic, (i think). well the moped wants me to > use > "sae 30-50" but there is no such thing at 30-50 at canadian tire. > BUT there is sae 30 and sae 50, two seperate motor oils. so i can use > either one, right??? there's this sae book in the library that tells > you equivilants, > but it was out, so i'll look it up and tell you when i get it. Date: Wed, 14 Jan 1998 00:47:50 -0800 To: daugava@nothnbut.net From: proof@idt.net Subject: Re: Rules/Regs daugava@nothnbut.net wrote: > > ************************************************* > Date: Tue, 13 Jan 1998 19:59:49 EST > To: daugava@nothnbut.net > From: Madd696@aol.com > Subject: Rules/Regs > > Hi > I live in NJ and my dad is getting me a moped for my birthday in July (turning > 15) I was wondering what type of a test do they administer(written or driving > or both) and what is the best moped to buy that will last for about 4 years > (my bro will be driving it after me). Also, do cops hassle you and I heard you > can park it and chain it anywhere even a no parking sign is this true? > Thanx a lot Hi, I also live in NJ and I have a Tomos Targa LX. I would highly recommend this model. I haven't had a single problem with it in over a year. They are sold by at least two dealers in north NJ - Steve's moped in Dumont and Perlmutter's in Wayne. There is also a moped called a Kinetic that is a lot less expensive than the Tomos but I dont know too much about it. Ask about it on here. About parking yes you can just about park it anywhere. I usually lock mine to no parking signs on sidewalks. But use some common sense - dont ride the ped ride up onto the sidewalk. Stop first, turn it off and push it up to the sign. And just pick parking places that are not in anybody's way and you should not have any problems. Just use some common sense. Have fun! Date: Wed, 14 Jan 1998 23:15:29 +0100 To: Subject: Re: UNKNOWN MOPED hello people, At 16:41 13-01-98 -0500, Dagfinn Johnsen. wrote: > May be, it is a home made contraption,lowmover engine. If I remember No, it is no home-made contraption. It was factory built in France during the 50's. It has nothing to do with lawnmowers. VAP was a fairly big manufactorer of bicycle-attachment engines. >right, I could see Vap under the light blue house paint. >I see it on a market in Norway some years ago.But you know the problem, My >wife feel cold and the children should on WC etc.I must leave the moped No, I do not know that feeling (anymore), because I NEVER take wife and children along (as any sensible collectioneur won't) Wives do have the nasty habbit to talk sence on emotional moments like the purchase of a beautifull classic moped, scooter or motorcycle. >before I met the owner. So the only thing I have is this photo. >Yes,I want to buy it, if it is a home made contraption from Norway,indeed..... You should have bought it, these things are pretty rare. You won't get the same chance that easy... Cheers, Hans Hartman Date: Wed, 14 Jan 1998 22:55:43 +0100 To: "Peter Staal" Subject: Re: Peugeots -----Oorspronkelijk bericht----- Van: daugava@nothnbut.net Onderwerp: Peugeots >************************************************* >Date: Sat, 10 Jan 1998 20:12:18 -0500 >To: "Moped Mailing list" >Subject: Peugeots > > >Please Help, I bought my step-son a 1980 Peugeot 102 SP used.After I >checked it over and got it running he took off with it .It ran great two >days later he tells me it won't run right so I looked it over and can't >find a thing wrong.It acts like it's running out of gas it won't wind up.It >spits and spurters but idles sweet.The carb has no adjustments but idle >speed.How the hell do you do anything with the mixture?As you can see I >need help or some kind of manuel......Something.I don't think there's that >much wrong but I don't Please help.Thank you John Clem > > > sounds like a little gas deamon, called sand or her nephew dirt, making a rollercoaster trip in your carb. jet. or some where near. You can get rid of these unwanted visitors by cleaning the carburator carefully and making sure no new dirt / rust comes in by reassambling it in clean environment ,(cleanhands etc) and adding a extra fuel filter in the gas line to prevent the crouwd from having a new party down there. :) Peter. Date: Wed, 14 Jan 1998 23:07:06 +0100 To: "Peter Staal" Subject: Re: How To Make Your Moped Live Longer -----Oorspronkelijk bericht----- Van: daugava@nothnbut.net Onderwerp: How To Make Your Moped Live Longer ************************************************* Date: Sun, 11 Jan 1998 21:15:01 GMT To: daugava@nothnbut.net From: Philip.Kuhl@ping.be Subject: How To Make Your Moped Live Longer I want to keep my 1996 Peugeot 103 running as long as possible! 1. Always use proper gas/oil mixture with the right kind of oil. (Ensures proper engine lubrication and minimizes carbon deposit build-up.) 2. Ensure drive chain is properly lubricated and tensioned. (Minimizes chain/pinion gear wear, and helps eliminates chain coming off the gears at speed.) 3. Ensure tires are properly inflated. (Minimizes tire wear and rolling resistance.) 4. Avoid continued stock full-speed operation or excessive idling in hot weather. (Avoid overheating the motor. But can anyone offer an authoritative recommendation about the advisability/inadvisability of continued STOCK full-speed operation in cooler weather -- i.e. 30 MPH/50 KPH at 59°F/15°C where plenty of cooler air is getting to the cooling fins? My dealer says it is OK.) 5. Gentle starts and speed changes (especially when engine is cold); use of engine/transmission braking. (Minimizes stress & wear on engine, clutch, variator [if so equipped], and brakes.) 6. Keep the moped out of the rain. (Avoids corrosion.) Who can add to this list? Who can point out any problems I have missed? Thanks! Phil Philip.Kuhl@ping.be Hi Philip, you wrote: 4. But can anyone offer an authoritative recommendation about the advisability/inadvisability of continued STOCK full-speed operation in cooler weather -- i.e. 30 MPH/50 KPH at 59°F/15°C where plenty of cooler air is getting to the cooling fins? My dealer says it is OK.) When colder outside, your 'ped runs faster due to the better air-desity (more O2 in 50cc !) so it gets a little hotter.......but is cooled better. :) Bye, Peter Staal ---------------------------------------------------------------------- Email: staal@concepts.nl Home: http://home.concepts.nl/~staal ---------------------------------------------------------------------- Date: Wed, 14 Jan 1998 23:17:44 +0100 To: "Peter Staal" Subject: Re: 1954 moped -----Oorspronkelijk bericht----- Van: daugava@nothnbut.net Onderwerp: 1954 moped >************************************************* >Date: Tue, 13 Jan 1998 16:41:12 -0500 >To: daugava@nothnbut.net >From: stangle@infi.net >Subject: 1954 moped > > >I'm doing a search for a friend. > >he owns a 1954 Steyr-Daimler-Puch A.G.-GRAZ moped, model 810.94000. >this unit was sold by Sears. Its a 2 stroke, and is serial number >6127086. > >he is looking for a source of parts, documentation, and value. Its in >VERY good shape, but there a few items he is looking for. Tires for one >thing. > >Can you point me/him in a good direction? > >-- >_______________________________________________________________________ >Tom Stangler |Track Car: 320HP '86 5.0 Mustang - '97 Track Events >Va Beach, VA |Rockingham (done), Track Ponies @ Summit Point >(done) >stangle@infi.net | Watkins Glen (done) 420 miles of lapping!! >http://www.tsquare.com/tscc > Hi Look on my (old)parts page http://home.concepts.nl/~staal/xxparts.html I think you have something like those one on the photo pages (fun).... and than a very early one, 2 gear puch hand shift with 2 cables to do the shifting job. back step braking.... and a pancake muffler ? Bye, Peter Staal ---------------------------------------------------------------------- Email: staal@concepts.nl Home: http://home.concepts.nl/~staal ---------------------------------------------------------------------- Date: Wed, 14 Jan 1998 19:19:58 EST To: daugava@nothnbut.net From: Madd696@aol.com Subject: Best out there Who are the best moped makers in the US (east coast) what is the best model? Are they hard to maintain and keep in good shape? Are they worth buying for two to three years of use? Date: Wed, 14 Jan 1998 16:47:36 -0800 (PST) To: Moped Mailing List Subject: Re: US Tomos question > from : Doug Jann > Email: dljann@catalinas.net (please use this adres for an answer > because i not ready on the list > !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!) > > I recently bought my Tomos and need to use it to go up and down dirt hills - > 2.2 miles a day. Can you get stud tires and make these things go a little > faster. Any information and a catalog to order supplies would be great. I > live on an Island 26 miles from Long Beach California. > Thank you > -- Hi Doug, THis showed up on the moped mailing list- forwarded by Peter Staal. If you'll E-mail me the tire sizes for your Tomos, I'll check my Dennis Kirk catalog to see if the make any off road or dual purpose tires in that size. Many people on the list can help you with engine hop-up options if you want to go faster. Does the Tomos use a centrifugal clutch? My understanding is that these aren't very suitable for use in sandy or soft off road soils. Perhaps others have more experience. How do you like living on Catalina? I'll bet it's great. That's one place that a moped would be the perfect form of transport. -Dave Date: Wed, 14 Jan 1998 16:50:56 -0800 (PST) To: Moped Mailing List Subject: Re: How To Make Your Moped Live Longer > Date: Wed, 14 Jan 1998 00:27:39 -0500 > To: daugava@nothnbut.net > From: 6828t@bright.net > Subject: Re: How To Make Your Moped Live Longer > > > I just have one to add to the list as of now, make sure that you us a good brand > of gas ( no alcohol in gas) Myself I run high test gas at least 92 octane. > Thank You > Bob Taylor Why no alchohol in the gas? Here in Washiongton, it's just about impossible to avoid- especially with the winterized, oxegynated fuels we are mandated to use. Many of those use ethanol and I understand that the MTBE that the others use behave a lot like alchohol in the fuel. -Dave Date: Wed, 14 Jan 1998 20:38:07 EST To: daugava@nothnbut.net From: MaytagTwin@aol.com Subject: Re: How To Make Your Moped Live Longer In a message dated 98-01-14 18:44:56 EST, you write: << > > Who can add to this list? Who can point out any problems I have missed? > > Thanks! > > Phil > Philip.Kuhl@ping.be >> Something I have found on two stroke Lambretta motor scooters, is that the spark plug can grow a "whisker" between the center and outside electrodes which kills the spark. The machine would be running down the road quite well and then loose all power. Careful examination of the plug would find the whisker and, when it is knocked out simply by sliding a match book cover over the center electrode, the machine would run again. I haven't had that problem with mopeds, but, it might happen and can make you wonder but if you check it early on, right after you see if there is still gas in the tank, you can save some time. Carry a spare plug, always a good rule. Ron Carroll maytagtwin@aol.com Date: Wed, 14 Jan 1998 12:19:04 -0800 To: daugava@nothnbut.net From: proof@idt.net Subject: Re: Rules/Regs daugava@nothnbut.net wrote: > > ************************************************* > Date: Wed, 14 Jan 1998 07:26:10 EST > To: daugava@nothnbut.net > From: Huvz@aol.com > Subject: Re: Rules/Regs > > I would avoid chaining it to a no parking sign. You really dont want to > invite a debate > with the law. Maybe you can legally, but you better carry a copy of the > regulaitons in your pocket that says so. > Godd Luck Scott H I park my ped on no parking signs all the time. I think there is something woderfully ironic about locking a moped to a no parking sign. Yes it might be illegal but no one has ever given me a problem with it. I find that my moped is so innocent looking that it disarms anyone who is all high and mighty about obeying the law. If anyone approaches me it is usually to find out where they can buy a ped too! Anyway to the 15 year old kid - dont get the wrong idea - you must lock a ped to something. You can not just leave it parked on the street like a motorcycle. My tomos only weighs 110 pounds. Someone could easily steal that. Get a big U lock or another good one (but expensive) is the Viro square link chain lock. Date: Wed, 14 Jan 1998 12:25:28 -0800 To: daugava@nothnbut.net From: proof@idt.net Subject: Kinetic Anybody out there have a kinetic moped? I am curious about how they are. What's your impressions? Date: Wed, 14 Jan 1998 22:30:27 -0700 (MST) To: Subject: Re: BUILDING NEW SEMI-MOPED >************************************************* >Date: Wed, 14 Jan 1998 23:07:06 +0100 >To: "Peter Staal" > > > >-----Oorspronkelijk bericht----- >Van: daugava@nothnbut.net >BUILDING SEMI-MOPEDS > > >************************************************* >Date: Sun, 11 Jan 1998 21:15:01 GMT >To: daugava@nothnbut.net >From: jback@nilenet.com > After years of restoring Whizzers (and Cushman Eagles) my partners and I are now building 3 protoype motorized bicycles based upon the 26" Men's Schwinn Classic Cruiser (somewhat modified) and the new Honda GX31 4-stroke engines coupled with a few repro Whizzer components. Technically, these aren't mopeds as they will be 1.5 hp pull start/centrifugal clutch units, capable of 20-25mph max. We would like to correspond with anyone who's ever attempted to build their own motorized bikes, anyones who's attempting to obtain OEM or DOT certification, etc. I'd love to share my experiences in building a better motorized mousetrap with anyone interested. Jack Backstreet BBH Inc. Note: My email is back up after 8 days of whacked out service and I apologize to anyone who's written me and not heard back (94 emails were deleted by necessity). Date: Wed, 14 Jan 1998 22:40:05 -0700 (MST) To: Subject: Re: WHIZZER MOTOR CO. IS DEAD >************************************************* >Date: Wed, 14 Jan 1998 00:27:39 -05 >> ************************************************* >> Date: Sun, 11 Jan 1998 21:15:01 GMT >> To: daugava@nothnbut.net >> From: jback@nilenet.com >> Subject: WHIZZER MOTOR CO. IS DEAD! > > I spoke with Memory Lane (Perryburg, OH) today and discovered that the Whizzer Motor Co. is defunct. Apparently this was no great surprise to anyone that had seen their repro Whizzer (most ad photos featured 'real' Whizzers, but in actuality the repros had 1-piece head/cyl castings, Mikuni carb, etc. ...no offense to Mikuni, but the execution was poor at best). Jack. Date: Thu, 15 Jan 1998 00:57:21 EST To: daugava@shell.nothnbut.net From: Samurai29@aol.com Subject: Re: hello In a message dated 98-01-15 00:25:23 EST, you write: << and why they differ from other mopeds You mean, you want to write such article yourself or to read about Puch Maxi's differences ? >> hello this is chris, thank you for writing back, i mean abot the puch is that i heard it is the best moped there is. i've had mine for almost 1 year. I don't know much about the maxi sport, thank you chris Date: Wed, 14 Jan 1998 13:34:30 -0800 To: daugava@nothnbut.net From: proof@idt.net Subject: Re: Best out there daugava@nothnbut.net wrote: > > ************************************************* > Date: Wed, 14 Jan 1998 19:19:58 EST > To: daugava@nothnbut.net > From: Madd696@aol.com > Subject: Best out there > > Who are the best moped makers in the US (east coast) what is the best model? > Are they hard to maintain and keep in good shape? Are they worth buying for > two to three years of use? Jeez - east coast even. There are NO moped makers in the US. The US only produces software. The main moped makers are in Japan, China, India, Slovenia. A moped should last years as long as u give it oil and new spark plugs Date: Wed, 14 Jan 1998 22:55:56 -1000 To: Subject: Tank Pads and badges 1967 Puch 250 restoration. Do you know where I can get tank knee pads = and badges? =20 Best regards, =20 Kevin J. McDonald Date: Thu, 15 Jan 1998 09:26:45 EST To: daugava@nothnbut.net From: AaronM428@aol.com Subject: Re: How To Make Your Moped Live Longer In a message dated 98-01-14 18:44:56 EST, you write: << Myself I run high test gas at least 92 octane. >> Me too, the manual for Tomos said to use 92 octane, I think that is the European rating, but I'm not taking chances. Date: Thu, 15 Jan 1998 09:29:33 EST To: daugava@nothnbut.net From: AaronM428@aol.com Subject: Re: Rules/Regs In a message dated 98-01-14 18:50:21 EST, you write: << I would avoid chaining it to a no parking sign. You really dont want to invite a debate with the law. Maybe you can legally, but you better carry a copy of the regulaitons in your pocket that says so. >> In Ohio mopeds must use parking spaces. I know it is stupid, but that's what I was told when I got my license. I doubt anyone would ticket me for putting it in a bike rack though. Date: Thu, 15 Jan 1998 10:27:53 -0500 To: daugava@nothnbut.net From: DWCarpenter@webtv.net Subject: Inner tubes and ither stuff! I am wondering if tubes are available for my 79 JCPenney Swinger? The tubes are a strange 21x2 size..... Second, I saw an interesting moped last night, it was a fairly modern looking bike with "Indian" on the seat and if was labeled as a 4 stroke. Very nice bike! Is that made by THE Indian comapny? Don Carpenter http://www.axs2000.net/donc My fast loading (if not recently updated) Liner and Cruise Page (and other stuff too) Date: Thu, 15 Jan 1998 11:06:24 EST To: daugava@nothnbut.net From: SUPRDAVE@aol.com Subject: Re: Rules/Regs In a message dated 98-01-15 10:20:21 EST, you write: << In Ohio mopeds must use parking spaces. I know it is stupid, but that's what I was told when I got my license. I doubt anyone would ticket me for putting it in a bike rack though. >> I would never use a parking space for either my moped or my 50c scooter. both are so small one person could put it in the back of a truck in 30 seconds! i usually park it off to the side of big stores, or in a bike rack. if that is not possible, i run a cable through both wheels and lock it so they can't roll. not foolproof, but might discourage some. david Date: Thu, 15 Jan 1998 11:50:45 -0500 To: daugava@nothnbut.net From: paltron@interlog.com Subject: Re: oil+gas. daugava@nothnbut.net wrote: > > ************************************************* > Date: Wed, 14 Jan 1998 09:11:27 -0500 > To: daugava@nothnbut.net > From: 6828t@bright.net > Subject: Re: oil+gas. > > Try to find a real two stroke oil to mix for your gas. Don't know if you got my > other posting, I used a motor to mix just one tank of gas in my husky chain saw, ( > owners manual said the same as yours) I then ran the saw oh less say 4 more tanks > of gas ( with 2 stroke oil) and the saw seized up. I use all brands of saw weed > eaters mopeds cut timber for a living, that was the only saw that ever gave me any > trouble. I fill that it was the 1 tank of gas that caused the trouble. Bottom line > us mix oil and a good brand of gas ( no alcohol in gas) plus I us high test 92 > octane fuel. > Thank You > Bob Taylor Here's my 2 cents on the subject: Moped engines are basically coming in two types: entire aluminum (or light alloy) cyclinder (most) or aluminum with a cast iron sleeve (Puch). The latter is a lot more sensitive to the presence of oil in the mixture and also tends to seize up much faster. At the same time, they let go on their own (as the iron retracts) unlike the all-alu jugs you have to take apart. The mixture ratio is less important as many believe, more depends on the quality of oil used. Small engines rev very high (5,500-rpm or so) and proper coating of the cylinder wall is important. Standard motor oil breaks down in a 2-stroke engine fairly quickly, so does so-called "small engine 2-stroke oil". You need high viscosity 2-stroke oil specifically made for motorcycle engines, like Motul, or the new synthetic Red Line. I agree with Rob on the need for good quality gas. I suggest Super simply because of the way it is manufactured (the so-called "crack" process instead of slow distillation) because it is much less likely to contain water or other contaminants. I also suggest here to forget about factory-suggested ratios and the use of the gas cap insert as a mixer tool. Generally speaking, a 40:1 ratio is OK for all older mopeds if good quality oil and gas is used. You also have to be conscious of the spark plug. There is a strong fluctuation in quality and (hopefully I won't be sued for this) Champion plugs are not fairing too well; we had to return batch after batch. Best so far we found was the NGK B6HS for all. Don't use lawnmower or chainsaw plugs. There. PA Date: Thu, 15 Jan 1998 11:09:25 -0600 To: "Mailing List" Subject: Fw: Peugeot Sport 2/3 speed (vitesse) ------- reply to dan johnson I am trying to find a link or other information regarding the Peugeot Sport mopeds that were manufactured during the 1960s. While living in France, I owned one of these bikes as a child and would like to find another for old times sake. I believe that they were imported into the US for a short while. I'd appreciate any assistance that anyone might lend. Dan Johnson Date: Thu, 15 Jan 1998 11:49:56 -0600 To: "Mailing List" Subject: Fw: News about Whizzer > Hello: > > Nostalgia is no longer the manufacturer of Whizzers. A brand new Whizzer of > higher quality will be introduced later this year. > > Until earlier this year I was the registered owner of the Whizzer Trademark. > Due to disabilty I had to give up attempting to produce a quality Whizzer > product. I sold the trademark and the new company also purchased the > Nostalgia inventory. > > The product produced by Nostalgia Cycle was not worthy of the Whizzer name. > > I'll let you know when the new Whizzer becomes available and furnish the > address of the manufacturer. In the meantime you may wish to remove the > outdated information. > > Robert M. Zavor > Former President of Whizzer Motorbike Co. Date: Thu, 15 Jan 1998 02:33:42 -0800 To: daugava@nothnbut.net From: proof@idt.net Subject: Re: Rules/Regs daugava@nothnbut.net wrote: > > ************************************************* > Date: Thu, 15 Jan 1998 09:29:33 EST > To: daugava@nothnbut.net > From: AaronM428@aol.com > Subject: Re: Rules/Regs > > In a message dated 98-01-14 18:50:21 EST, you write: > > << I would avoid chaining it to a no parking sign. You really dont want to > invite a debate > with the law. Maybe you can legally, but you better carry a copy of the > regulaitons in your pocket that says so. >> > > In Ohio mopeds must use parking spaces. I know it is stupid, but that's what > I was told when I got my license. I doubt anyone would ticket me for putting > it in a bike rack though. I also chain mine to a bike rack right outside a police station here in nj. Date: Thu, 15 Jan 1998 15:23:25 EST To: daugava@nothnbut.net From: GeeeTeee@aol.com Subject: Re: oil+gas. I would say never use 4 cycle in a two stroke. My friend did this in his honda and it clogged everything up in the carb. Date: Thu, 15 Jan 1998 15:27:16 EST To: daugava@nothnbut.net From: GeeeTeee@aol.com Subject: Re: Peugeots try cleaningout the needle seat in the carb Date: Thu, 15 Jan 1998 15:35:49 EST To: daugava@nothnbut.net From: GeeeTeee@aol.com Subject: Re: How To Make Your Moped Live Longer can adding extra oil to the mixture help???? Date: Fri, 16 Jan 1998 18:07:21 -0500 To: daugava@nothnbut.net From: a.ghosh@utoronto.ca Subject: Re: oil+gas. daugava@nothnbut.net wrote: > > ************************************************* > Date: Thu, 15 Jan 1998 11:50:45 -0500 > To: daugava@nothnbut.net > From: paltron@interlog.com > Subject: Re: oil+gas. > > daugava@nothnbut.net wrote: > > > > ************************************************* > > Date: Wed, 14 Jan 1998 09:11:27 -0500 > > To: daugava@nothnbut.net > > From: 6828t@bright.net > > Subject: Re: oil+gas. > > > > Try to find a real two stroke oil to mix for your gas. Don't know if you got my > > other posting, I used a motor to mix just one tank of gas in my husky chain saw, ( > > owners manual said the same as yours) I then ran the saw oh less say 4 more tanks > > of gas ( with 2 stroke oil) and the saw seized up. I use all brands of saw weed > > eaters mopeds cut timber for a living, that was the only saw that ever gave me any > > trouble. I fill that it was the 1 tank of gas that caused the trouble. Bottom line > > us mix oil and a good brand of gas ( no alcohol in gas) plus I us high test 92 > > octane fuel. > > Thank You > > Bob Taylor > Here's my 2 cents on the subject: > Moped engines are basically coming in two types: entire aluminum (or > light alloy) cyclinder (most) or aluminum with a cast iron sleeve > (Puch). The latter is a lot more sensitive to the presence of oil in the > mixture and also tends to seize up much faster. At the same time, they > let go on their own (as the iron retracts) unlike the all-alu jugs you > have to take apart. > The mixture ratio is less important as many believe, more depends on the > quality of oil used. Small engines rev very high (5,500-rpm or so) and > proper coating of the cylinder wall is important. > Standard motor oil breaks down in a 2-stroke engine fairly quickly, so > does so-called "small engine 2-stroke oil". You need high viscosity > 2-stroke oil specifically made for motorcycle engines, like Motul, or > the new synthetic Red Line. > I agree with Rob on the need for good quality gas. I suggest Super > simply because of the way it is manufactured (the so-called "crack" > process instead of slow distillation) because it is much less likely to > contain water or other contaminants. > I also suggest here to forget about factory-suggested ratios and the use > of the gas cap insert as a mixer tool. Generally speaking, a 40:1 ratio > is OK for all older mopeds if good quality oil and gas is used. > You also have to be conscious of the spark plug. There is a strong > fluctuation in quality and (hopefully I won't be sued for this) Champion > plugs are not fairing too well; we had to return batch after batch. > Best so far we found was the NGK B6HS for all. Don't use lawnmower or > chainsaw plugs. ya, the champion L86 that's the factory rec. seemed pretty cheap. but it worked. the NGK b6HS it probably the best i'd say to. Date: Thu, 15 Jan 1998 22:30:03 +0100 To: "Peter Staal" Subject: Re: How To Make Your Moped Live Longer -----Oorspronkelijk bericht----- Van: daugava@nothnbut.net Onderwerp: Re: How To Make Your Moped Live Longer >************************************************* >Date: Wed, 14 Jan 1998 16:50:56 -0800 (PST) >To: Moped Mailing List >Subject: Re: How To Make Your Moped Live Longer > > >> Date: Wed, 14 Jan 1998 00:27:39 -0500 >> To: daugava@nothnbut.net >> From: 6828t@bright.net >> Subject: Re: How To Make Your Moped Live Longer >> >> >> I just have one to add to the list as of now, make sure that you us a good brand >> of gas ( no alcohol in gas) Myself I run high test gas at least 92 octane. >> Thank You >> Bob Taylor >Why no alchohol in the gas? Here in Washiongton, it's just about >impossible to avoid- especially with the winterized, oxegynated fuels we >are mandated to use. Many of those use ethanol and I understand that the >MTBE that the others use behave a lot like alchohol in the fuel. >-Dave > Nothing wrong with a little additives, while racing they use methanol to get a higher rpm but don't over do it, most mopeds aren't designed for it. It doesn't exclude the use any thing else a car can run on. leaded 92 / 96 /98 /unleaded/ lighter fluid / quart gasoline :3 quarters gas/ petrol/ gas mixes, LPG, starter fluid. it all runs, (simple rule to determine if it is runnable, put a little in a bowl, and try to ignite it with a match, by throwing it in the bowl, if it didn't lightup (burn) , it has a to high flame point (like gasoline) or a to low evaporating effect (parafine),) one better than the other, but always use good mixing oil ! (only in case of emrgency offcourse, always try to use the usual stuff if available!) Peter. --now we are realy off topic now :)-- > > Date: Thu, 15 Jan 1998 22:35:49 +0100 To: "Peter Staal" Subject: Re: Tank Pads and badges -----Oorspronkelijk bericht----- Van: daugava@nothnbut.net Onderwerp: Tank Pads and badges >************************************************* >Date: Wed, 14 Jan 1998 22:55:56 -1000 >To: >Subject: Tank Pads and badges > > >1967 Puch 250 restoration. Do you know where I can get tank knee pads = >and badges? >=20 >Best regards, >=20 >Kevin J. McDonald > > > Try Rinke's... At : http://home.concepts.nl/~staal/xxparts.html ---------------------------------------------------------------------- Date: Thu, 15 Jan 1998 16:57:36 -0500 To: daugava@nothnbut.net From: paltron@interlog.com Subject: Re: Fw: News about Whizzer daugava@nothnbut.net wrote: > > ************************************************* > Date: Thu, 15 Jan 1998 11:49:56 -0600 > To: "Mailing List" > Subject: Fw: News about Whizzer > > > Hello: > > > > Nostalgia is no longer the manufacturer of Whizzers. A brand new Whizzer > of > > higher quality will be introduced later this year. > > > > Until earlier this year I was the registered owner of the Whizzer > Trademark. > > Due to disabilty I had to give up attempting to produce a quality Whizzer > > product. I sold the trademark and the new company also purchased the > > Nostalgia inventory. > > > > The product produced by Nostalgia Cycle was not worthy of the Whizzer > name. > > > > I'll let you know when the new Whizzer becomes available and furnish the > > address of the manufacturer. In the meantime you may wish to remove the > > outdated information. > > > > Robert M. Zavor > > Former President of Whizzer Motorbike Co. Where can I see a pic of the "old" whizzer? Date: Thu, 15 Jan 1998 16:57:48 -0500 To: daugava@nothnbut.net From: paltron@interlog.com Subject: Re: Inner tubes and ither stuff! daugava@nothnbut.net wrote: > > ************************************************* > Date: Thu, 15 Jan 1998 10:27:53 -0500 > To: daugava@nothnbut.net > From: DWCarpenter@webtv.net > Subject: Inner tubes and ither stuff! > > I am wondering if tubes are available for my 79 JCPenney Swinger? The > tubes are a strange 21x2 size..... > > Second, I saw an interesting moped last night, it was a fairly modern > looking bike with "Indian" on the seat and if was labeled as a 4 stroke. > Very nice bike! Is that made by THE Indian comapny? > > Don Carpenter > http://www.axs2000.net/donc > > My fast loading (if not recently updated) Liner and Cruise Page (and > other stuff too) First, tire sizing system has changed a few years ago. 2x21 is today 2 or 2 1/4x15, 2x23 is 2 1/4x 17. Second, the moped you saw is Indian only by name. After the successive bankruptcies, takeovers, etc. the last company (AMI) put together that thing mostly from parts made in Italy. It is called the AMI-50 Indian and for its rarity alone is a collector's item. Date: Thu, 15 Jan 1998 18:29:29 -0500 To: daugava@nothnbut.net From: 6828t@bright.net Subject: Re: How To Make Your Moped Live Longer Ethanol is just another form of good old alcohol. I live in Ohio and have no problem finding gas that does not contain ethanol. I guess I should call it ethanol so people don't get confused. I did not know that they force you to buy fuel with the 10% ethanol in Washington. I still would try to find it some where especially if you have the older mopeds before ethanol. I do not know the real tech end of not using it. Just know that the factory refused to do warranty for a burned piston. Said that it was because I used a fuel with ethanol, had to check fuel to prove no ethanol. Personally that is another of a reason for me. If someone know different and can show way I will be glad to here from them. Thank You Bob Taylor daugava@nothnbut.net wrote: > ************************************************* > Date: Wed, 14 Jan 1998 16:50:56 -0800 (PST) > To: Moped Mailing List > Subject: Re: How To Make Your Moped Live Longer > > > Date: Wed, 14 Jan 1998 00:27:39 -0500 > > To: daugava@nothnbut.net > > From: 6828t@bright.net > > Subject: Re: How To Make Your Moped Live Longer > > > > > > I just have one to add to the list as of now, make sure that you us a good brand > > of gas ( no alcohol in gas) Myself I run high test gas at least 92 octane. > > Thank You > > Bob Taylor > Why no alchohol in the gas? Here in Washiongton, it's just about > impossible to avoid- especially with the winterized, oxegynated fuels we > are mandated to use. Many of those use ethanol and I understand that the > MTBE that the others use behave a lot like alchohol in the fuel. > -Dave Date: Thu, 15 Jan 1998 18:03:43 -0800 To: agner@erols.com From: agner@erols.com Subject: Re: Rules/Regs daugava@nothnbut.net wrote: > > ************************************************* > Date: Tue, 13 Jan 1998 19:59:49 EST > To: daugava@nothnbut.net > From: Madd696@aol.com > Subject: Rules/Regs > > Hi > I live in NJ and my dad is getting me a moped for my birthday in July (turning > 15) I was wondering what type of a test do they administer(written or driving > or both) and what is the best moped to buy that will last for about 4 years > (my bro will be driving it after me). Also, do cops hassle you and I heard you > can park it and chain it anywhere even a no parking sign is this true? > Thanx a lot Go to the library and ask the librarian to show you the moped statutes in NJSA. You'll see that they may be operated on bicycle paths; yes, I chain mine up in NJ on bicycle racks (including the county library where there is always a cop around), and it's accepted. Cops don't hassle me. As for what kind, I bought a 1980 Vespa two years ago, and it serves my faithfully. If I were to buy a new one, from what I've read on this listserv, I'd consider a Kinetic (which apparently is based on a Vespa design) since Sam's Club and a few dealers have been selling them for $599 new. In fact, the national importer is Cosmopolitan Motors (I think) in Hatsboro, PA, a suburb of Philadelphia, which I think also is selling them for about $600, though I don't remember the exact price. John of NJ Date: Thu, 15 Jan 1998 19:18:26 EST To: daugava@nothnbut.net From: Huvz@aol.com Subject: Re: Fw: Peugeot Sport 2/3 speed (vitesse) Dan, There are some Pugeot mopeds around, and you are in the right place to find one. If you dont learn of one right away, I would suggest that you post a message here periodically. This bunch is sure to turn one up somewhere. Where are you located? Scott H Date: Thu, 15 Jan 1998 19:38:53 EST To: daugava@nothnbut.net From: Huvz@aol.com Subject: Re: Inner tubes and ither stuff! Don, I have a JC Penny Swinger I am parting out. Let me know if you need any parts. I will check the tire size, although I wouldnt bet on the tubes being very good. Indian... toward the end of the line, the Indian name appeared on all kinds of things, even sewing machines. So it is an Indian bike, but could have been manufactured in a variety of different countries ( India, Tiawan, Indonesia, England.. Many things bearing the Indian name could turn out to be of much less quality than the american made bikes that are so popular (and valuable). Many people believe this is what led to the demise of the Indian name. It is worth researching, might be a fun piece to have. scott H Date: Thu, 15 Jan 1998 19:08:45 -0600 (CST) To: cyclepro@evansville.net From: cyclepro@evansville.net Subject: Re: BUILDING NEW SEMI-MOPED On Thu, 15 Jan, daugava@nothnbut.net wrote... >************************************************* >>BUILDING SEMI-MOPEDS >> >> >>************************************************* >>Date: Sun, 11 Jan 1998 21:15:01 GMT >>To: daugava@nothnbut.net >>From: jback@nilenet.com >> > After years of restoring Whizzers (and Cushman Eagles) my partners and I >are now building 3 protoype motorized bicycles based upon the 26" Men's >Schwinn Classic Cruiser (somewhat modified) and the new Honda GX31 4-stroke >engines coupled with a few repro Whizzer components. >Technically, these aren't mopeds as they will be 1.5 hp pull >start/centrifugal clutch units, capable of 20-25mph max. > Sounds liKe an interesting project- what is the cc's of the GX31? >We would like to correspond with anyone who's ever attempted to build their >own motorized bikes, anyones who's attempting to obtain OEM or DOT >certification, etc. I'd love to share my experiences in building a better motorized mousetrap with anyone interested. > > >Jack Backstreet >BBH Inc. On the certification issue. How many of these will you build a year and where do you plan to sell them ? Which state will you build them in. I have looked into this with regards to building custom motorcycles and found that there were ways around it in the state of Kentucky as long as I don't exceed 10 units a year. If I exceed that I needed a State manufacturing licenses, and to get that I needed EPA, DMV, DOT certification. I have knowledge from others how much that can cost. I see that your circumstances differ since you are not building the frame and that type vehicle is exempt from licensing & registration in some states. Honda has probably already certified the engine. Keep us posted on what you run into. ......Greg Dougan > >Note: My email is back up after 8 days of whacked out service and I >apologize to anyone who's written me and not heard back (94 emails were >deleted by necessity). > > > Date: Thu, 15 Jan 1998 20:13:01 EST To: daugava@nothnbut.net From: Samurai29@aol.com Subject: Re: Rules/Regs In a message dated 98-01-15 10:20:21 EST, you write: << < I would avoid chaining it to a no parking sign. You really dont want to invite a debate with the law. Maybe you can legally, but you better carry a copy of the regulaitons in your pocket that says so. >> In Ohio mopeds must use parking spaces. I know it is stupid, but that's what I was told when I got my license. I doubt anyone would ticket me for putting it in a bike rack though. >> yes i do put my moped in a bike rack i don't hink it's illigal, if u can ride in the bike lane w/ a moped you could to, and it's half bike Date: Thu, 15 Jan 1998 20:09:56 EST To: daugava@nothnbut.net From: Samurai29@aol.com Subject: Re: Rules/Regs In a message dated 98-01-15 10:15:51 EST, you write: << I park my ped on no parking signs all the time. I think there is something woderfully ironic about locking a moped to a no parking sign. Yes it might be illegal but no one has ever given me a problem with it. I find that my moped is so innocent looking that it disarms anyone who is all high and mighty about obeying the law. If anyone approaches me it is usually to find out where they can buy a ped too! Anyway to the 15 year old kid - dont get the wrong idea - you must lock a ped to something. You can not just leave it parked on the street like a motorcycle. My tomos only weighs 110 pounds. Someone could easily steal that. Get a big U lock or another good one (but expensive) is the Viro square link chain lock. >> Thank u for answering. I don't have a a perment to ride a moped but my parents don't maind it's not like they don't care about me but, i can go were i want and i cant wait for my moped perment!! people make fun of me at school and on the street what should i do? Date: Thu, 15 Jan 1998 22:28:47 -0800 To: Subject: Re: Best out there Tomos is! -----Original Message----- From: daugava@nothnbut.net Subject: Best out there >************************************************* >Date: Wed, 14 Jan 1998 19:19:58 EST >To: daugava@nothnbut.net >From: Madd696@aol.com >Subject: Best out there > > >Who are the best moped makers in the US (east coast) what is the best model? >Are they hard to maintain and keep in good shape? Are they worth buying for >two to three years of use? > > > Date: Fri, 16 Jan 1998 08:17:50 +-200 To: "'Moped Mailing List'" Subject: Joining the list ------ =_NextPart_000_01BD2257.5DCDA7E0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable I would like to join your list as I have had a moped for years, (as well = as other larger bikes), and am becoming increasingly more interested in = mopeds. I would like to know what is happening out there. I have always = restored my own bikes and may be able to help someone. I am from Cape = Town in South Africa. Regards Andrew Rodger Date: Fri, 16 Jan 1998 00:54:37 -0700 (MST) To: Subject: Re: Fw: News about Whizzer >************************************************* >Date: Thu, 15 Jan 1998 11:49:56 -0600 >To: "Mailing List" >Subject: Fw: News about Whizzer > > >> Hello: >> >> Nostalgia is no longer the manufacturer of Whizzers. A brand new Whizzer >of >> higher quality will be introduced later this year. >> >> Until earlier this year I was the registered owner of the Whizzer >Trademark. >> Due to disabilty I had to give up attempting to produce a quality Whizzer >> product. I sold the trademark and the new company also purchased the >> Nostalgia inventory. >> >> The product produced by Nostalgia Cycle was not worthy of the Whizzer >name. >> >> I'll let you know when the new Whizzer becomes available and furnish the >> address of the manufacturer. In the meantime you may wish to remove the >> outdated information. >> >> Robert M. Zavor >> Former President of Whizzer Motorbike Co. > > >Robert: I am really interested in finding out more about your 'improved' Whizzer---- It will take some effort to get the bad taste out of people's mouths over Nostalgia's version. Please let me know when/who will be manufacturing them! I would like to correspond with you re: a few Whiz peripheral parts I need on a regular basis; thanx... Jack Backstreet BBH Inc. 15072 E Mississippi Ave #33 Aurora, CO 80012 Fax: (303) 627-8032 Date: Fri, 16 Jan 1998 01:22:08 -0700 (MST) To: Subject: Re: Inner tubes and ither stuff! >************************************************* >Date: Thu, 15 Jan 1998 10:27:53 -0500 >To: daugava@nothnbut.net >From: DWCarpenter@webtv.net >Subject: Inner tubes and ither stuff! > > >I am wondering if tubes are available for my 79 JCPenney Swinger? The >tubes are a strange 21x2 size..... > >Second, I saw an interesting moped last night, it was a fairly modern >looking bike with "Indian" on the seat and if was labeled as a 4 stroke. >Very nice bike! Is that made by THE Indian comapny? > >Don Carpenter >http://www.axs2000.net/donc > >My fast loading (if not recently updated) Liner and Cruise Page (and >other stuff too) > > >The Indian trademark is a legal nightmare that has caused more than one person to go bankrupt in an effort to revive it since Royal Enfield bought it from the original Springfield, MA manufacturer in the mid 1950's. Floyd (Oooh Andy!) Clymer secured the trademark around 1968 after RE gave up building wierd next generation Chiefs, Scouts and Braves (looked really British). Clymer set out to do minibikes and later mopeds in the early 70's, although he also built some rather interesting behemouth cycles in Europe and imported them in relatively small numbers. Any Indians are collectible! The minibikes sold new for under $300.00 (I had one in 1971) and fetch upwards of $700 today in decent shape. The mopeds less so, but are still worth a premium over, say a similar Puch or Peugot, just for the Indian name. FYI: The recent Indian venture in NM went bust due to several factors, but mainly due to the owner being dragged into court and being found not to hold the trademark (owned by some shady foreigner back east with a history of bad credit and lofty ideas who uses the Indian name for high-end apparel logos). Very interesting story that's too long to go into here, but millions were lost in this latest attempt to revive the grand old Indian name. Date: Sat, 17 Jan 1998 16:57:21 EST To: daugava@nothnbut.net From: AaronM428@aol.com Subject: Re: Rules/Regs In a message dated 98-01-15 10:15:51 EST, you write: << Anyway to the 15 year old kid - dont get the wrong idea - you must lock a ped to something. You can not just leave it parked on the street like a motorcycle. My tomos only weighs 110 pounds. Someone could easily steal that. Get a big U lock or another good one (but expensive) is the Viro square link chain lock. >> I never lock my ped to anything. First I live in a small town, no roberies in like 3-4 years, second, the steering lock is sufficient to detour the other 14-15 year old "joy riders". All I really need is that type of "Hands-off" lock. If I rode into Toledo though I would definately use a lock. Date: Sat, 17 Jan 1998 17:01:47 EST To: daugava@nothnbut.net From: AaronM428@aol.com Subject: Re: oil+gas. In a message dated 98-01-15 13:41:53 EST, you write: << Best so far we found was the NGK B6HS for all. >> I use NGK B5HS plugs in my Tomos. Is the B5HS up or down one heat range from the B6HS? I have no engine overheating problems, nor does the plug foul, so I assume that the B5HS is OK. I was told not to go up a heat range if the current plug works properly. Date: Sun, 18 Jan 1998 11:12:04 -0500 To: daugava@nothnbut.net From: DWCarpenter@webtv.net Subject: Puch I just got an 80 Puch moped from a guy at a motorcycle swapmeet for $30. The thing apparently runs, and is all there. I am assuming it is a good deal, once it is painted and cleaned up! If anyone has any general tips for me, please feel free to chime in.... Don Carpenter http://www.axs2000.net/donc My fast loading (if not recently updated) Liner and Cruise Page (and other stuff too) Date: Sun, 18 Jan 1998 11:49:47 -0500 To: moped mail Subject: Parts? Hi everyone, I have an old Trac moped that someone gave to me. It doesn't run though. It needs a new ignition coil among other things. Does anyone know of a good place to get used parts?? Thankyou, Jlove Date: Sun, 18 Jan 1998 11:04:56 -0700 (MST) To: Subject: Re: Fw: News about Whizzer >************************************************* >Date: Thu, 15 Jan 1998 11:49:56 -0600 >To: "Mailing List" >Subject: WANT MORE INFO ASAP > Dear Robert; I wrote you a few days ago and I just wanted to keep in touch. I am designing a motorized bike myself after years of restoring various Whizzers (4 so far, although I'm now down to owning just one, a 1948 BF Goodrich [Schwinn] H-model). I have always been fascinated by strange contraptions and less than ordinary means of getting from point A to Pittsburgh.... my first car being a 1958 DKW 2-stroke (then licensed as a motorcycle in OR [1976] with a helmet law in effect and a confused police force in town)--- now owning a '57 Studebaker and an early 1930 Model A Speedster that I drive nearly every day. But my heart, soul and lower intestines belong to light motorcycles and scooters (being spoiled rotten by a 1962 Cushman Silver Eagle). I love Whizzers, but have to admit I'd rather go 55 on my Eagle than 35 on a Whiz... but they sure look cool! I'm presently a police officer and my goal is to open up a scooter shop near Denver University within the next 3 years. I am working with an experience machinist in designing a Honda-based 4-stroke power unit utilizing a few repro'd Whiz components. I saw the repro Whizzer and was sorely disappointed by the execution (not to mention the blatant false advertising; vintage Whizzer pix & all). My bike (tentatively called the BAX) will be mounted in a Schwinn cruiser frame in standard (non-sprung) and deluxe (springer fork, cycle lock + aux tank) versions. Both will include a modern Stermy-Archer expander brake. I plan on developing several appearance options (fishtail exhaust, mini-spot lites) to compliment the bikes. I am still working out some minor engineering details as to belt profiles and belt clearance but have worked out the main problem of a clutch shaft adapter (expensive problem, incidentally). The Honda engine meets smog in all 50 states and will propel a 185lb guy about 23mph at sea level... no speed demon for sure but adequate. I am interested in your resusitation of Whizzer and would like to obtain dealer info---- I see you having a big hurdle overcoming the hundreds of Whizzer owners out there knowing about the earlier machine's lousy reputation--- and feel you must return to the seperate barrel/(best w/hi-finned) head design--- getting as close to the H or J series as possible. Carburation is problematical as Mikuni is the most established mini-carb producer around, which sickens a lot of Tillotson purists. I am extremely curious how you're going to overcome these problems, not to mention smog certs, DOT approval, etc. Are you planning to do any bi-light/generator reproduction? Who's making your sheves? For Chrissake's keep in touch, you get going and I want to be a dealer!!! Jack Backstreet 19004 E Chenango Cir Aurora, CO 80015-4948 Fax: (303) 627-8032. Date: Sun, 18 Jan 1998 15:02:53 +0100 To: "Peter Staal" Subject: Fw: -----Oorspronkelijk bericht----- Van: Peter Staal !!!!!!!!!!! Datum: zaterdag 17 januari 1998 23:05 >-- >Loooking for information and parts for 1975 >Bombadier Puch Moped, in particular piston rings. >-- >hi, >Because you live in the US and i live in holland (europe) it would be hard >for me to tell if any thing is available in your neighbourhood. Therefore we >have in this cyberspace the : Moped Mailing List with at least 80% U.s. >members, so they will be glad to help you out, you can reach it by the link >on my home page (facts) (big green / pink) >i'll forward your mail to the list and ask if they'll answer it to you >personaly, in case you would not be interested in joining the list (what >would be sorry for you , realy it is a good initiative for all moped drivers >outthere/here) >so hopefully this will answer your questions in the long run (tomorrow ?) ;) > Bye, Peter Staal >---------------------------------------------------------------------- >Email: staal@concepts.nl >Home: http://home.concepts.nl/~staal >--------------------------------------- >or you can try rinke's at my parts page : > > > http://home.concepts.nl/~staal/xxparts.html >---------------------------------------------------------------------- > > Date: Sun, 18 Jan 1998 18:56:24 +0100 To: "Peter Staal" Subject: Re: 70cc bore kit experiences -----Oorspronkelijk bericht----- Van: daugava@nothnbut.net Onderwerp: Re: 70cc bore kit experiences ************************************************* Date: Tue, 30 Dec 1997 21:42:38 -0800 To: daugava@nothnbut.net From: proof@idt.net Subject: Re: 70cc bore kit experiences > No trouble at all, > but this calc. was done with dutch gas prices and insurance, they are > relative high to the us ones i assume.... > ps. Ok yes I am aware of that. I have been to Holland 3 times. I usually stay in Haarlem. Since I have you here, let me ask you something else. I go to italy alot but sometimes fly into schiphol or brussels because i can get much cheaper fares to there. Then i use my eurail pass and take a nice ride down to italy. What i want to do one time is buy a used ped in Holland, ride down to italy and sell it in italy or maybe even ride it back. But the whole problem of registration/insurance is daunting to me as a foreigner. How feasible do you think this would be for a foreigner? Can i do the whole registration/insurance thing at the dealer. Mostly not, but registration is not needed, only insurance has to be accounted for. i'll investigate further for you how, and how much for insurance . I would bring my international driver license. needed to get on the road in holland, instead of a moped 'driverslicence' (certificaat) it is accepted. What about riding the ped across the borders? what borders ? dutch / german/austrian/italian can all be passed within the 'schengen' treaty so no heavy controls, some times on the highway an actionspot , but when driving the ole road no trouble expected, free travel within eec borders :) and technicaly the same rules for mopeds , so no conflict when crossing a border, use helmet , assurance (green card) don't make to much noise and you'll always get away with it. I would probably go via germany since i speak it a little and no french. The point would not be to get to italy cheaper or anything - it is to take a nice tour of the backroads. What does a new tomos targa lx go for in holland? u can tell me in guilders. about HFL 1700 = $ 850 but why a new one, you have to drive it in first, an oldie would bring you there too, and costs a lot less. when new a allrisk assurance is recomended here, btw 2 good moped locks, are no overdone necessity here ;( and can cost 100 hfl each. i don't know how adventury you are... Hey, while here you can always pass by for a drink ;) , i live in the south of holland so on the road to Rome ... Bye, Peter Staal ---------------------------------------------------------------------- Email: staal@concepts.nl Home: http://home.concepts.nl/~staal ---------------------------------------------------------------------- Date: Sun, 18 Jan 1998 16:46:09 EST To: daugava@nothnbut.net From: Jerky181@aol.com Subject: muffler Me and a buddy just got an old yamaha moped running again. Noise is a problem. Anyone recommend a quiet muffler? Thanks. Date: Sun, 18 Jan 1998 12:45:06 -0800 To: daugava@nothnbut.net From: proof@idt.net Subject: Re: Rules/Regs daugava@nothnbut.net wrote: > > ************************************************* > Date: Thu, 15 Jan 1998 20:09:56 EST > To: daugava@nothnbut.net > From: Samurai29@aol.com > Subject: Re: Rules/Regs > > In a message dated 98-01-15 10:15:51 EST, you write: > > << I park my ped on no parking signs all the time. I think there is > something woderfully ironic about locking a moped to a no parking sign. > Yes it might be illegal but no one has ever given me a problem with it. I > find that my moped is so innocent looking that it disarms anyone who is > all high and mighty about obeying the law. If anyone approaches me it is > usually to find out where they can buy a ped too! Anyway to the 15 year > old kid - dont get the wrong idea - you must lock a ped to something. You > can not just leave it parked on the street like a motorcycle. My tomos > only weighs 110 pounds. Someone could easily steal that. Get a big U lock > or another good one (but expensive) is the Viro square link chain lock. >> > Thank u for answering. I don't have a a perment to ride a moped but my parents > don't maind it's not like they don't care about me but, i can go were i want > and i cant wait for my moped perment!! people make fun of me at school and on > the street what should i do? you dont have any kind of permit at all?? Well that's different than the parking issue. I think you are taking a big risk - you might be jeopardizing your ability to get a permit if you do get caught - i'm not sure what would happen. About being made fun of. I am 31 years old and ride my ped all the time. I find people are curious about the bike - maybe you are misinterpreting people's fascination for being made fun of. I like to make fun of people who spend 20 or 30 thousand dollars for a 2+ ton machine to transport their 170 pound bodies around. Date: Sun, 18 Jan 1998 12:50:44 -0800 To: daugava@nothnbut.net From: proof@idt.net Subject: Re: Rules/Regs daugava@nothnbut.net wrote: > > ************************************************* > Date: Sat, 17 Jan 1998 16:57:21 EST > To: daugava@nothnbut.net > From: AaronM428@aol.com > Subject: Re: Rules/Regs > > In a message dated 98-01-15 10:15:51 EST, you write: > > << Anyway to the 15 year > old kid - dont get the wrong idea - you must lock a ped to something. You > can not just leave it parked on the street like a motorcycle. My tomos > only weighs 110 pounds. Someone could easily steal that. Get a big U lock > or another good one (but expensive) is the Viro square link chain lock. > >> > > I never lock my ped to anything. First I live in a small town, no roberies in > like 3-4 years, second, the steering lock is sufficient to detour the other > 14-15 year old "joy riders". All I really need is that type of "Hands-off" > lock. If I rode into Toledo though I would definately use a lock. wow thats amazing. I carry a kryptonite U lock and a viro square link lock all the time. Together they probably weigh 20 pounds! Probably knocks a couple miles per hour off my speed! Ahh the luxury of living in a small town. But remember it only takes one idiot one time to lose your ped. Date: Sun, 18 Jan 1998 12:59:40 -0800 To: daugava@nothnbut.net From: proof@idt.net Subject: Re: Fw: News about Whizzer daugava@nothnbut.net wrote: > > ************************************************* > Date: Sun, 18 Jan 1998 11:04:56 -0700 (MST) > To: |